T60 build. Finally.

[MissileCrisis]

Just bought the plywood today and it's some beautiful a/c fir that looks like a/b. Some warping but I plan to Dado the whole thing. Plan I'd to build it 20 inches wide (nominal as dad's may change that a fraction of an inch). I will be extra careful making the access panel for this one because of my t39 experience. Its the only part I'm worried about besides deciding where to put the four (4) Speakon jacks. I'm thinking two access panel style and two on the rear bottom. Offset to a side for a potential twin.

[MissileCrisis]

In Diagram 1 the side measurement of 9 3/4'' must be wrong, That piece is at an angle and the bottom distance is 9 3/4. Thus they both can't be right. Looking at the sketchup reaffirmed my suspicion, the distance to the higher piece (to the right side of the 30/60 panel) is actually 9 1/4''. Has anyone else run into this discrepancy? Bill tends to say refer to sketch up as being more accurate, so that is what I'll go by. Bill please look into this (what I believe to be a typo).

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

In Diagram 1 the side measurement of 9 3/4'' must be wrong

It's correct. The diagram was taken directly from the Sketchup model. You're looking at something incorrectly.

[Titanium Hand]

Access Panels....

Such a dark art and soo much anxiety surrounding their successful implementation. Really they are quite easy on the T60. A few tips I could give, as I've just completed my dual T60 build.

1)The 'Baffle Spacer' I felt that the width of this panel in the plans was somewhat ambiguous, however common sense would dictate the correct width to make this panel.
For me it only became apparent when it was too late - I obviously didn't read the plans enough

I feel the most convenient width would be between 1 and 1 1/8 of an inch narrower than the internal panel width This width would allow 1/2 inch and a bit, either end to accommodate the access panel flanges.

2) If you despise PL mess, before going anywhere near the access panel flanges with adhesive do some creative masking
By this I mean mask the exposed 12mm / 1/2 inch sides from the side panel, where the access panel was cut out from. Also mask the 20mm / 3/4 inch side of the flange pieces that you will ultimately fasten weather stripping to.
I found that I used excessive adhesive PL when gluing up the first flange, which took a whole lot of time to clean up nicely after the fact. This was worsened by the fact that I left the clamps and jigs in position a full 24 hours as it was cold and I used no mechanical fastening, thus the glue was proper hard.

The second one cleaned up a treat as the masking tape took the full brunt of the PL and only very minimal chiseling of fully cured PL was required.

3) If you wish to route / cut, hand holds into panel 7 This must be done prior to fastening it to the cabinet. I planned to do all my hand holds after the fact, however the braces get in the way of the router for panel 7
Once again I.I.T.P.
8, 10 and 12 are all possible once cab is complete, just not 7.

4) Jack Positioning, personal preference and cabinet location dictate what will work best for you. I'm really happy with the decision I made to locate one pair on panel 8, behind 7 and 9, with the second pair on Panel 10 behind 13.
No real compromise for all cabinet positions - standing up, laying facing crowd or laying facing boundary. Perhaps in the actual mouth on panel 7 would be great, although aesthetically I like the look of an unadulterated T60 mouth.

Best of luck on your build and hope you get your set-out nailed

[MissileCrisis]

Thanks Bill, I found my error.

On another note I just supremely messed up my side panel (yeah the one with the intricate routing, see attached). When about to put in panel 1 I measured the distance to the top and it was 5.25 instead of 6.75 inches. My plan is glue the side panel back into place (on the edge that needs fixing) and re cut that edge such that no one will know the difference. (Prays to PL gods that the PL will hold through the recut/bondo/sanding).
See below for before picture.

Also I need to remember to plug up all the pin hole drill spots used to draw the layout on the other side of the sub.

[MissileCrisis]

Back on course, PL held like a champ. First panel in and pre-dadoed. See below for recovery and first panel install

[Grant Bunter]

Good recovery

How about running a nice thick smear of PL along those dado's that won't be holding panels, to make sure the ply doesn't separate...

[MissileCrisis]

Good idea, however since I have screws holding panel two into glue position ATM I'm pretty sure that won't be necessary, but I'll re-evaluate once it is solidly in there. See attached for install of panel 2.

Cutting oddball 54 degree angle (36 degree complement)

Glued and screwed

Also, this ply is a whole level better than the crap I bought last time, for reference, I cut 1/16 inch slivers off when trimming a piece and the layers wouldn't separate. The 5 even plies are making my life a lot easier (dealing with some IMO rather large warp at the moment with the help of screws) The dado's are also helping line it up. Maybe you could reword what you meant about the plywood seperating (are you referring to the different layers? or the super thin in between region near the mess up zone?). I appreciate the encouragement. Just ordered another Lab 12 so I can keep my T39 (until I build a 2nd T60) and you won't believe the deal I got. Amazon prime free 2 day shipping (amazon has a 10% off on all their major brand products which includes Eminence) IF you're in the USA and in the market for a Lab 12 I recommend you look into it (although I got the last one they currently were stocking ) because I got it for {Total before tax: $133.64 Sales Tax: $11.36
Total for This Shipment: $145.00
Which is a steal considering I get it by this Wednesday (shipped this evening)

[MissileCrisis]

Could someone comment on what size hex bolts and tnuts to use for the mounting the driver? In the plans it basically says long enough. I'd like to know what Leland let's in the t60 kits if possible because the ones he included for my t39 were spot on. Even if the rest of the cab wasn't. <rant>Btw I have plans to renovate that when I get the chance. I want to hear it do 130+ db in a corner(or maybe 105 at 1 watt in a corner) because I'm yet to be convinced it's possible, even after I get it completely airtight. </rant>

[Grant Bunter]

Yes, a smear of PL to stop the layers from separating, because your (wrong) dado has exposed those layers...

[MissileCrisis]

I'll put a thin layer of pl in that groove tonight. I wouldn't have thought to do it. Thanks.

[Grant Bunter]

Your welcome

I only thought to suggest it as it occurred to me in my second pair of T39's build. One side piece of ply had a defect in it. I was putting in panel 5 and thought, "hmmm, defect in the path, better slap some PL in there, just to make sure"...

[MissileCrisis]

Moving right along, finished the slightly time consuming panel 3 and will be installing 4/5 tonight (who needs fireworks, I make my own, muahaha).

Squeeze-out is king

Dados per usual

Testing driver for cone slap as per plans. Picture seems stationary because the phone that I was using to tone generate decided it likes to pause audio output when taking a picture, a bit lame.

Looking good so far

[MissileCrisis]

New photos, installed panels 4 and 5, complete with speakon holes (planning to seal with lots of some sort of glue although the fit is pretty snug). The plan is to place two speakons in the access cubby-hole and two on the bottom back (recessed on bottom so that when tipped up on wheels they don't get smashed).

[miked]

Lookin great! I like the Speakons inside the cubby idea.