18" T30 Build

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#31 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

ripNdeb wrote: Since we're on the subject, would one of those cheapy 500W halogens like HD sells help to cure properly.
A 250w PAR 40 heat lamp would do, curing one side at a time. I leave mine on my deck in the summer sun, two days and it's hard as a rock.

Bruce Weldy
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Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: 18" T30 Build

#32 Post by Bruce Weldy »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:A 250w PAR 40 heat lamp would do, curing one side at a time. I leave mine on my deck in the summer sun, two days and it's hard as a rock.

You know.......changing one little letter in that sentence totally changes the meaning and makes it way funnier.

I'll leave you all to decide which letter to change.....

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

Arben
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Joined: Fri Apr 11, 2014 5:19 am

Re: 18" T30 Build

#33 Post by Arben »

:o :wink:
Built:
OmniTop 12 x 2 (Straight Piezo Array)
Tuba 30 x 1 (Lab 12) (second one is on it's way)

David Raehn
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Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2013 5:56 pm
Location: Colonial Beach VA

Re: 18" T30 Build

#34 Post by David Raehn »

e...i...e...i....

Oh......
BFM rig:
6 OT12
4 T48
4 WH8
Other:
56 box Electrotec LabQ rig
Way too many cables
:noob:

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#35 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

Meaning I'd get a third degree sunburn in a most unfortunate location? :oops:

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BrentEvans
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#36 Post by BrentEvans »

abrockey wrote:So, I ordered duratex last wednesday... too cold to ship, hold till monday... monday get a call, too cold to ship, tuesday, too cold to ship. I cancelled the order. I agree they have the best product for this, but the weather forecast isn't going to get any better anytime soon. SO... I need options. Obviously the restore products are out, what else is there? One thought is the roll on bed liner from rustoleum. Thoughts? Ideas? My tubas are prepped and ready for paint!

:fingers:

oh yeah, I called the local line-x. They want $125 per box... next.
Don't use DIY bedliner. I had to do an emergency refinish to get my cabs back on the road after a trailer wreck last summer so I got the Rustoleum stuff. It fades super fast to a most unplesant uneven grayish green, scratches easily, it's rough as sandpaper, and it peels like nobody's business.

I sanded it all off (or rather had someone sand it off) and paid to have the cabs professionally sprayed with several coats of Duratex.

If you absolutely positively have to do something in the meantime, do flat black latex. It won't be as pretty but it can serve as a duratex primer with a light rough grit sanding before application of duratex.
99% of the time, things that aren't already being done aren't being done because they don't work. The other 1% is split evenly between fools and geniuses.

abrockey
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#37 Post by abrockey »

BrentEvans wrote:Don't use DIY bedliner. I had to do an emergency refinish to get my cabs back on the road after a trailer wreck last summer so I got the Rustoleum stuff. It fades super fast to a most unplesant uneven grayish green, scratches easily, it's rough as sandpaper, and it peels like nobody's business.

I sanded it all off (or rather had someone sand it off) and paid to have the cabs professionally sprayed with several coats of Duratex.

If you absolutely positively have to do something in the meantime, do flat black latex. It won't be as pretty but it can serve as a duratex primer with a light rough grit sanding before application of duratex.
Thanks for the advise! I was planning to test the DIY Bed Liner on scrap wood before applying to my cabs anyway. I have other places I could use it as well so it would not be a total waste. The flat black latex makes sense, not to mention that it will also cover any PL that I may have missed allowing the duratex to stick when I can get it.

Bruce Weldy
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#38 Post by Bruce Weldy »

abrockey wrote:
BrentEvans wrote:Don't use DIY bedliner. I had to do an emergency refinish to get my cabs back on the road after a trailer wreck last summer so I got the Rustoleum stuff. It fades super fast to a most unplesant uneven grayish green, scratches easily, it's rough as sandpaper, and it peels like nobody's business.

I sanded it all off (or rather had someone sand it off) and paid to have the cabs professionally sprayed with several coats of Duratex.

