First Build : Plywood Sourcing Challenges

[Joman116]

Hello Bill et al.,

For context, I’m based in Dallas, TX, USA.

After a lot of thought, I’ve decided that my goal for 2026 is to build a BFM cab myself. My target is the almighty T60 (20" wide). I purchased the plans a few weeks ago.

I consider myself fairly handy when it comes to DIY projects, but I don’t have any prior woodworking experience.

I’m currently piecemealing the build, starting with materials. First up: plywood—and this is where I’m running into challenges.

The plans call for 12mm plywood, preferably Baltic birch. Unfortunately, pricing these days is quite high—around $90+ for a 4' × 8' sheet. For a 20" wide build, I believe I’ll need three sheets to be safe, which puts me close to $300 in wood alone. That’s fairly cost-prohibitive, especially since this is more of a hobby / “try it out” project.

The plans also mention Arauco ACX as an acceptable alternative, but I’ve had no luck finding it locally.

I do see many suppliers offering “birch” plywood, but I’m unsure about the quality. The plans specifically advise avoiding Asian birch and any birch with a thin outer veneer (as prone to delamination), which makes the selection even more confusing.

Could anyone point me in the right direction for a more cost-effective plywood option that still keeps weight low while remaining sturdy? Has anyone had good results with alternative materials?

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

Note: Thanks Bruce for the email conversation you provided. You had informed the baltic birch is only way to go

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

It's not the species that matters so much as the number of plies, at least five, with no thin veneer. That leaves out most so-called furniture grade, which have a thin veneer. BB, BTW, isn't lightweight.

[Joman116]

It's not the species that matters so much as the number of plies, at least five, with no thin veneer. That leaves out most so-called furniture grade, which have a thin veneer. BB, BTW, isn't lightweight.

So Baltic Birch has No veneer?

Also, on the main web page where the description States lightweight compared to the competition, what's the benchmark that it's against? Is it MDF?

I have a 20" t39 that's made out of arauco acx and it's super light, maybe 65lb. To draw a comparison what would it weigh if it was Baltic Birch? I just need estimates as I have no past background in this space

[Tom Smit]

So Baltic Birch has No veneer?

One could say that BB has veneers, but, the key distinction is that BB doesn't have paper-thin veneers. Often, different types of plywood have a paper-thin veneer and are then called Maple, Oak, Walnut, Baltic Birch, and yet the core plywood is not that particular type of wood.
As Bill said, the minimum number of plies is five. When you are looking, have a look at the whole stack of plywood, and make sure that the voids in the plies are of minimal number and size.

[Joman116]

So Baltic Birch has No veneer?

One could say that BB has veneers, but, the key distinction is that BB doesn't have paper-thin veneers. Often, different types of plywood have a paper-thin veneer and are then called Maple, Oak, Walnut, Baltic Birch, and yet the core plywood is not that particular type of wood.
As Bill said, the minimum number of plies is five. When you are looking, have a look at the whole stack of plywood, and make sure that the voids in the plies are of minimal number and size.

Thanks for the information Tom. Do you have further knowledge of the arauco acx called out in the drawings? There isn't more details about that specific model number. I searched the arauco website and it doesn't yield any proper results correlating directly.

[Strange Kevin]

AuraCo is sort of a name brand I think. Similar to Radiata pine at my local Home Depot, unfortunately I usually only see it in 3/4" ish there in my area.
ACX is the surface ratting. Think of it like A side = good, B = OK, C = a little rough, D = Dog house.. X is exterior grade?
AC = one good side, one noticeably worse side.

Poplar ply is usually a good alternative to Baltic Birch for weight savings with similar quality.

If you want to save some money on the first one you could go down a grade or 2 on ply. It won't be as fun to work with, will likely warp a lot more that Baltic Birtch, and the final result will take more bondo and sanding to be presentable. The species of wood doesn't matter, just 5 or more ply (for strength) and no super thin outer veneer as they are prone to delaminating.
I wouldn't recommend building a whole system out of the "cheap" stuff but it's not too bad for a once in awhile project.

Might give these guys a call if it's not too far to drive.
https://www.plywoodcompany.com/pd/syp-bc-15-32/468
https://www.plywoodcompany.com/pd/rated ... 32-apa/474
Another option,
https://centralhardwoods.com/products/s ... ods/arauco
Might only be 3/4" here too...

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

True Baltic Birch has no veneer. All of the plies are the same thickness, the same species. Veneer is what's used over a low grade wood to provide an outer layer that will take a natural finish. BB has no need for that as it takes a natural finish.

[Rich4349]

A key term to keep an eye out for is "cabinet grade". While it's no guarantee that some merchant won't use that term inaccurately, it usually indicates high grade, no voids, no "football" hole patches, no thin veneer.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

'Cabinet grade' at the big boxes around me have a thin veneer.

[Bruce Weldy]

'Cabinet grade' at the big boxes around me have a thin veneer.

+1

All cabinet grade means to me is 3/4" with a thin veneer.

[Seth]

The only time I've seen the words "cabinet grade" was at Home Depot, in the description for their 3/4" Arauco... unfortunately they weren't able to get 1/2".

Similarly confusing, in my area, Baltic Birch is sometimes cataloged as "veneer ply", which I assume is just a way to say the individual plies are thin.

To the OP, I've build several cabs of poor surface quality, CDX exterior sheathing ply (5 ply). It's not as nice to work with as it tends to warp and the surface finish is shite. But, with a little extra work, the warps come out, the surface blemishes get filled and sanded, and I ended up with cabs that looked and performed as intended and were a little lighter than had I built them with BB.

[Rich4349]

I stand corrected. Although, the times I've seen and purchased "cabinet grade" plywood were when I had driven 2 hours to get to a lumber supplier that obviously sells to tradesmen, ACTUAL cabinet makers. 60" x 60" sheets.