I built two tuba 60’s for my DJ’in Cousin and he used them in few small events (everyone was floored btw). Soon we determined that we could do with two more tubas for future outdoor events. We went on a sleep learning curve with the previous tubas and I’m determined to make this one and all future ones, perfect. All the previous builds we did everything from memory and did not save our plans. So we sat down and reconstructed every little problem we had and annotated the 3rd ones plans. SO this post shall document the 3rd tubas construction day by day in real time just for fun and prosperity. Enjoy
Day-1
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Ripped a 5x5 plywood to 2-60’x30’. (mind the saw kerf) It’s just easier to find a square piece of plywood for the sides. I found a cabinet supplier that keeps odd sized plywood in stock and this prevents having two buy 3 sheets of 4”x8” .
Warped sheets of plywood cause many problems further down the build you go. So we bought many 2’ broads that we a friend plane true on the long edges. These are used for the joining jigs and in this case truing the driver side panel. Always remembering to plug the screw holes after the broad is no longer needed.
The braces cause many headaches. We found its easier to cut the brace using the drawn horn path before processing on. These are the also the straighten jigs for the first few panels.
Braces are screwed directly to the driver panel.
Using a guide screwed to the braces to help plunge cut the driver panel. We use a 90 degree angle because we use a metal flange to seal the driver chamber.
Last edited by zefrenm on Sat Jan 28, 2012 6:26 pm, edited 2 times in total.
“With much respect and honor Dear sir … The size of the Tuba 60 is of non consequence, I rather do love bass and bass rather loves size, so save the “its too big comments” … thank you ”
We made the decision to countersink the screws and plug with wooden dowels this time. We drilled with a small 3/32 bit from the back as a guide for the countersinking bit. Flip and drill from the front. Then a finally drill out the hole with a bit that’s just a touch bigger than the screw threads. Then sand the outside lightly to remove burrs.
It’s been said before, I didn’t believe it but… “Thou shalt Rip the inside panels final width all at once” it’s just easier, but triple check the measurements mistake here wastes a full sheet of plywood. Use clamps or screws to hold the broads together and always keep your true sides to one side. And Keep Cuts sides to the opposite of the true sides. (this keeps errors to one sides) scribe a center line down the two finished sheets for reference.
Here we are using the braces as joining jigs. Drill out as extra large hole in the panels to be joined to joining jigs. (Allows for movement in joining pieces) PL the outline on the driver side, Then screw the panel to the joining jig tight to straighten. Then screw panel to driver side. When attaching an adjoining panel first drill one hole extra large. (the previous panel becomes the other half of the straightening jig). Then screw that panel to previous panels using the larger screw hole. Then screw new panel to the driver panel and screw the new panel to the previous panel. ( take the measurements from the driver panel outlines to help true the new panel)
Removing straitening jigs and filling holes with PL
Last edited by zefrenm on Tue Jan 24, 2012 3:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
“With much respect and honor Dear sir … The size of the Tuba 60 is of non consequence, I rather do love bass and bass rather loves size, so save the “its too big comments” … thank you ”
same as the previous two 24" and single Eminence LAB 15.
“With much respect and honor Dear sir … The size of the Tuba 60 is of non consequence, I rather do love bass and bass rather loves size, so save the “its too big comments” … thank you ”
Dan30 wrote:I thought the minimum size cab for a lab15 was 27"?
It is but most doors on the Navajo reservation have 28" of clearance and questionable construction qualities. We did a mock up of the 27" (weighted to final 250lbs) and tried to get the sub in a few venues around town. We banged hands, knuckles, dented knobs, knocked out center beams, door jams and broke a sill. 24 was the width we needed to prevent most of these accidents with a two man team to haul the tuba up 8 stairs with a 28" door.
“With much respect and honor Dear sir … The size of the Tuba 60 is of non consequence, I rather do love bass and bass rather loves size, so save the “its too big comments” … thank you ”
Day 2
My quest for perfection ended today but only after each step after step the melting of perfect joints inflated my ego. Each step made sense and everything fit then … Disaster on the last panel. My ego deflated and I sat wondering what went wrong, sitting senseless, But its not an excuse to panic but time to trudge on and proceed while the PL is still wet.