If you absolutely positively have to do something in the meantime, do flat black latex. It won't be as pretty but it can serve as a duratex primer with a light rough grit sanding before application of duratex.
Thanks for the advise! I was planning to test the DIY Bed Liner on scrap wood before applying to my cabs anyway. I have other places I could use it as well so it would not be a total waste. The flat black latex makes sense, not to mention that it will also cover any PL that I may have missed allowing the duratex to stick when I can get it.
You should always prime your cabs with flat black before duratex. It keeps that expensive duratex from soaking in and having to use more.

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

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escapemcp
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#39 Post by escapemcp »

Bruce Weldy wrote:You should always prime your cabs with flat black before duratex. It keeps that expensive duratex from soaking in and having to use more.
I understand the argument, but Duratex isn't that expensive, when compared to drivers, wood etc - and it goes a long way. I always buy lots of it at once, so when it comes to painting my cabs I can either use the 'free' big tub of Duratex which is sitting in my garage ready to go (i.e. no expense required) OR go out and spend MORE money on black paint. I understand that in the long term this may be cheaper, but I'm a hand to mouth kind of guy (for those who haven't noticed!) :broke:

Besides, the instructions for Duratex (well, TuffCote) say apply direct to wood for better bond - so IITP! :D

Horses for courses I guess :)

Bruce.. how much do you reckon you save then using the flat black first on a 3 coat job? Not having ever done it that way, I have no idea. TBH I've never noticed that it uses more on the first coat, but I'm pretty unobservant (head in the clouds most the time).

Bruce Weldy
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#40 Post by Bruce Weldy »

escapemcp wrote:
Bruce.. how much do you reckon you save then using the flat black first on a 3 coat job? Not having ever done it that way, I have no idea. TBH I've never noticed that it uses more on the first coat, but I'm pretty unobservant (head in the clouds most the time).
Flat black is $15 a gallon. Duratex is $55 a gallon plus shipping. I only have to put on two coats of duratex.

I've never had it come off of anything.....I've coated cabinets, light box, mixer case, etc.....all with flat black as a primer.

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

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escapemcp
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#41 Post by escapemcp »

And where do you get the black from? Every time I have tried to find some, I've failed. I can go to B&Q (I think you 'Mericans call it a big box store), but I can't find any black yet Lilac Shade, Crimson Sunset or Saffire Salute... no problem. :wall: Am I looking in the wrong sort of shop?

ripNdeb
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#42 Post by ripNdeb »

I've done everything in the top line of my sig with one gallon of Duratex; after a nice primer coat of black latex. Love that stuff - funnest part of the build :)
2X OTop 112, 3012HO, melded - 2X T39, 27", Lab 12 - XF 212 - 4 DR250, 2 melded, 2 straight
2 20" T39 3012LF - WH10 - WH8 - in the shop - 2 more 20" T39s
http://saltandlighteureka.org still need a trailer :)

abrockey
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#43 Post by abrockey »

Got the first coat of paint done this weekend. A good friend of mine just moved closer to where I live so we played catch up. Will be fixing some imperfections that showed up when I turned them black and adding another coat or two of paint. I'm actually pretty satisfied with the black latex finish, we'll see how it holds up. It'll be a few months before I can get duratex anyway.

Image

ripNdeb
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#44 Post by ripNdeb »

Man, you don't need another coat or two or even one. Duratex will go on those like soft butter on your favorite bread. Practice a little on some scrap. I find, if I want a more textured coat, I almost use only the gravity of the roller to achieve that. And if I want a smoother coat, only a little more pressure on the roller will suffice.

edit: lookin' good!!!
2X OTop 112, 3012HO, melded - 2X T39, 27", Lab 12 - XF 212 - 4 DR250, 2 melded, 2 straight
2 20" T39 3012LF - WH10 - WH8 - in the shop - 2 more 20" T39s
http://saltandlighteureka.org still need a trailer :)

abrockey
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#45 Post by abrockey »

I can't get duratex shipped right now, It would be ruined in transit with the freezing temps. I was going to do one coat and then duratex later but then I was pleased with the result, with the exceptions of a few imperfections I found in the mouth of the horn once I painted them black. Also, I ran out of paint so I was spreading it pretty thin just to get them covered. Plan is still to duratex in the future but I want to keep them protected for now so I can start making money with them.

PS: Thanks! :D

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