T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed

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Bruce Weldy
Posts: 8538
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed

#76 Post by Bruce Weldy »

Nice project Grant! Now, go thump 'em and see what ya' got!

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

Keryn O'Shea
Posts: 559
Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:50 pm
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed

#77 Post by Keryn O'Shea »

Grant Bunter wrote: Sun Sep 17, 2023 12:54 am For this revision, I nominate them MVT:
Most Victorious Triumph.. My Victory Trick..?
Those moments when you find a better way are sweet, nice one man
AT8 14", AT10 19", T30 28" LAB12, T48 36" 3015LF, THT 20" LAB15, SLA 4x3"/4x4", CArray 6x4", TLAH, TLAP, J10 FA, J12 FA, OT8 CD, OT12 FA, OT15 CD, SLAP 2x6"/4x6", WH8, DR280 MA, XF210. Next J10L

howiez
Posts: 382
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:23 pm
Location: Fox Valley, Wisconsin

Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed

#78 Post by howiez »

Grant Bunter wrote: Sun Sep 17, 2023 12:54 am I didn't have to cut the baffle out for the last 2 cabs.
I found these circular 60 grit flap disks, which let me enlarge the driver spacing without removing the baffle.
For this revision, I nominate them MVT:
20230915_103842.jpg
I've always wondered if there is a router template bit that cuts, say 1/16" more with a bearing guide. Then you could use the existing hole, make it 1/16" bigger, then flush cut the other 1/16" out with a normal flush cut bit. Rinse, repeat to go larger 1/8" on the diameter at a time...

I like the flapper wheels though, I might pick some of those up just in case...

jimbo7
Posts: 874
Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2012 10:45 am
Location: St. Louis

Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed

#79 Post by jimbo7 »

howiez wrote: Wed Sep 20, 2023 9:10 am I've always wondered if there is a router template bit that cuts, say 1/16" more with a bearing guide. Then you could use the existing hole, make it 1/16" bigger, then flush cut the other 1/16" out with a normal flush cut bit. Rinse, repeat to go larger 1/8" on the diameter at a time...

I like the flapper wheels though, I might pick some of those up just in case...
That's why 3d printers are so great. You can design and print a baffle router template in a few hours and it'll fit perfect. That's what I did recently to replace the driver in my AT. You can't fit a router in the chamber, but I was able to make a new baffle and mount it to the existing baffle.
BFM builds:
XF212
T24 BP102 24"
2x SLA's 6-5" mids, 9- gt-302's
2x AT 14" MCM 55-2421
TrT 5" MCM 55-2421
AT 18" JBL GTO804
2x OT12 flat array
2x SLA Pro 2-Alpha 6's 2-Goldwoods
2x T39 24" 3012lf
Simplex 10 BP102

Grant Bunter
Posts: 6912
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
Contact:

Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed

#80 Post by Grant Bunter »

Keryn O'Shea wrote: Wed Sep 20, 2023 6:18 am
Grant Bunter wrote: Sun Sep 17, 2023 12:54 am For this revision, I nominate them MVT:
Most Victorious Triumph.. My Victory Trick..?
Most valuable tool man. Just like a 10mm socket. Or that digital angle guide I keep telling you to pick up :)
howiez wrote: Wed Sep 20, 2023 9:10 am I've always wondered if there is a router template bit that cuts, say 1/16" more with a bearing guide. Then you could use the existing hole, make it 1/16" bigger, then flush cut the other 1/16" out with a normal flush cut bit. Rinse, repeat to go larger 1/8" on the diameter at a time...

I like the flapper wheels though, I might pick some of those up just in case...
My old makita router has a follower that screws into the bottom of the baseplate. It requires adding about 1/16" for the template cutout to end up with the workpiece the right size. You can also get router bits with the roller bearing at the top (I think it's called a follower bit) to route to correct size with the correct template.

The issue was depth though. Setting up the template with enough clearance to clear the Panel 6 extension (and the same for height for the upper part of the template to baffle height to maintain the correct angle) means a 2" bit just isn't long enough for all the required routing. It might do the driver one, but not the anchor part. While 3" bits are available, it would have taken weeks for one to turn up in the mail. Do get those flappers though. 1 is 1/2", the other 1"...
jimbo7 wrote: Wed Sep 20, 2023 8:04 pm That's why 3d printers are so great. You can design and print a baffle router template in a few hours and it'll fit perfect. That's what I did recently to replace the driver in my AT. You can't fit a router in the chamber, but I was able to make a new baffle and mount it to the existing baffle.
My ply templates work fine :)
Still, you can 3D print yours, so you should!

I can't imagine doing what you did for your AT working in a T39 though, unless you also took a slice out of the top of the chamber.
No bid deal I guess, since that's how they use to be made, but I was trying to minimise potential leak spots...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

jimbo7
Posts: 874
Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2012 10:45 am
Location: St. Louis

Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed

#81 Post by jimbo7 »

Grant Bunter wrote: Wed Sep 20, 2023 8:53 pm I can't imagine doing what you did for your AT working in a T39 though, unless you also took a slice out of the top of the chamber.
No bid deal I guess, since that's how they use to be made, but I was trying to minimise potential leak spots...
I just appreciate the ingenuity and abstract thinking people come up with

Oh I made sure it wasn't gonna leak. Plenty of PL and screws to keep the baffle to baffle surface airtight. And some decorative schmooing along the edges a la bathroom caulking style. It's a band-aid fix and if I ever blow another driver I'll probably retire the cab and built another, but bigger to house these Infinity 10's I have.
BFM builds:
XF212
T24 BP102 24"
2x SLA's 6-5" mids, 9- gt-302's
2x AT 14" MCM 55-2421
TrT 5" MCM 55-2421
AT 18" JBL GTO804
2x OT12 flat array
2x SLA Pro 2-Alpha 6's 2-Goldwoods
2x T39 24" 3012lf
Simplex 10 BP102

Keryn O'Shea
Posts: 559
Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:50 pm
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed

#82 Post by Keryn O'Shea »

Grant Bunter wrote: Wed Sep 20, 2023 8:53 pm Most valuable tool man. Just like a 10mm socket. Or that digital angle guide I keep telling you to pick up :)

Ah Roger, I've lost all my 10mm sockets, and if I need an angle guide, I'll pop over and borrow/lose yours mate!
jimbo7 wrote: Wed Sep 20, 2023 9:14 pm I just appreciate the ingenuity and abstract thinking people come up with
Absolutely
AT8 14", AT10 19", T30 28" LAB12, T48 36" 3015LF, THT 20" LAB15, SLA 4x3"/4x4", CArray 6x4", TLAH, TLAP, J10 FA, J12 FA, OT8 CD, OT12 FA, OT15 CD, SLAP 2x6"/4x6", WH8, DR280 MA, XF210. Next J10L

Grant Bunter
Posts: 6912
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
Contact:

Re: T39: 4 x 20", 2 x 28" completed

#83 Post by Grant Bunter »

Keryn O'Shea wrote: Fri Sep 22, 2023 4:15 am Ah Roger, I've lost all my 10mm sockets, and if I need an angle guide, I'll pop over and borrow/lose yours mate!
Haha, welcome any time!
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

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