8*T30 30" dual 12" european

[Seth]

For the best control, when handling the subs, is to be able to have one's hands just outside the hips....

I don't think I'm picturing what you're picturing.

Tom the Dom. Hahaha

[Tom Smit]

Oh boy.
One has more control on handling an object when the hands are hip/shoulder width apart.
Does that make more sense?

[Marflinger]

I just wasn't sure if there is any acoustical implication in it i missed; sorry for opening that box.

But i see your point yeah. 30" width is not ideal in terms of handling; but it is still handleable or what i consider as handleable. When stacking i am not alone; placing three on top of each other would be probably a bit annoying. But with two sets of hands i see it working quite well.

still on arguing about drivers prices; so far the first position has 116 per driver which is probably close enough to take it...waiting for others to compete. Should've bought last year at 107 :D
The winter gave its finest show again, still on it -.-. i hope i can go on the wood soon...

[mtglass]

Sounds like a ton of fun Marflinger! Let us know how it goes.

[Marflinger]

Sooo, sadly the bad weather stayed a bit longer, and then the workload escalated in an unhealthy amount.
i got the shop sorted, and got the wood precut on a wall-saw (what a simple way compared to my little tablesaw)
And now all here, and i have to get back to work -.-

16 sheets for 8 cabs

The same 16 sheets, cut and around the whole room :)


But i'm on it.

Two or three thoughts i got inbetween:

Wouldn't it be beneficial, to cut out the driver access cover, and install the flanges for the cover to sit on immediatly afterwards? I would have a fixed ruler for all the panels that are part of the chamber, and i thought of pre-doing the flanges in one piece to do all of them at once.
Anyone did this?

I stepped back from doing a router jig for all the panels, i'll just do a jig to draw all the lines. But no benefit from routing it in, would need to control the aligning anyway for each panel. But to draw, one stencil should be fine. Will be the next step :)

I think i'll do then in pairs each, two fit to my space quite well.
And when the first two are done, i hopefully learned a lot for the rest :)

About the wheels: i thought about not putting them on the box (4 bluewheels was the idea, not these corner wheels) but rather build two wheelboards i can always place a pair on each for rolling them around. To get a flat surface all around the cab without fixed wheels. Any thoughts to that?

[Bruce Weldy]

To get a flat surface all around the cab without fixed wheels. Any thoughts to that?

I used standard casters mounted in the pockets. Use rubber feet on the four bottom corners and attach the casters where the are just above the floor. Tilt back and they roll. Set upright and they are stable.

[Bruce Weldy]

Of course, you're building T30s, so tilting and rolling is gonna' be really hard unless you are 4 feet tall. Have you considered puting 4 casters on the back of the cab surface mounted like the QSC subs?

[Marflinger]

Of course, you're building T30s, so tilting and rolling is gonna' be really hard unless you are 4 feet tall. Have you considered puting 4 casters on the back of the cab surface mounted like the QSC subs?

Well yes, this was the starting point for the wheels. Now i thought about the same wheel configuration, but on a separated panel...like a wheelboard.

I'd do two wheelboards, for rolling them around here an for loading. Unloading will be no wheelable situation, and so the wheels can stay away.

option to build an all terrain wheelboard with tires, to have the unloading wheelable as well. But the concept in question was to separate the wheels from the cab to its own wheelboard, no matter which wheels.

And i'll clamp two (on top of each other) together, tilting should be no problem
the corner casters are the option with the less terrain capabilities, which is why i dropped that.

[Marflinger]

Aand i got a bit done :)

Drawing the template

Template cut (and stiffend, too thin when left alone...but in this way, keeps the form and i double checked before stiffening) only the red lines relevant to copy to the side.
Drilled through two sides, they will be the first t30 (cab A in this case).

Panel one and two fixed

The counterpart and both access covers.

To the inner frame to carry the lid later: i thought about adding it now.
I can do it in one piece, i would have a fixed ruler to attach the next two panels - i only see benefits from that. Anything i forget? Sure, doing it in 4 pieces is less wood used as i can take cutoffs. But i think i have enough, the inner hole can be recycled as braces...

Baffle gives me a problem, drivers not here yet as they have deliverytimes of doom...
Would it be risky to go by the drawing from the manufacturer?
Maybe just a bit bigger hole for safety?

[shawn_g]

Baffle gives me a problem, drivers not here yet as they have deliverytimes of doom...
Would it be risky to go by the drawing from the manufacturer?
Maybe just a bit bigger hole for safety?

Looking good! I've used Eminence specs before for the baffle hole diameter and it was spot on. I'm not sure I'd go any larger than the specs because it'll be hard to get the driver to seal.

[Marflinger]

As shown here, the inner diameter of 281mm (or 11.06 inch) would be the diameter of my cutout ideally; as the screw center forms a circle of 297mm and i'd add at least 6 mm of wood around the screw center (3mm screws) this would give a maximum cutout of 285mm in diameter - which is what i would choose from here. The pressing area should be enough for an airtight seal i think - and the space for the soft border of the cone should be enough to avoid contact.

Any concerns about that?

This is the driver in question, see the cone border.

[shawn_g]

1000041998.jpg

As shown here, the inner diameter of 281mm (or 11.06 inch) would be the diameter of my cutout ideally; as the screw center forms a circle of 297mm and i'd add at least 6 mm of wood around the screw center (3mm screws) this would give a maximum cutout of 285mm in diameter - which is what i would choose from here. The pressing area should be enough for an airtight seal i think - and the space for the soft border of the cone should be enough to avoid contact.

Any concerns about that?
1000041999.jpg
This is the driver in question, see the cone border.

Sorry, I forgot that the T30 mounts with the cone facing into the baffle when I made my comment. Realistically, it's probably fine, but it's definitely a risky move without the driver in hand to measure the gasket diameter

[Marflinger]

my thought was, that the cone border (don't know the english term) is the largest when the cone is not stretched out, as the rounded edge takes the cone movement it flattens when the cone moves in any direction. so the outside of the cone border "should" be fine as hole diameter? Adding 4 mm more in diameter should give an additional clearance of 2mm all around the cone, so it "should" be fine?

i already triggered the supplier, to maybe split the shipping into two parts so i have some of them early to measure that...not sure if this works out.

[shawn_g]

my thought was, that the cone border (don't know the english term) is the largest when the cone is not stretched out, as the rounded edge takes the cone movement it flattens when the cone moves in any direction. so the outside of the cone border "should" be fine as hole diameter? Adding 4 mm more in diameter should give an additional clearance of 2mm all around the cone, so it "should" be fine?

i already triggered the supplier, to maybe split the shipping into two parts so i have some of them early to measure that...not sure if this works out.

I think the biggest issue is that the gasket is so small near the bolt/screw holes. The part you're referring to (cone border) is typically called the surround in English.

If it were me, I'd probably wait till I had the driver in my hands to be sure. Is there a chance you can get the manufacturer or the supplier to measure it and give you the exact number?

[Marflinger]

Well, both will just refer to the drawing and not unpack and measure a piece. I think the drawing is true and accurate, just not sure how cone movement effects the surrounding (thank you for the assist on the word) and i want to avoid having contact areas here...
I think i will wait for now, i hope it is not too long...
I'll prepare the first baffle with the 281mm cutouts and increase that when needed. But to be sure i need to mount the drivers and give them some voltage to move everything i fear.