Plastic Corners and Duratex
- David Carter
- Posts: 1824
- Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2007 7:20 am
- Location: (East) Tennessee, USA
Plastic Corners and Duratex
My only build so far has been a single Omni 10 which I carpeted. With a carpeted cab, the plastic corner protectors make a lot of sense to me and I like the look. However, I'm soon going to build a pair of DR250's which I intended to finish with Duratex. To me the plastic corners look out of place on a Duratex finish. I would think that rubber feet would be a better choice.
What do you do for you Duratex-finished cabs? Corners? Rubber feet? Both? Neither?
What do you do for you Duratex-finished cabs? Corners? Rubber feet? Both? Neither?
Dave
Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)
Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)
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- Posts: 2623
- Joined: Sun Jan 28, 2007 11:13 am
- Location: Denver, CO
- Contact:
- David Carter
- Posts: 1824
- Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2007 7:20 am
- Location: (East) Tennessee, USA
I'm glad to hear that yours blend in. Maybe that means it's just the lighting in the pictures I've seen that makes them seem to stick out like a sore thumb.gdougherty wrote:Duratex w/ plastic corners. The black corners blend and I dented a corner shortly after the build of a Titan without them.
Dave
Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)
Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)
Use corners, rubber feet and extrusions.

Want max protection during load in/load out.

Want max protection during load in/load out.
Currently running:
Four Titan 48's, Six Omnitop 12's, Two Wedgehorn 10's, Omni12 2-10
Also Built: Omni15 Tallboy, Omni10.5.
'The hardest material on earth is the human skull'. How do we know this? Try pounding a new idea into one.
Four Titan 48's, Six Omnitop 12's, Two Wedgehorn 10's, Omni12 2-10
Also Built: Omni15 Tallboy, Omni10.5.
'The hardest material on earth is the human skull'. How do we know this? Try pounding a new idea into one.
Re: Plastic Corners and Duratex
Don't think about looks, the corners are fuctional. No manufacturer puts them on because they look nice, they do it because corners take the most abuse and ding easily.David Carter wrote: To me the plastic corners look out of place on a Duratex finish.
- David Carter
- Posts: 1824
- Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2007 7:20 am
- Location: (East) Tennessee, USA
Re: Plastic Corners and Duratex
Of course you are right, Tim. The only reason the thought even crossed my mind is because I noticed that several of the nicer looking photos I've seen recently of finished cabs did NOT have any kind of protection on the corners. They looked really nice, and it just made me wonder how common it was to put corners on a Duratex cab or if it was more common on carpeted cabs. But judging from the responses so far, it sounds like the cab finish has nothing to do with whether or not people choose to user corners.Tim Ard wrote:Don't think about looks, the corners are fuctional. No manufacturer puts them on because they look nice, they do it because corners take the most abuse and ding easily.David Carter wrote: To me the plastic corners look out of place on a Duratex finish.
Dave
Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)
Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)
You either have to handle them carefully or be prepared fix from time to time. For me, it's not an option. My cabs would look like hell in short order if I left corners off.
I have eliminated feet from my tops though. It makes no sense for PA use if they're being put on sticks. Subs get all kinds of feet. Bottom, sides, any possible way it could be set up.
I have eliminated feet from my tops though. It makes no sense for PA use if they're being put on sticks. Subs get all kinds of feet. Bottom, sides, any possible way it could be set up.
-
- Posts: 2623
- Joined: Sun Jan 28, 2007 11:13 am
- Location: Denver, CO
- Contact:
I opted to skip feet on my subs, though I just use a dolly rather than casters. I just rest them on the corners and eventually will have to replace them when the interlocing corners get torn up enough. A full set is pretty cheap though so it's no biggie. That's another thing corners do, keep the sides off the ground and protect the side finish.
-
- Posts: 2601
- Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 10:47 am
- Location: Memphis, TN
- Bill Fitzmaurice
- Site Admin
- Posts: 28916
- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm
Those are also speakers that, because of their cost, usually are transported in road cases. I'm of the opinion that the product of my hard work deserves all the protection I can give it.Mark Coward wrote:I don't like the plastic corners, I put rubber feet only. I want my cabs to look comparable to top-of-the-line gear like EAW & JBL, no corners in sight:
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- Posts: 113
- Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 1:15 pm
- Location: Manchester, UK
- Contact:
I like the extrusion on the T30 shown on the main site but I'm not sure what to do around the areas that are open, like the open area of the horn. Does anyone know what to do here? It would look crap to just have the extrusion hanging over.
Bill, do you have a higher res picture of that T30 so I can see how to do it?
Cheers.
Bill, do you have a higher res picture of that T30 so I can see how to do it?
Cheers.
This is what I did with my 290s.
Each cab has four plastic feet (at the bottom…) and four mating recesses at the top.
Caster board has angled blocks to match the cab's bottom slope, also with same recesses.
Here:

Each caster board caries two DR290s.
The lower cab sits on the caster board and the second one is rotated 180 deg. and fits on top of the first.
The padded cover is then slipped over and the whole pack is tied with one ratchet strap.
Works great.
Like this:


Each cab has four plastic feet (at the bottom…) and four mating recesses at the top.
Caster board has angled blocks to match the cab's bottom slope, also with same recesses.
Here:

Each caster board caries two DR290s.
The lower cab sits on the caster board and the second one is rotated 180 deg. and fits on top of the first.
The padded cover is then slipped over and the whole pack is tied with one ratchet strap.
Works great.
Like this:


Authorized Builder
- 6 DR290
- Omni10.5
- AT, TAT
- Tuba 48
- 2 WH10
- Truck Tuba
http://www.boniton.co.il
http://www.bt-12.com Balanced Tilting Sounds Better...
- 6 DR290
- Omni10.5
- AT, TAT
- Tuba 48
- 2 WH10
- Truck Tuba
http://www.boniton.co.il
http://www.bt-12.com Balanced Tilting Sounds Better...
- Art Coates
- Posts: 299
- Joined: Fri May 26, 2006 1:36 am
- Location: Indiana
-
- Posts: 401
- Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 3:51 pm
- Location: Columbus, OH
A friend of mine uses the SRX's (unbelievably loud speakers. Stupidy loud, really). He has a speaker sock that he puts over it. They are small speakers, and light. A roadcase would double their weight. The covers work great.Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Those are also speakers that, because of their cost, usually are transported in road cases. I'm of the opinion that the product of my hard work deserves all the protection I can give it.Mark Coward wrote:I don't like the plastic corners, I put rubber feet only. I want my cabs to look comparable to top-of-the-line gear like EAW & JBL, no corners in sight:
Wes