dumb tuba assembly question

[himhimself]

Probably a dumb question, but don't want to make things harder than they need to be.
When attaching the panels to the sides, do I apply PL, then use a couple screws through a right angle jig into both the panel and side to align it, then flip it over and shoot the brad nails (or screws) from the outside of the side through into the inner panel? That seems most logical, but flipping around 30x30 slabs with another big piece hanging off it is a little unwieldy for one person.
thanks

[Bruce Weldy]

You should pre-drill holes along your layout line for the screws. Get your panel situated and drive the screws part way. Now, take the panel off and apply the PL. Replace the panel and screw from the bottom up. You'll have to re-position the workpiece around on your work table so that you can get to the holes. That will suck the pieces together. Use the brad nailer for all of the rest of the cab, but using screws on the first side to attach the inner panels keeps things lined up.

For keeping the panels square, build some of these.....

[himhimself]

Okay, that makes sense. I already have some holes drilled in the layout from marking the centerline on the opposite side, so will use those to pull the panels together with screws, then shoot brads in between. Need to go make up some of those clampy triangle things...
thanks Bruce!

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Clamps and triangle jigs work fine at the outside corners, but they won't give perfect joints across the cab the way the jigs shown in the plans do.

[himhimself]

Panels 1 and 2 in, looking really square so far. The driver access hole made it easy to get some long clamps in there to cinch down panel 1 tight, then the screws, followed by a row of brads. I had some metal shelf brackets that work well when clamped to the side to keep the panel at a right angle when setting it in place and until panel 2 joins panel 1.
I made the big flat table saw jig thing with runners yesterday and used it today. Wow, so much more reproducible in cutting all the panels accurately to width, even with my POS table saw. 19 7/8, so I should end up with cabs just under 21" wide.

[hamtu]

Clamps and triangle jigs work fine at the outside corners, but they won't give perfect joints across the cab the way the jigs shown in the plans do.

The plan recommend screw is 1 1/4" and recommended flat jig is 2" . How do this work for example in the panel 1 installation. if i drill from the jig to the panel it wont reach right?

[LelandCrooks]

Right angle jig, put it on the inside.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

The plan recommend screw is 1 1/4" and recommended flat jig is 2" . How do this work for example in the panel 1 installation. if i drill from the jig to the panel it wont reach right?

The jig is 1/2 inch thick. That leaves 3/4 inch of screw to penetrate the panels.

[hamtu]

The plan recommend screw is 1 1/4" and recommended flat jig is 2" . How do this work for example in the panel 1 installation. if i drill from the jig to the panel it wont reach right?

The jig is 1/2 inch thick. That leaves 3/4 inch of screw to penetrate the panels.

Ok, thank you , i understand that part now . however I do not understand some of the instruction in the plan for example:

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Put adhesive on panel 2 edges, place it and screw it to the jigs. Fasten panel 2, remove the jigs, fill the holes with adhesive.  

What does it mean by fasten when you already screw it to the jigs. also how long do i need to wait before removing the jigs? There is also a thing i do not know and i has attach the question in the image.

Right angle jig, put it on the inside.

yes but it is not used in the plan for panel 1 installation.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Fastening always refers to a permanent joint between parts. Jigs are not permanent. They're removed as soon as the joint between the two parts has been fastened.

[hamtu]

Fastening always refers to a permanent joint between parts. Jigs are not permanent. They're removed as soon as the joint between the two parts has been fastened.

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Use a framing square to draw the joints with panels 2 and 4 onto panel 1. Screw the 2 degree edge scrap to the joint of panel 2 with panel 1, screw a right angle jig to the joint of panel 2 and the side. Put adhesive on panel 2 edges, place it and screw it to the jigs. Fasten panel 2, remove the jigs, fill the holes with adhesive.  

1. Use a framing square to draw the joints with panels 2 and 4 onto panel 1

i understand this as a joint that i need to drill a pilot\countersink hole through the middle of each joint , 1/16 inch or so diameter, about two inches from both ends of the joint.

2. Screw the 2 degree edge scrap to the joint of panel 2 with panel 1
what does this mean, using the joint from step 1?

3. screw a right angle jig to the joint of panel 2 and the side
the right angle jig should align beside the 2 degree angle panel 2 right.

4 .Put adhesive on panel 2 edges, place it and screw it to the jigs.
screw it to the jigs and what about the side joint mentioned earlier. should i screw it too or not. also how to screw panel 2 to the scrap 2 degree jig the angle is too steep?

[LelandCrooks]

I use one for panel one installation. especially if it's a wide cab. I leave in it place while I install 2. Just be sure to fill the screw holes when you pull it.

[hamtu]

I use one for panel one installation. especially if it's a wide cab. I leave in it place while I install 2. Just be sure to fill the screw holes when you pull it.

Thanks Leland, is it really ok to put many holes on the panel,on the main side plus the jig and fill it later? i am asking because i never do woodwork and still deciding whether to buy or rent the tools for this project.

[LelandCrooks]

I'll clamp it in as many places as I can reach with a clamp. I also use screws short enough that they don't pierce though. I still fill the holes just to be sure. It does not take many to hold it, 3 or 4 at most. Even BB will come with a twist in some panels, and the jig keeps it all nice and square. Bill's jig works basically the same way, I just find this way easier.