DR 250 in France...

[Kranku68]

so c'm'on let's go...
first build for me: a pair of DR 250 (3010 and melded array...)
the big challenge: having 'em finished at the end of august.

[DJPhatman]

Kranku68, I hope you are not using that Tite-Bond wood glue instead of an expanding polyurathane adhesive, such as Loctite brand PL Premium. Tite-Bond does not have the expanding, gap-filling capabilities of PL Premium, and this is a must for air tight finish.

Google translate to French:

Kranku68, j'espère que vous ne l'utilisez que Tite-Bond colle à bois à la place d'un adhésif de polyurethane expansion, comme la marque Loctite PL Premium. Tite-Bond n'a pas les capacités d'expansion, de combler les écarts de PL Premium, et c'est un must pour l'air arrivée serrée.

[Frederic Gelinas]

DjPhatman is right (although the Google translate is a bit confusing...)

Tu dois absoluement utiliser la colle PL Premium. Elle prend une légère expansion ce qui permet de faire des joints parfaitement étanches.

[Kranku68]

Yes !
Don't worry...the tite bond bottle was there cause I was glueing a fretboard at the same time and assembling some pieces of plywood to cut some new parts of the throat horn ... No tite bond for the dr 250, I've read some of the posts and it's written in the plans !,,,
But Thanks for the advice anyway

[escapemcp]

Did you put the titebond in the picture just for a laugh??

If so, then you want to include a picture of some crappy chinese ply or a non-standard driver in your next post - should get a similar response

[Kranku68]

ok after a little trip in spain i'm back at work !
i've ordered and received this week all the stuff i was missing:
40 x 1016 and filter caps, resistors etc...Super fast shipping from parts-express, really impressive !
and finally i went to 2510 deltalite II for this first build...Thanks Thomann...
some progress in the construction have been done, i'll put some pictures this evening

[Chris_Allen]

Two good companies you you've used there.

Sadly,due to interest rates, Thomann is as cheap as it used to be

[Kranku68]

ok the main parts are done...i'm beginning with the tricky phase now...

[DJPhatman]

I'm sorry, Kranku68, but you installed the T-nuts on the wrong side of the woofer baffle. If they are not glued in, it's not a big problem. Pull them, drill all the way through the woofer baffle, then install hardwood dowel to fill in the holes. Use "Kreg jig" style screws to attach the woofer, and leave the T-nuts out.

Other than that, good looking build!

[Kranku68]

Yeah and i knew that but i had to make a choice...in fact i ordered too shorts screws !
So to be able to mount my speakers that was the only way...so i've glued the nuts and i'll probably have to install a joint for the speakers

[Bruce Weldy]

Yeah and i knew that but i had to make a choice...in fact i ordered too shorts screws !
So to be able to mount my speakers that was the only way...so i've glued the nuts and i'll probably have to install a joint for the speakers

As you tighten the bolts, you will pull the t-nuts out...even with glue. If you don't tighten it enough, you'll get leaks around the speaker gasket.

You really have to re-do this.

[Kranku68]

Damned...you're just f####### right...how could i have been so stupid
So let's re-do that part...

[Bruce Weldy]

Damned...you're just f####### right...how could i have been so stupid
So let's re-do that part...

You aren't stupid ....if you were, you'd ignore the advice and just keep going.

You just proved that you are smart.

[Kranku68]

ok some progress...
so i've followed the advices and taken away the t-nuts from the wrong side and put'em on the correct side.
an afternoon making some dust and the sheath cleats have been cut and glued...
the back braces are now cut and i'm beginning the glueing process...

[Tom Smit]

Is that white silicone at the joints? May I suggest that you use a knife/chisel to trim it out? The horn sheaths have to go tight to the cleats, and those beads may impede that to happen and you risk having the cab not be air-tight..