T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed
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Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed
Nice project Grant! Now, go thump 'em and see what ya' got!
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
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- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:50 pm
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed
Most Victorious Triumph.. My Victory Trick..?
Those moments when you find a better way are sweet, nice one man
AT8 14", AT10 19", T30 28" LAB12, T48 36" 3015LF, THT 20" LAB15, SLA 4x3"/4x4", CArray 6x4", TLAH, TLAP, J10 FA, J12 FA, OT8 CD, OT12 FA, OT15 CD, SLAP 2x6"/4x6", WH8, DR280 MA, XF210. Next J10L
Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed
I've always wondered if there is a router template bit that cuts, say 1/16" more with a bearing guide. Then you could use the existing hole, make it 1/16" bigger, then flush cut the other 1/16" out with a normal flush cut bit. Rinse, repeat to go larger 1/8" on the diameter at a time...Grant Bunter wrote: ↑Sun Sep 17, 2023 12:54 am I didn't have to cut the baffle out for the last 2 cabs.
I found these circular 60 grit flap disks, which let me enlarge the driver spacing without removing the baffle.
For this revision, I nominate them MVT:
20230915_103842.jpg
I like the flapper wheels though, I might pick some of those up just in case...
Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed
That's why 3d printers are so great. You can design and print a baffle router template in a few hours and it'll fit perfect. That's what I did recently to replace the driver in my AT. You can't fit a router in the chamber, but I was able to make a new baffle and mount it to the existing baffle.howiez wrote: ↑Wed Sep 20, 2023 9:10 am I've always wondered if there is a router template bit that cuts, say 1/16" more with a bearing guide. Then you could use the existing hole, make it 1/16" bigger, then flush cut the other 1/16" out with a normal flush cut bit. Rinse, repeat to go larger 1/8" on the diameter at a time...
I like the flapper wheels though, I might pick some of those up just in case...
BFM builds:
XF212
T24 BP102 24"
2x SLA's 6-5" mids, 9- gt-302's
2x AT 14" MCM 55-2421
TrT 5" MCM 55-2421
AT 18" JBL GTO804
2x OT12 flat array
2x SLA Pro 2-Alpha 6's 2-Goldwoods
2x T39 24" 3012lf
Simplex 10 BP102
XF212
T24 BP102 24"
2x SLA's 6-5" mids, 9- gt-302's
2x AT 14" MCM 55-2421
TrT 5" MCM 55-2421
AT 18" JBL GTO804
2x OT12 flat array
2x SLA Pro 2-Alpha 6's 2-Goldwoods
2x T39 24" 3012lf
Simplex 10 BP102
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- Posts: 6912
- Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
- Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
- Contact:
Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed
Most valuable tool man. Just like a 10mm socket. Or that digital angle guide I keep telling you to pick up

My old makita router has a follower that screws into the bottom of the baseplate. It requires adding about 1/16" for the template cutout to end up with the workpiece the right size. You can also get router bits with the roller bearing at the top (I think it's called a follower bit) to route to correct size with the correct template.howiez wrote: ↑Wed Sep 20, 2023 9:10 am I've always wondered if there is a router template bit that cuts, say 1/16" more with a bearing guide. Then you could use the existing hole, make it 1/16" bigger, then flush cut the other 1/16" out with a normal flush cut bit. Rinse, repeat to go larger 1/8" on the diameter at a time...
I like the flapper wheels though, I might pick some of those up just in case...
The issue was depth though. Setting up the template with enough clearance to clear the Panel 6 extension (and the same for height for the upper part of the template to baffle height to maintain the correct angle) means a 2" bit just isn't long enough for all the required routing. It might do the driver one, but not the anchor part. While 3" bits are available, it would have taken weeks for one to turn up in the mail. Do get those flappers though. 1 is 1/2", the other 1"...
My ply templates work finejimbo7 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 20, 2023 8:04 pm That's why 3d printers are so great. You can design and print a baffle router template in a few hours and it'll fit perfect. That's what I did recently to replace the driver in my AT. You can't fit a router in the chamber, but I was able to make a new baffle and mount it to the existing baffle.

Still, you can 3D print yours, so you should!
I can't imagine doing what you did for your AT working in a T39 though, unless you also took a slice out of the top of the chamber.
No bid deal I guess, since that's how they use to be made, but I was trying to minimise potential leak spots...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed
I just appreciate the ingenuity and abstract thinking people come up withGrant Bunter wrote: ↑Wed Sep 20, 2023 8:53 pm I can't imagine doing what you did for your AT working in a T39 though, unless you also took a slice out of the top of the chamber.
No bid deal I guess, since that's how they use to be made, but I was trying to minimise potential leak spots...
Oh I made sure it wasn't gonna leak. Plenty of PL and screws to keep the baffle to baffle surface airtight. And some decorative schmooing along the edges a la bathroom caulking style. It's a band-aid fix and if I ever blow another driver I'll probably retire the cab and built another, but bigger to house these Infinity 10's I have.
BFM builds:
XF212
T24 BP102 24"
2x SLA's 6-5" mids, 9- gt-302's
2x AT 14" MCM 55-2421
TrT 5" MCM 55-2421
AT 18" JBL GTO804
2x OT12 flat array
2x SLA Pro 2-Alpha 6's 2-Goldwoods
2x T39 24" 3012lf
Simplex 10 BP102
XF212
T24 BP102 24"
2x SLA's 6-5" mids, 9- gt-302's
2x AT 14" MCM 55-2421
TrT 5" MCM 55-2421
AT 18" JBL GTO804
2x OT12 flat array
2x SLA Pro 2-Alpha 6's 2-Goldwoods
2x T39 24" 3012lf
Simplex 10 BP102
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- Posts: 559
- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:50 pm
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed
Grant Bunter wrote: ↑Wed Sep 20, 2023 8:53 pm Most valuable tool man. Just like a 10mm socket. Or that digital angle guide I keep telling you to pick up![]()
Ah Roger, I've lost all my 10mm sockets, and if I need an angle guide, I'll pop over and borrow/lose yours mate!
Absolutely
AT8 14", AT10 19", T30 28" LAB12, T48 36" 3015LF, THT 20" LAB15, SLA 4x3"/4x4", CArray 6x4", TLAH, TLAP, J10 FA, J12 FA, OT8 CD, OT12 FA, OT15 CD, SLAP 2x6"/4x6", WH8, DR280 MA, XF210. Next J10L
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- Posts: 6912
- Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
- Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
- Contact:
Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed
Haha, welcome any time!Keryn O'Shea wrote: ↑Fri Sep 22, 2023 4:15 am Ah Roger, I've lost all my 10mm sockets, and if I need an angle guide, I'll pop over and borrow/lose yours mate!
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...