Plastic Corners and Duratex

Helpful hints on how to build 'em, and where to get the stuff you need.

What kind of protective hardware do you use on your Duratex-finished cabs?

Plastic or metal corners
6
29%
Rubber feet
5
24%
Both corners AND feet
8
38%
Neither corners NOR feet
0
No votes
Other
1
5%
Nothing
1
5%
 
Total votes: 21

Message
Author
WB
Posts: 1745
Joined: Sat May 13, 2006 3:06 pm
Location: Ontario. Yours To Discover

#16 Post by WB »

N.Webber wrote:The padded cover is then slipped over and the whole pack is tied with one ratchet strap.

Works great.

Like this:
Image

:)
Nice covers. Were they made locally, or are those custom covers available commercially?

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N.Webber
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#17 Post by N.Webber »

These ware custom made locally according to my drawing.
Cost me about $100.- each.

:)
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MichaelVee
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Aug 12, 2006 11:57 am
Location: Knoxville, TN

#18 Post by MichaelVee »

Is anyone using metal corners? How does one decide between metal and plastic ones?

Over the long run, I would say metal ones hold up better.

Do metal corners stick out enough to protect cabinets when they are slid on sides and back?

Metal ones are a bit more expensive, but not that much.

Otherwise, is the decision mainly based on looks?

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David Carter
Posts: 1824
Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2007 7:20 am
Location: (East) Tennessee, USA

#19 Post by David Carter »

MichaelVee wrote:Is anyone using metal corners?
I've been wondering the same thing, Mike. I've been trying to picture in my head what corners will look like on my upcoming Duratex-ed DR250's, and I'm thinking that I'd like the look of black metal corners better than the plastic. However, I'm guessing that the plastic ones protrude farther and, therefore, offer more protection from anything other than a bump directly on the corner. Of course, this is all a guess because I have plastic corners on my carpeted O10, but I've never used metal corners.
Dave

Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
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Tim A
Posts: 3663
Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 5:23 pm
Location: SE Michigan, Licensed BF Builder

#20 Post by Tim A »

I'm using metal on my current DR200 build, but for different reasons. I wanted the front corners protected, but needed to minimize the gap between cabs for line array use. The plastic corners are quite a bit thicker than the metal, so I went with metal.

Metal corners don't stick out enough to use them as glides. The screw heads stick out farther than the corners themselves. On plastic, they're recessed.

I am very close (within days) of having the sytem done and will post some pics.

Dave: If you want metal corners that will stack and cover as much of the corner as the plastic, try these. I used them on a customer's cabinet at his request. They looked REALLY nice, but they're expensive as hell.

NOTE: All the metal corners I've run across require a 1/2" roundover bit, whereas the plastic corners need only a 3/8" bit. That's quite a lot of added material removal on 1/2" ply.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=262-165

Wes Whitmore
Posts: 401
Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 3:51 pm
Location: Columbus, OH

#21 Post by Wes Whitmore »

I'm using metal corners as well. They are low profile like everyone said, and the screws that hold them in sit on top of the corner. I use flat pan screws from PE, and they look good. Not great for stacking. I would put rubber feet on the bottom of the box. Either at the same hieght so the corners just touch, or even a little higher. There is no "locking" to the metal corners with other metal corners, like plastic stacking corners allow.
Wes

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