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The day started late because I was waiting on my cousin to deliver the Eminence Lab 15. It was cold. And when the day ended I discovered the value of the Circular saw jig *BIULD IT* it makes it easier. I cut the first panel and brace without the circular jig. Hence why I’m having to shim the panel 1 brace to it’s proper height using the horn path outline.(it was off by ¼ of an inch)
Panel 2 brace holes and a marked guide hole with a G. Brace can’t go in until after the driver panel is installed.
We made sure to Scribe all important measurements up the panels.
My cousin delivered the Lab 15 at noon and we quickly set about breaking it in. 20Hz sine and the amp turned halfway up with the driver coat hung on my Loom.
Wait until you have the driver before going past panel 3. You need it for a 360 degree all around satisfactory fit. We Drill the t nut holes with the diver centered on the driver cutout then returned it back for break in. Per BillF place drive hole “off axis”
“With much respect and honor Dear sir … The size of the Tuba 60 is of non consequence, I rather do love bass and bass rather loves size, so save the “its too big comments” … thank you ”
This is after using a using a jig saw to cut a comfortable sealing surface for the driver gasket with ample room for driver excursion.
“PL-in” the t-nuts and tightening the nut home here saves the headache of a striped t-nut in a completed tuba with the driver installed. Then we test tone the drive in the driver panel and found it produced and gentle massage wave when viewed close. There is plenty of room for driver here.
Here is the oversized guide hole on the drive panel for the straighten jig/braces. Screw home tight then, perfect fit!!
Milescraft 90 degree dill attachment for screw bits and 1 ½ inch long drill bit. Heaven sent for use in tight spaces. Lol
We made sure to Scribe all important measurements up the driver chamber panel.
“With much respect and honor Dear sir … The size of the Tuba 60 is of non consequence, I rather do love bass and bass rather loves size, so save the “its too big comments” … thank you ”
Straighten braces is use. With the next tuba there’s going to be a sacrificial straighten board on the inside of the driver panel. There was ¼ of an inch bow in the center of all the panels.
The horror realized. Panel 4 did not join panel 1 right. *We faced this situation before and instead of rushing to force the panels to fit, we tried using some logic. Panel 3-4 fit perfectly, so we checked the edge of panel 1, and disasters the edge was off by ½ inch on the outside. So to save the alignment of the panel 3-4 joint we slimed the extra ½ inch gap and clamped down. We used spacers to maintain the space between panel 1 and 3 until the PL sets. And tomorrow we deal with the offending gap. The first, the most important is where it went wrong. Next time circular saw jigs from the start we were so close.
“With much respect and honor Dear sir … The size of the Tuba 60 is of non consequence, I rather do love bass and bass rather loves size, so save the “its too big comments” … thank you ”
same as the previous two 24" and single Eminence LAB 15.
What happened to the low rider loaded one?
Still got em' we wanted to see the difference which was night and day at the breaking period.
“With much respect and honor Dear sir … The size of the Tuba 60 is of non consequence, I rather do love bass and bass rather loves size, so save the “its too big comments” … thank you ”
Woke up late this morning And It was very cold. Today was slow going as most of it was spent on fixing the mistake of the previous night. Mistakes when carefully dealt with can be eliminated and time will repair your ego.
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The PL wasn’t setting from the night before so a space heater and a lamp provided a heat source until outside warmed up.
The mistake wakens. To fix this I needed to create a wedge with a 56 degree and 90 degree angle that went from a point to ½ inch wide over 24 inches. Impossible? Naw It just take time to create another jig.
This was the easiest way I could get the 56 degree angle. It puts the circular saw on the edge of the plywood and that inverts the angles on the saw. So setting the saw to 34 degree creates a 56 degree angle. This jig is not for the faint of heart very dangerous. I use screws so there no chance to anything falling during the cutting.
This jig has to be perfect, and if you don’t have a planner/joiner hire a carpenter to make it.
The wedge PL-ed into place with the extras to be sanded down after everything sets.
“With much respect and honor Dear sir … The size of the Tuba 60 is of non consequence, I rather do love bass and bass rather loves size, so save the “its too big comments” … thank you ”