I can't even get past the panel jig....

[kynetx]

My table saw is somewhat non-standard. The miter channels are of the t-slot variety. I took a grinder to them and now they are just a standard slot, but not 3/4"

Anyway, I cut the strips to go down the channels and affixed my 3/4" slab of plywood to them. I simply cannot get the damn thing to track properly. It keeps getting stuck and I'm about to burn it. I've removed a surprising amount of material from the slats and it will go, but with an unnerving amount of force. Is there some way to treat the slats or the channels to get it to slide more smoothly?

[pwfirst]

Make sure everything is straight and smooth,: the track, the slat/slide. You can use candle wax as a lubricant Just rub it on, but if it is sticking that much, something is not straight. Make a new slide and adjust it until it slides easily, put it into the tract and then attach to the top board making sure every thing is square to the blade. Phil

[kynetx]

Would I be better off measuring the distance between the rails instead of just setting the sled on them?

[horst]

My table saw is somewhat non-standard. The miter channels are of the t-slot variety. I took a grinder to them and now they are just a standard slot, but not 3/4"

Anyway, I cut the strips to go down the channels and affixed my 3/4" slab of plywood to them. I simply cannot get the damn thing to track properly. It keeps getting stuck and I'm about to burn it. I've removed a surprising amount of material from the slats and it will go, but with an unnerving amount of force. Is there some way to treat the slats or the channels to get it to slide more smoothly?

You what? took a handheld angle grinder to your machined cast iron table?
and now you're surprised that it keeps jamming?

can you take a picture, although I'm not sure I will be able to look at it

[SoundInMotionDJ]

My table saw is somewhat non-standard. The miter channels are of the t-slot variety. I took a grinder to them and now they are just a standard slot, but not 3/4"

I'm not sure that is the approach I would have taken. T-slots are no big deal if you have runners...the runners just need to be cut to the width of the slot that was on the saw.

Look for specific areas on the runners and on the slot where binding is happening. Post a description or pics that describe the problem, and we may be able to come up with a good solution.

I always put a 1/16" chamfer on the runners of my jigs using a black plane. That really helps to improve the feel as the jig runs through the saw. About once a month, I put a coat of clear paste wax on the runners of all my jigs. That helps to keep everything running smoothly.

At this point, you may be better off beginning again by replacing the runners.

--Stan Graves

[chunkylover73]

I have a craftsman table saw that doesn't have standard 3/4" slots either - they are somewhere between 5/8" and 3/4". On top of that, they are t-slots too. I ripped a piece of 3/4" lumber to the proper slot height and used my router to notch it out so it would fit in the t-slot. I had to use a sander to sand down the 3/4" so that it fit into the slot. A lot of work but it's worth it. My jig works like a charm. I spray the slots with a silicone based lubricant so the runners don't bind up.

[kynetx]

Got it. I had to remove a little material on one of the slats.

I didn't have to go the whole length of the channel with the grinder, just remove about 4 tabs per side.

[phil]

Got it. I had to remove a little material on one of the slats.

I didn't have to go the whole length of the channel with the grinder, just remove about 4 tabs per side.

If you still have problems, I ended up getting these after spending days remaking multiple sleds and still not able to get strait cuts making my own sliders. These are adjustable, you just drill holes through your sled to the adjusters, so you can make small adjustments with the sled on the table.

http://incra.com/product_jfc_miterslider.htm

INCRA Miter Sliders 18” & 24"

I'm very much a novice to woodworking and had many frustrating days and a lot of cut panels that weren't square. I could never get pieces of wood perfect enough to run in my t-slots (again i'm very much a beginner with this stuff).

I purchased their sled also, but from what I've gathered on woodworking forums, these work great with a home made sled.

Now I cut 24" panels and they come out perfectly square (finally).

[kynetx]

That is pretty awesome, I'll have to give it a go.

[myn]

Why not just use a circular saw? I was in a similar situation having no miter slots in my Ryobi BT3 table saw. I decided instead to just use a circular saw and guide board.

Couldn't have been easier. Didn't have to lug the tablesaw out everytime I needed to make a cut. Just used 4 2x4s and a guideboard that took almost 15 mins to build. Using the guideboard makes things so much easier and precise.

[Tom Smit]

(Myn, did you sweep after you were done? or did the wind blow the saw dust away?)

[mlkras]

To Myn,

I also have a Ryobi BT300 saw with their built in sliding sled. Their sled, while good for many things, does not have a very secure back rest. I recently found more conventional sliding tracks on ebay that are made by ryobi and bolt directly to the saw using screw holes that are already on the saw. When I installed them they were dead parallel to the blade. I now use these tracks with my panel jig.

I now regret that I was too cheap to buy the outfeed table and the side support table.

[myn]

To Myn,

I also have a Ryobi BT300 saw with their built in sliding sled. Their sled, while good for many things, does not have a very secure back rest. I recently found more conventional sliding tracks on ebay that are made by ryobi and bolt directly to the saw using screw holes that are already on the saw. When I installed them they were dead parallel to the blade. I now use these tracks with my panel jig.

I now regret that I was too cheap to buy the outfeed table and the side support table.

Nice! Got a link to those sliding tracks handy?

Thanks