I have a line on some reclaimed wood that for the sake of discussion I can get cut down to 3/4" x 8" x 24" and I might want to cut those down further to 3/4" x 2" x 24" and join them to make whatever depth I want. I've made an XF210 out of 3/4" plywood and am very happy with it; the split baffle is 1/2" solid joined pine that I already had on hand and had had it for so long that I knew it would be as dried out as it could be and it was still dead flat.
I keep reading in audiophile forums that solid wood is to be avoided for speaker cabinets because it's more resonant than plywood. My question is, is it a bad idea to use solid/joined wood in the XF guitar cabs or the Fitzmaurice-design fullrange or sub cabs? If not, would it help to bond bitumen or other heavy and stable material around the inside?
Thanks!
Solid/Joined wood for cabs?
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Re: Solid/Joined wood for cabs?
Avoid solid wood. Go with baltic birch, which is superior. Even MDF (shudder) would be preferable to solid wood.
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Re: Solid/Joined wood for cabs?
!. Stop reading audiophile forums.
2. Solid wood isn't more resonant than plywood.
3. Solid wood is OK so long as the maximum width used is eight inches, with no jointing.
4. There's no use for bitumen in speakers, no matter what audiophile forums say.
2. Solid wood isn't more resonant than plywood.
3. Solid wood is OK so long as the maximum width used is eight inches, with no jointing.
4. There's no use for bitumen in speakers, no matter what audiophile forums say.

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Re: Solid/Joined wood for cabs?
Hi,
Regarding solid wood, I was considering using maple, walnut or other hardwood for the carcass. Is one hardwood better than another for its acoustical properties?
Also, the cabinet depth of the XF 212 is greater than the 8 inches mentioned above so 2 boards would need to be joined to get the proper width, correct?
Thanks in advance
Regarding solid wood, I was considering using maple, walnut or other hardwood for the carcass. Is one hardwood better than another for its acoustical properties?
Also, the cabinet depth of the XF 212 is greater than the 8 inches mentioned above so 2 boards would need to be joined to get the proper width, correct?
Thanks in advance
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Re: Solid/Joined wood for cabs?
Don't use solid wood. Use Baltic Birch
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Re: Solid/Joined wood for cabs?
In an open-backed cab, you can do whatever you want. If you are going closed-backed, then there is more internal pressure, so stick with Baltic Birch. I built an XF210. An XF212 out of 3/4" hardwood is gonna' be heavy as hell.Chris47240 wrote: ↑Wed Oct 08, 2025 10:03 pm Hi,
Regarding solid wood, I was considering using maple, walnut or other hardwood for the carcass. Is one hardwood better than another for its acoustical properties?
Also, the cabinet depth of the XF 212 is greater than the 8 inches mentioned above so 2 boards would need to be joined to get the proper width, correct?
Thanks in advance
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
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Re: Solid/Joined wood for cabs?
Hi Bill Fitzmaurice,
What are your thoughts?
What are your thoughts?
- Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Solid/Joined wood for cabs?
I would not use solid wood.
Re: Solid/Joined wood for cabs?
Veneer over ply is a solid option if you want the wood look
(intentional pun)
(intentional pun)
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421