Hi! Almost done with O10.5 using CNC

[AndreasMergner]

I've had the plans for a while and had ordered the kit from speakerhardware.com. A Jack would have been nice, but I'm sure the O10.5 with the DL 2510 will be good enough for a beginning bassist for practice & jamming.

I'm trying to get a bass "rig" together. I built a bass with a twisted neck (on purpose) a couple of weeks ago. It plays great. Build thread here: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=433680

I also have a Crown XTI 1000 coming, which will be total overkill, but allow me to add cabs and use its filters and eqs. It is also pretty light and inexpensive for its power. If I determine I want to build a T39, I'll be all set amp-wise.

I only have a couple of pics of the top, bottom and speaker mount I cut on my CNC router. I eliminated a couple of parts to make the building a bit easier -- especially with the use of the CNC. Don't kill me, please. The dados in the top and bottom made it really easy to glue together. I didn't even use screws or nails -- just PU. I'll likely do the same for the sides of the T39. The dados allow you to rip a whole bunch of wood to height (width for the T39) and then fit them to the dados. I built the box in a few hours and then took all day to cure the PL. I'll install the speaker and wiring tonight.

I found good wood at Home Depot. It is the smaller, precut wood section. I used a couple of 2'x4' pieces of 1/2" and a bit of 1/4" thick wood. The 1/2" has 5 even plys. I looked all around and they don't have it in the 4'x8' sheets. If I were building anything bigger, I'd go elsewhere with my trailer, but it was nice to put the smaller sheets right into my car.

Andreas

[Chris_Allen]

Hi,

Nifty CNC work - as ever, a few questions.

Why did you make the driver baffle full width and put holes in it - would it not be easier to cut it shorter? Also, if using dados, why not create one for the baffle? or did you create one for the baffle but not the horn flanges? or have you made a huge mistake by not sealing the horn side of the baffle?

[AndreasMergner]

I eliminated the horn braces/flanges, so needed to make the baffle full width. Since I made it full width, I added the holes.

The dado is for the baffle.

The baffle braces were also eliminated....but I realized that I needed something to seal off the sides of the speaker opening.....so I did with some 1/4" ply.

I also used 1/4" ply for the horn sides. I wasn't planning on it, but ran out of 1/2". The box feels really stout, so I'm sure it will be fine. If not, I will add some more support to them.

[Chris_Allen]

I eliminated the horn braces/flanges, so needed to make the baffle full width. Since I made it full width, I added the holes.

You need the horn flanges to create a seal between the horn opening, the baffle and the driver but if you have covered that with 1/4" hopefully you will be ok. There will be quite a lot of pressure on it.

I suppose if you had made the baffle from 3/4" you could have CNC'ed a 1/2" step and made it from one piece.

[AndreasMergner]

I suppose if you had made the baffle from 3/4" you could have CNC'ed a 1/2" step and made it from one piece.

That's what I was thinking too! If only I realized beforehand..... It should be fine, It is only ~2" wide and supported by the horn on one side and the baffle on the other.

[LelandCrooks]

What do you have for a CNC rig?

[AndreasMergner]

It is a CNC router that I made. It has a cutting area of 79" x 27" x 12" and can cut at 800 ipm+/rapid 1200 ipm. It weighs 600lbs+. I used it to make many solid wood RC sailplanes: planeinsanemodels.com

I don't recommend making or buying one unless you make a lot of product. It took me a few hours just to program those pieces. You could probably cut them by hand faster! ...and I have a lot of experience programming CAM. Now, if you make a few, you get your time back. If you make several hundred, you get your money back on your machine.

[AndreasMergner]

I have my O10.5 hooked up to my Crown XTI1000 now. It sounds good, but I did not break in the speaker yet because I just received the amp today. I was surprised that I can run it full out on the amp even in bridged mode (1000 watts). I'm guessing it is not getting to 1000 watts, because that just doesn't make sense. Anyone know what voltage I'm looking for? Maybe I can run it full out because the speaker isn't broken in yet?

So, I tried it with my bass guitar and it sounds quite good. I also have it set up as a center channel for my HT, which can easily overpower the surrounds and provides as much bass as the "sub" I have.

I programmed the T39 sides in my CAM software this morning. I don't expect to make it anytime soon since my wife wouldn't be able to miss the big box (and I don't have a driver for it anyway). Anyone in my area want to trade a couple of sets of CNC'ed sides for a driver?

[DJPhatman]

Anyone in my area want to trade a couple of sets of CNC'ed sides for a driver?

Depends on where your area is! Fill out the rest of the profile info in the User Control Panel section available at the top of each page. Also, this depends on what driver you are seeking.

[AndreasMergner]

I'm going to use the Kappalite 3012LF. As I understand, that is the best driver for the T39. I don't think it makes sense to go through all the trouble of building the cab if you aren't going to put something good inside. Let's see, 10+ hours to build it, but I'll save $50 on the driver and get half the performance with the same size box....?