Starting the build tomorrow, a couple of quick questions

[BlackLabel2]

Going to start building my Tuba 18 tomorrow. I have built the panel jig and the right angle jig (actually used it to make a bat house with my kids already)

My question is about using the right angle jig and not getting it glued to the panels. I was walking through the process and if I have overflow of PL out the back does the jig get ruined?

Any tips on how to avoid this?

Also, do I have to do one panel at a time, or could I assemble panel #1, screw it in place, and then move on to panel #2, or should I let the glue fully cure between each panel?

Thanks for any help and looking forward to the build.

[Chris_Allen]

If you use tracing paper, the jig won't stick.

Once you have screwed it in position, you can risk moving on but if the wood warps, it may not end up square.

Normally, after an hour, I've moved onto the next panel.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

My question is about using the right angle jig and not getting it glued to the panels. I was walking through the process and if I have overflow of PL out the back does the jig get ruined?

The jig only stays in place until the panels are fastened. If it gets PL on it wipe it off.

[Grant Bunter]

In your plans it might say something like "use baking paper or plastic sheeting/bags to stop (guide/right angle jig/support pieces) X being glued to the panel". If it doesn't say that, protect any extra guides/dewarping boards/right angle jigs with baking paper to prevent them from being stuck to your cab.

It would be a slow build if you could only add one panel per day.
On any given day of building, there will appear a natural time to stop for the day. The build itself dictates that to some degree, it would depend on the cab being built.

Sure, get panel 1 on, go for panel 2 as well. You might get 3 and 4 on too. Or more.
You need a lot of clamps though lol.

There is no need to rush though. Careful methodical work throughout the day is more likely to lead to a leak free square cab.
It may turn out Day 1 for you is simply cutting up the pieces to rough cut size, marking up the side and making the access cover hole. And that would be ok.

But once you stop for the day, let the PL set at least overnight, before recommencing.

Enjoy yourself

[Tom Smit]

You might try running the jig with the shallow side against the tablesaw fence so as to nip off the outside corner of the jig (tall side at the blade.....blade set at 45 degree angle). This way the PL will not touch the jig.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

You might try running the jig with the shallow side against the tablesaw fence so as to nip off the outside corner of the jig (tall side at the blade.....blade set at 45 degree angle). This way the PL will not touch the jig.

The problem with that is that you use the jig as an alignment tool, screwing it to the cab on the joint line. If you nip off the corner getting it right on the line is no longer a simple proposition.

[byacey]

Rub bee wax or paraffin wax well into the area of the jig that will be in close contact to the glue. It won't stick and any glue squeeze-out can be removed off the jig easily afterward.

Edit: Bar soap will work too.

[jimbo7]

Rub bee wax or paraffin wax well into the area of the jig that will be in close contact to the glue. It won't stick and any glue squeeze-out can be removed off the jig easily afterward.

Edit: Bar soap will work too.

Nice! I got a bunch of bar soap and some length of 3" x3" angle iron i can try this on

[byacey]

If you're using angle iron,check it with a square. It's seldom exactly 90 degrees.

[jimbo7]

If you're using angle iron,check it with a square. It's seldom exactly 90 degrees.

It is. Its some high grade commerical stuff i got from work. Heavy, too.

You know what else you can't trust? Tape measures/rulers. Most of mine vary in some small fraction. For my builds I've been only using one rule to keeps everything perfect.

[Tom Smit]

You might try running the jig with the shallow side against the tablesaw fence so as to nip off the outside corner of the jig (tall side at the blade.....blade set at 45 degree angle). This way the PL will not touch the jig.

The problem with that is that you use the jig as an alignment tool, screwing it to the cab on the joint line. If you nip off the corner getting it right on the line is no longer a simple proposition.

True, that.

[byacey]

If you're using angle iron,check it with a square. It's seldom exactly 90 degrees.

It is. Its some high grade commerical stuff i got from work. Heavy, too.

Please double check with a square. Just about all cold rolled angle I've seen measures about 88 degrees, unless it's been specially milled after to be 90 degrees. I don't know why they make it that way, perhaps it distorts upon exiting out of the former rollers, or maybe some intentionally, obscure purpose in fabrication methods unbeknownst to me.

a 2 degree error doesn't sound significant, but it adds up over distance on longer panels.

[Bruce Weldy]

Why not build you some of these.....

They work better and have no issue with glue....

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Why not build you some of these.....

You can't remove panel warping with those. On outside corners you don't even need right angle jigs, or clamps. A 2 inch wide piece of plywood gives a perfect joint and zero warping.

[Bruce Weldy]

Why not build you some of these.....

You can't remove panel warping with those. On outside corners you don't even need right angle jigs, or clamps. A 2 inch wide piece of plywood gives a perfect joint and zero warping.

I've only built with BB, so I haven't had any panel warping. I've used 'em on every cab I've built....plus many other projects over the last few years. Couldn't imagine building a box (or anything with a 90 degree angle) without 'em.

I haven't ever had a problem with outside corners lining up.....maybe I'm missing something here.