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The manufacturer specific amp modules will have pre-set crossover points and really won't work. Why not just build the passive crossovers? Less amp channels, easier to use, only 2 wire speaker cable instead of 4. I considered bi-amping, but I'm so happy that I didn't. It really isn't necessary. [/qu...

I bridged both channels, two for the woofer and two for the tweeters. Effectively a two channel amp now. Was not enough power to get the full potential out of the design. Changing up the amplifier now. ***The Dayton full range plate amp that is stickied on the DR Horn sub-forum has unfortunately bee...

Drivers with huge xmax and Pe are required to get high output at low frequencies from small sealed cabs. That's of value in a car, where you generally don't have room for a large box. Not only is that unnecessary in a horn, it can be counter productive. http://www.readresearch.co.uk/loudspeaker_pap...

Probably neither. Horns don't need monster drivers. That's one reason why we use horns. I apologize, Bill. It’s the same reason my first cab of your designs that I built was a 36” THT. Just wanted the headroom for the times I ‘wanted’ it, but truth be told..I definitely don’t ‘need’ a THT. Not to m...

Looks like a Tall AutoTuba would work, even better with a decent output marine subwoofer that aligns within specs. I rather reduce likely corrosion issues. The driver is rather expensive in comparison to the favored MCM choice. Shown here: https://www.jlaudio.com/products/m6-10w-s-gwgw-4-marine-audi...

Which of these two 10” drivers would you choose and why if up to you for a Tall Auto Tuba that will be extra braced to handled the extra power. Goal here is best overall high performance. Trying to weed out possible marketing claims etc.

Driver #1 or Driver #2 marked on each slide. Thank you!

Practically fully completed this cab. Is it perfect? Not by far. I am glad I took on the challenge though and will be better off for the next build. It needs the glue residue taken off the tweeter faces, even though I used wax paper on the jig. Maybe too much glue. Some touch up Duratex, etc. You ca...

Have a friend that currently has a 31’ center console boat. He installed a slot ported box with a JL W7 13.5 inside of the console with approximately 1400 watts powering it. The box is built to factory suggested dimensions seen here along with the other driver specs: https://www.jlaudio.com/products...

Thank you, Seth and Bruce. More power over new driver wins.

You've got the equivalent of a thirty five foot cabin cruiser being powered by a ten horsepower outboard motor. See the problem? That’s a perfect analogy, Bill and well received as an owner of a boat restoration business in Florida. Haha. The idea of maximum portability by not lugging around a gene...

I will do that on the next one, Bill. Thank you. Tested this cab out without the tweeters just for fun. Been exploring more amplifier options for more output. Currently has the Kappalite 3015 wired to a 2x50wrms (rated at 4 ohms) amp board for first demo. Likely getting around 20 watts. A 4 ohm woof...

I saw this old post and was curious in relation to this white paper from Dan. I know it seems like he kind of fell off the grid, but think he was somewhat ‘known’ around here.
Are the subwoofer specs mentioned in the paper relatively moot because of the effects of the horn itself or ?

howiez wrote: ↑Sat Jan 06, 2024 11:10 pmLooking great!

Thank you!

At least for the side sheathing, I remember a couple well placed ratchet straps can help hold em in place. Also might try leaving the sheathing in a 5 gallon bucket or similar overnight to get some pre-bend into the wood so you're not fighting it as much when you go to install them. Do you mean str...

Is there any tip on how to form and fasten the sheaths easier? Just lots of clamps? Haha. I used a laser engraver to 'score' the smaller ones so they'd bend easier. Worked great. https://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?p=291266#p291266 That’s a great tip. Basically kerfing the panel. Thank...