T60 build. Finally.

[MissileCrisis]

Installed panel 6 and braces tonight. I wouldn't do this build without dado's or screws because it really helps hold things in place while you fasten (so it glues in the right spot).

Cut this bevel with the dado blade for the table saw.

Braces secured with screws in order to obtain tight fit and PL squeeze-out

All done

Second angle (squeeze-out a plenty)

[miked]

Looking good! The braces look great and I really like the dadoes. Will you dado the second side as well? That's the only thing that scares me off from the dado idea is getting the second side seated properly. If just one of your inner panels is off by a 16th, it probably wont' seat properly. I wish you continued success though! Keep the pics coming.

[Charles Jenkinson]

I'm not getting dadoes, full stop. Without dadoes it seems to me the procedure is: PL up the edges, put brace carefully in place, hold with one hand and nail gun with the other (i.e. get one nail in, whole job steadies up, more nails). Job done. The braces don't have to be leak tight. Even if not using a nail gun, I'm sure dadoes don't hold the job any better than jamming it in place dry (or perhaps one steadying hand), while drilling a pilot hole with the other. Then PL up. ...? Perhaps for another thread...

More power to you though for getting in, on keeping building. Well done!

[MissileCrisis]

IME if I don't use dadoes it is very easy for braces to slide out of position, also the combination of screws and dados makes it so I don't need clamps/jigs to hold it in place, and some of these panels are hard to reach with clamps.

[MissileCrisis]

I'm not dadoing the other side. That's asking for problems and my goal for this build is maximum airtight because I'm making up for my failed t39 build. This has to work as intended or I will be extremely discouraged from sub building. I have some small drill holes on the side panels and a Dado joint to fill with plenty (edge of panel 6) but other than that I think it's looking solid so far. Btw I plan on doing one piece access panel flanges and a cutout cubby hole for the speakons when I get the chance. How do you make your router jigs so small? Mine are massive because I have to fit the 6 inch diameter of the base inside the cutout (for the speakons jig I made) and I'd imagine a similar amount of size for the hand hold jig. I've been told there's something called a pattern following bit but the router is my dad's so for now that isn't an option.

[MissileCrisis]

Panel 7 done. BTW I convinced my dad to get a flush cut bit for his router so I was able to make this sweet handle template!

[Tom Smit]

Nice progress!

[Charles Jenkinson]

...I'm making up for my failed t39 build. This has to work as intended or I will be extremely discouraged from sub building.

This concerns me. I really do hope you manage to drop back onto that T39, because it seemed like it was just the gasket issues (not enough compliance) that were besetting you, plus from what I understood you had had difficulty (access wise) fully leak testing around the driver.

[MissileCrisis]

...I'm making up for my failed t39 build. This has to work as intended or I will be extremely discouraged from sub building.

This concerns me. I really do hope you manage to drop back onto that T39, because it seemed like it was just the gasket issues (not enough compliance) that were besetting you, plus from what I understood you had had difficulty (access wise) fully leak testing around the driver.

After I test the T60 in all it's glory I'll look into taking apart the T39 and replacing the gasket with speaker tape. Right now with my limited free time it's doing just fine with its (reduced) output in my room. It can still be loud enough to annoy my parents (which I avoid) thus it can wait. If that doesn't fix it, I'll drive it to an authorized builder and pay for them to inspect it (don't know if this is possible but I'd be willing to compensate them for their time). I don't want to scrap the thing because a lot of sweat and effort went into that bugger and I'm not letting it go without a fighting chance. I'm overbuilding the T60 for a reason, I want it to work!

[MissileCrisis]

First build casualty, the part that holds the router bit in place whose name escapes me at the moment slipped and thus my template and one handhold are a little bit out of wack. I'll make a new slightly bigger one to cover up the error and I'll be back at it. However, it made me end the night short (as I've learned from the forum/speaker cab building "if something goes wrong, just step away for a day").

[Titanium Hand]

Collet perhaps?

[MissileCrisis]

Precisely. My dad's router has a pita collet that likes to slip.

[DJPhatman]

Precisely. My dad's router has a pita collet that likes to slip.

Remove the collet lock-nut and the collet. Disassemble the collet and thoroughly clean it, and the inside of the router's drive shaft. If it still slips, replace it. Losing a router bit at high speed could be as lethal as a bullet.

[MissileCrisis]

He removed and attempted to clean the collet yesterday. I'll make sure it gets done more thoroughly. Where would I buy a replacement collet? I'm guessing Newark or something but I'd have to ask my dad. I'd rather not die making a speaker cab . what would you clean it with?

[DJPhatman]

He removes and attempted to clean the collet yesterday. I'll make sure it gets done more thoroughly. Where would I buy a replacement collet? I'm guessing Newark or something but I'd have to ask my dad. I'd rather not die making a speaker cab . what would you clean it with?

I'm a little ( ) nuts, so I use solvent cleaners, usually MEK, because I have it handy. Use whatever you can that removes any debris on the metal. If you need to replace it, check with

General Plumbing Supply Co
1530 San Luis Road
Walnut Creek, CA 94597
(925) 939-4622

or

S & S Tool Supply
1915 Shell Avenue
Martinez, CA 94553
(925) 313-5840

Google maps say they are closest to you.