Alright, this feels like a weapon of mass production, super satisfying.
cab c and d halfway done, in around 4 hours then time was up :D
Pre-fabricated flanges and the first two panels before putting them on the side. With the one-piece-flange(s) no problem at all.
As spoken elsewhere, doing the blocks on two baffles at once, just by weight and let it settle while doing 1/2 on both
Et voila :)
Straightend the baffle to avoid past errors
On both sides
Next panel
And completed to do all the braces
marked and drilled and set the screws for all braces, but then time was up.
But this runs like a factory, very nice feeling.
I think when set of 4 is done i will have to run it fully :)
8*T30 30" dual 12" european
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Marflinger
- Posts: 133
- Joined: Thu Dec 04, 2025 1:20 pm
- Location: Germany-Blackforest
Re: 8*T30 30" dual 12" european
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DR250 (2 done, 2 to go)
8 T30 (in building phase)
driverack PA+
Wharfedale DP4065F
Prokustik FP14000
8 T30 (in building phase)
driverack PA+
Wharfedale DP4065F
Prokustik FP14000
- Bill Fitzmaurice
- Site Admin
- Posts: 29105
- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm
Re: 8*T30 30" dual 12" european
Regarding the blocks they should be either screwed or clamped while the adhesive sets. That forces the adhesive to expand into the pores of the wood for a better bond. Without pressure on the blocks the expanding adhesive can push the blocks away from the baffle and the bond won't be as good. It's not that big a deal with the blocks, as they're not structural and once the driver screws are driven they have no shear forces working on them, but not giving Murphy's Law an opportunity to result is always a good idea.
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Marflinger
- Posts: 133
- Joined: Thu Dec 04, 2025 1:20 pm
- Location: Germany-Blackforest
Re: 8*T30 30" dual 12" european
Yeah i had the side panels for four other cabs on top, as well as all the precut braces and what was around...i think it was sufficiently pressed, but i wil try that before i don't reach there anymore.Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Sun Apr 19, 2026 1:20 pm Regarding the blocks they should be either screwed or clamped while the adhesive sets. That forces the adhesive to expand into the pores of the wood for a better bond. Without pressure on the blocks the expanding adhesive can push the blocks away from the baffle and the bond won't be as good. It's not that big a deal with the blocks, as they're not structural and once the driver screws are driven they have no shear forces working on them, but not giving Murphy's Law an opportunity to result is always a good idea.
it was not pushed away from the wood, they sit flush.
avoiding avoidable failures def a good thing yes
Edit:
This was the pressing, baffles with blocks are the first layer:
It was just about pressing all at once, not clamping every block on its own.
DR250 (2 done, 2 to go)
8 T30 (in building phase)
driverack PA+
Wharfedale DP4065F
Prokustik FP14000
8 T30 (in building phase)
driverack PA+
Wharfedale DP4065F
Prokustik FP14000
-
Marflinger
- Posts: 133
- Joined: Thu Dec 04, 2025 1:20 pm
- Location: Germany-Blackforest
Re: 8*T30 30" dual 12" european
Not further on the cabs, but the shoes arrived - life is good again :)
The rest of the cabs about to come, as soon as possible Even two wires pretty easy compared to my previous solution.
The rest of the cabs about to come, as soon as possible Even two wires pretty easy compared to my previous solution.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
DR250 (2 done, 2 to go)
8 T30 (in building phase)
driverack PA+
Wharfedale DP4065F
Prokustik FP14000
8 T30 (in building phase)
driverack PA+
Wharfedale DP4065F
Prokustik FP14000
Re: 8*T30 30" dual 12" european
Looking good so far!