Greeting from Charlotte

[Vinnyw]

Hi. I just signed up, but have been lurking here for a few years if I had to guestimate...

I've started my first build of DR200's ... I sold a pair of SP215-9's to partly finance the project... My dad and I are avid woodworkers, so when Bill said "If you have the woodworking chops..." my decision was made - and I'm generally indecisive...

I'd like to say ahead of time a great thanks to all who have posted, commented and contributed to help make this forum such a tremendous repository of knowledge...

[Chris_Allen]

Hi, welcome to the forum.

If you've been lurking for a few years, you've probably mulled the decision of which cab to build to death! You won't regret the DR200's.

The only thing I will say is that if you are building 4, consider how you are going to stack them first, it could affect your build.

[BrentEvans]

The only thing I will say is that if you are building 4, consider how you are going to stack them first, it could affect your build.

+1... Even on a sturdy speaker stand two per side gets really wobbly. You're going to want something better than that.

[David Raehn]

I have been pleased with the results of my new stands:

http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... =3&t=23137

If you make the base plate the right dimensions for the ground-stack frames described in the plans, I think it would work for DRs as well.

And, of course, WELCOME!

[Vinnyw]

Thanks! I'm an engineer too, so absolutely, I've mulled it over, gone back and forth... yep...

I've been thinking exactly that... an optimum stand arrangement that gives flexibility and is rock solid. I was planning on incorporating a scheme to allow splaying them and figuring at some point, I'll probably end up building another set to add to them...

I built a crank-up system for the SP215's that I had... Those were flyable, so it was a simpler deal...

I'm building these in Greensboro where my dad lives; he is pretty serious about woodworking and has a 50 X 60 shop with two Delta (one unisaw) tablesaws, a 24" planer with spiral cutterhead, 24" resaw bandsaw and an untold number of other tools... At one point, he had over 40,000 board-ft of air-dried lumber in about 26 different species of wood... I think he is almost bored working with plywood...

Realizing that this part might belong in another topic, I'll just briefly mention the problem here:
One mistake we made- when we looked for plywood, I hadn't yet read that blondewood specifically was a problem child (saw that in one of the sub plans this week) - it seemed like it was the only thing that the big blue box had that was even close... And in the pile, it looked like the plies were all the same thickness... Dad also wanted to get started, so that is what we got... From what I've read, the biggest issue is that the joints might fail because that outer layer is thin... so, I'm wondering how to salvage this... To better bond the panels to the sides, after the PL cures, could I drill from the outside and install dowels (using PL) between the sides and the inner panels to eliminate/reduce the tensile load on that outer layer at the joints. Thoughts?

[Tom Smit]

Welcome to the forum, Vinny!

Yes, you could recover by putting in dowels. I'm reasonably confident that you and your dad have the experience/skills to accomplish that.

[sine143]

I know you have already purchased the wood for your build, but for future stuff, contact these guys

http://www.hooddistribution.com/product ... -overview/

They have locations just south of raleigh nc, and one in high point as well. I use the Raleigh location and get my Baltic birch 1/2 sheets for about 29 a 5x5. good quality stuff. If your dad has a business with a state tax id number for his woodworking shop he can get it tax free as well. Im not *sure* the high point location carries it, but raleigh guys were great.

[Vinnyw]

Sine, Thanks so much for the lead on the material... I'll definitely be reaching out to them when I'm ready to build the subs... Do you know if they have the 1/8" plywood for the bent panels?

Yeah, not only is it bought, but much of it has been cut out... Dad is rather efficient...

I'm also mulling over the driver choices and have looked through the forum for thoughts...

[Grant Bunter]

I'm also mulling over the driver choices and have looked through the forum for thoughts...

G'day Vinny and welcome to the forum from an Aussie lol.

Honestly, when it goes to performance, always select the premium driver.
All my initial considerations were based on budget, but I justified that by thinking we pay a lot more for drivers where I am.

I know more now than I knew then.
I built DR250's, but the premise is the same.
If I had known that the 2510 was going to have +5dB in mids output compared to the Beta 10's I put in, it would have been the 2510's for sure.

Go the Delta Pro 8a's rather than the Beta 8a's.
Yes, it's about $30/driver extra (speakerhardware.com pricing) but you are spending the time to build the cabs. Buy once, cry once.

Apply the same principle to your sub builds.

Enjoy the forum mate!...

[Vinnyw]

Grant,

That's the sentiment that I've seen time and time again...

I need to get moving with ordering...

Thanks again.

[DJPhatman]

Vinnyw, glad you finally decided to join us!

By your "dream signature", I'm taking a guess you and dad are building for mostly live music. If yes, I would strongly urge you to re-consider your sub choice. this chart will show why:



What does this all mean, you might ask... it means you get more bang-for-your-buck with the T39. It takes almost 2 T24 to equal the SPL of 1 T39. There is also the maximum voltage limits for each driver, 28V for the S2010, 34V for the BP102 and 50V for the 3012LF. As a bonus, the T39 can make use of the 3012LF, the T24 can't. For live music, and even for most DJ music, the T39 is all that, and a bag of chips!

[Vinnyw]

DJP,

A great thank you - to you and to all the others who have posted so far - for the welcome. I really appreciate the respect and dignity that everyone seems to be mindful of when posting - all who are members here should be very proud to own that hallmark in this place.

Funny that you bring it up... Last night, I was reading a topic in the subwoofer section on the very same idea... My biggest "gotcha" is aspect ratio AFA pack space is concerned; which is one of the things that OP was also concerned about. That said, it certainly looks like a single T39 will out perform two T24's... which greatly mitigates that concern...

One problem is the "Baskin-Robbins" paradox - too many choices... The experience so willingly shared here is of great help in zeroing in on what is an optimal choice.