auto tuba plans?

[J_Dunavin]

well, my $35 MCM driver finally gave it up after 13 years. I think the only reason actually is that i dropped it and i bet i messed up the alignment and then tried to play it and cooked the coil... it's froze solid.
You can still get the MCM diver from Newark.
Curious if the plans have changed since 2012?
Maybe i'll build it wider and go with that Dayton 10" option... though sure was fun to let people listen then tell then what it really was

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

No changes other than more driver recommendations. Recommended tens are the Dayton DCS 255-4 and LS10-44, Ciare HS251 and PowerBass S-1004.

[Seth]

Joe, send me a PM. I'll send you an MCM driver for whatever the shipping cost is.

[J_Dunavin]

Thanks for the quick replies!

Seth, i sent you a message

[J_Dunavin]

Why oh why did I use Loctite on these 8/32 screws

All but three of them came out ok, had to get a little creative in getting the other ones out
I just ended up using some much wider 10/32 t nuts and screws that I already had. Wood screws may have been better, but i only have one door on this guy and the t nuts are handy when your reaching around ... trying to blindly find the hole.


Thank you Seth, got the replacement MCM in there and we are back in business!

[jimbo7]

I remember the agony of getting to the back screws on my first AT build. I then purchased a right angle screwdriver ratchet and all was well (easier at least). When I build my newest AT I made access panel on both sides. Almost a requirement and not much more work.