I thought those caps you can flip on install meaning -/+ = +/-, ok this is a long list, will do I got a cheap Harbor Freight meter where should I put the dials. What setting i mean, I know Im newbie. LOL Thanks
I found the culprit the meter does not read anything on the 2.2mH coil of 12" woofer on any setting on the meter. But this is brand new from PE? Also do I have to remove the red protective color on the copper wire before soldering, isn't there a very thin film on the wounded lead from the coil. Thanks
Yes, you need to remove the red coating on the both ends of the inductors before soldering to another piece.
If you haven't, that can be enough to stop things from working.
Have you got the manual for your meter?
Is there a setting where, when you touch the two probes together, you get an audible tone?
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel. Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Ok Grant, no speaker on my meter, also where it is soldered to the cap above the 2.2mH is exposed clear metal no red coat. But I unhook the leads coming in from the bottom of the pictures above and had the red coating so I X-acto knife the coating to clear metal and put it back in now there's a reading. Yes Bruce the leads are in the right holes positive and negative holes on the woofer.
djlivex wrote: ↑Thu May 28, 2020 4:25 pm
Yes Bruce the leads are in the right holes positive and negative holes on the woofer.
No, I meant on your meter. Typically there are three holes to measure different things. You have to have the correct two for the continuity meter to work. And they can be different on different meters. My two are not the same.
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
My suspicion is that you have this meter... https://www.harborfreight.com/electrica ... 63759.html
Anyway, if you look on the lower right you will see an upside-down horse shoe, which is the "ohm" symbol. Place your dial on the 200 of that part of the range. The red lead should be in the middle red hole that has the "ohm" symbol, and the black lead in the "com" hole.
SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Fri May 29, 2020 12:40 am
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If you put it in this setting and touch the leads together, does it beep?
+1
That's what I was going to say.....if it doesn't, then move the red lead to the upper hole. You aren't reading anything, just seeing if it is passing signal.
That's the setting I use mine on 99% of the time - because I test every cable I build that way. Great for checking them on the fly at a gig when you aren't sure if you have a bad cable (other people's cables - I don't have bad cables )
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Bruce sorry late reply I did a lot of errands with the wifey, you know how it goes. Anyway no beep in that picture. I did rearrange my sound system for testing purposes I pulled out the turntable, amp, mixer, and BBE. Will test soon my son in college is online class. He'll be done in a couple of hours. Thanks
So this is what I did and got the 12" to make sound. I directly connected the speaker wire out from amp to bass red and bass blue terminal on this:
The first pin is for 12" from the 3 pin terminal starting on the left for the 3 way Omni, the middle one is for the 6.5" and right pins are for the 1".
Should I redo the terminal blocks do you have a suggestion where to get a 3 way block terminal. What I did was to epoxy this terminals to bare wood and I think its floating on top of the wood and not enough contact on the metal pins but they are plugged in tight as you see here with wire pin. Thanks
What you have done tells you there is a problem somewhere between the (speakon socket?) and the woofer. That's all.
It could be a wire, or the crossover, still.
Back to your multimeter. As Tom said, set it on Ohms, scale of 20, see if you get a reading between the speakon, and the connecting terminal on your woofer board, for both +, and -, and if you get a reading, then your three way terminals are fine, so get back to us...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel. Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...