Finally! Omni 12 Tall Boy build

[CarterKraft]

I need to use a top bearing cutter for that right?

I suppose you could use a flush cut bit (bearing on the bottom) to make the template by cutting from the other side. However, you'll need a pattern bit (bearing on the top) to make the actual recess in the baffle for the tweeter.

Since you don't have one already, it may be smart to identify the corner radius of your tweeter and choose a pattern bit with a diameter that would be complimentary.

I got a top bearing bit, 1/2" diameter (the only one they had.

I spent an embarrassing amount of time trying to route the baffle, I used my circle cutter etc. and I can't even remember now what happened but I screwed it up with about 5% left
That baffle is much smaller than the 12" Jack Lite I had been looking at. I may try it again on the jack but really the jig saw does a good enough job.

I switched to the jig saw and files and knocked it out no problem.
I got al the mid horn parts cut out and got it put together, that was a pretty fun project.

I then spent another embarrassing amount of time making a tweeter horn template to attempt and flush that horn.
I didn't get to trying that yet I was waiting on the mid horn glue to dry so the front will be smooth.

[CarterKraft]

Because the low bass is crossed over at 400 Hz, the best output will be had with the kappalite 3012lf with 9.1mm Xmax (14mm Xlim). The 3012HO performs similarly in the bass range and I put one of them in my subwoofer cabs just to test before the 3012lf turned up, and with 6 mm xmax not bad if you got them cheap, but if getting new they aren't cheaper. For the jack cab though where you need more sensitive mids they are the better driver.

People talk about "only 3dB". How much level change v is that? Well if you're on 10 and you need that extra push over the cliff, an extra 3dB will take you to "12" in terms of psychological loudness. Samsung smart phone volume clicks are about 3dB apart. On my laptop, between "50" and "100" is about a 10dB difference on headphones.

I understand your suggestion. This build has a lot of constraints, budget, size, and ultimately power (both amplifier and battery).
Getting these clearance drivers from Bill I saved a ton of money over buying new and i think overall this woofer, if not optimal is a great starting point.

[CarterKraft]

I'm looking at 6.8uF caps for the tweeter protection and ???? for the mid?
Any suggestions, this part of the build is not my strong suit (crossover design).

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

10uF for the tweeter, 50uF for the midrange.

[CarterKraft]

Thanks Bill

[Tom Smit]

I spent an embarrassing amount of time trying to route the baffle, I used my circle cutter etc. and I can't even remember now what happened but I screwed it up with about 5% left

Did that happen with the router, using the circle jig? If so, one has to go super slow when coming to that last little bit of wood that holds the disc to the outside portion. Eaaaaasy does.

[CarterKraft]

I spent an embarrassing amount of time trying to route the baffle, I used my circle cutter etc. and I can't even remember now what happened but I screwed it up with about 5% left

Did that happen with the router, using the circle jig? If so, one has to go super slow when coming to that last little bit of wood that holds the disc to the outside portion. Eaaaaasy does.

No it wasn't I've learned that detail the hard way
It was on the straight sections where I was trying my first use of the guide bushings.
For reproduction of parts it would be worth making the jig but not for a one off Jig saw it and be done in my opinion.

[CarterKraft]

I got the front basically done except for some detail sanding on the woofer horn and hole filling.
I made one pass with the router to set the tweeter horn recess and then cut the opening with the jig saw (I learned my lesson about getting too fancy and scrapping the part). The mid horn got a little wonky on glue up somehow but it finished out good and with duratex I think it will look great.

[CarterKraft]

I did find a uh-oh though. The APT80 super tweeter I got from Bill is what appears to be a older model that requires a male to female adapter the APT3.
I don't have that adapter and can't seem to find one to buy.
I am tempted to try and machine one on my lathe... OR cut and glue the 80 mm horn on to the 100x50 horn.
Orrr I could modify the tweeter housing to convert it to the newer male 1 3/8-18 thread if I can get some overall dimensions, this solution might be the most robust. I would like to not purchase another APT tweeter but that is a last resort.

Anyone have one of those adapters?

[Bruce Weldy]

Anyone have one of those adapters?

I looked back to 2019 on my dealer price lists and there's no adapter like that. If I search the site with that number, it comes up with the APT30 horn/tweeter. Probably gonna' be impossible to find. Is your waveguide a standard screw in? If so, you could always go to an ASD1001 driver as a substitute.

[CarterKraft]

Anyone have one of those adapters?

I looked back to 2019 on my dealer price lists and there's no adapter like that. If I search the site with that number, it comes up with the APT30 horn/tweeter. Probably gonna' be impossible to find. Is your waveguide a standard screw in? If so, you could always go to an ASD1001 driver as a substitute.

I'm not sure when it changed but probably before 2019.
This is about all I can find other than pictures of the adapter on sites across the pond.
Since this super tweeter horn is not something I am ever going to use I think I will give it a shot to either make the adapter out of the old horn or machine a new aluminum snout for the tweeter with the correct 1 3/8"-18 TPI.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I did find a uh-oh though. The APT80 super tweeter I got from Bill is what appears to be a older model that requires a male to female adapter the APT3.

The APT 80 doesn't use a separate horn. It's a self contained unit.

[CarterKraft]

But it uses the APT-50 driver same as the APT 150 correct?
This might be a dumb assumption but I thought I could just swap the horns from the 80s to the 150s I purchased separately.
edit: I didn't realize this driver had a different mounting style (due to age it seems) than the newer 1 3/8"-18 threads they use now it's not a big deal I just thought it worth asking around to see if one of these adapters is out kicking around.

edit: The APT30 is a self contained unit for sure, the driver doesn't appear to separate from the horn easily in my research.

[CarterKraft]

Here is the adapter in germany
https://www.artsound.gr/product/ld-syst ... cx-series/

[Seth]

I'm curious to see what you're working with, so I can better understand your proposed solutions. Are you able to post a few pics of the mismatched parts, showing how they don't fit together?