Dual Titan 48 Build

[djtrumptight]

So i drove to Toledo Ohio yesterday and picked up 5 sheets of 4x8 BB and a 4x4 piece of 3/4 BB to build a new panel jig for my big RYOBI table saw.The odd thing is,i had some panels cut at the lumber yard so i could fit them in my Jeep Liberty.That left me only needing to cut panels 6 and 10 so i'm moving past the Panel Jig and on with the build.I'm building 2 more T-48's,24 inches wide.On my last build i spent too much time changing bits with 1 drill,going from the drill bit to the countersink bit to the Phillips bit so i went and bought some cheapo cordless drills,one for each bit.

And i have to add the nail gun for braces

Both cab sides laid out

Got my artillery ready,i also have some of the right angle jigs in my truck,i use them to angle my DR's.

I already made the anchors and cut the holes and angles in the baffles.

I'm going to try to knock off 3 or 4 parts a day.I made a router template for hand holds,i may knock all of those off at the same time,that would speed up the process.I will post pictures as i go along.

[Tom Smit]

Wow! That's a lot of progress. Are you in a hurry?

[djtrumptight]

Lol,nah i'm not in a hurry to build them but i am in a hurry to hear all 4 of them.I just figured i would get a jump start on things while waiting on Leland to get Duratex in,it should be in this week.I'm like this about everything i do,when i start i dont stop until i finish but im really gonna pace myself on these,a few parts at time.

[djtrumptight]

I didn't get alot done today,i had some other things that needed tending to.I got panel 1 installed,starting with the panel 1 jig installed with waxed paper:

Panel 1 installed

Panel 1 topside

I got the anchors installed in the baffles

I decided to wait until tommorrow to install the baffles to give my right angled jigs time to dry.

I'm gonna try to get panels 2,3, and 4 installed tommorrow.

[djtrumptight]

I made a little progress today with extra emphasis on getting the first 4 panels as square as possible.
Whatever progress i post is of both cabs.

Here's the baffle dry fit:

Baffle installed,sloppy glue joint,the panel wavered as i was putting it in place,thus the sloppy glue joint.I just added more PL without smoothing it.

close up of the joint

On the other cab's baffle,i clamped a piece of plywood where the Baffle would be installed,leaving about a 1/8 inch gap as a guide so the panel wouldnt waver as it was being installed.

And that joint came out much better

[djtrumptight]

More progress.

Panel 4 installed

Panel 5 dry fit

Panel 5 dry fit view 2

I like to add braces first then install the panel,trying to slide them in place doesn't work for me,just a waste and a mess of PL

Panel 5 installed,as well as the 4/6 brace,thats it for today,i should be able to install panels 6,7 and the flanges and braces for the front of the cab tomorrow.If anybody has noticed,i have attempted to use scrap plywood and guideboards in the exact area's as they are in the plans,i have been reflecting on something Bill said,"even after building 100's of cabs i find the results are best when i knock off only a few steps a day".Then there's DJPhatman,"accept the fact that airtight and well braced..."And i must admit,these are the squarest cabs i have built.i have placed a "W" caul on the 4/6 brace and used a 12" inch guideboard to hold it square until the glue dries.there is 1 screw screwed into the brace from the inside to hold it in place until the glue dries.
I forgot to add panel 3's picture,iwill add it on the next post.

[djtrumptight]

Panel 3 installed

Panel 3 sideview

Panels 2 and 3 PL'ed ready for panel 4

I almost forgot to take the picture,thats why there is no guideboards in place.

[audioman67]

Looks like it is going together well. I'm on the west side of the state. Would love to hear some BFM products. I'm just getting started on some otop's and was debating on the subs to compliment them.

[djtrumptight]

You will probably end up building some T39's,those are said to be the best bang for the buck unless you play Dubstep and Trapstep,then you will need Tuba's for the lows contained in those songs.

[djtrumptight]

I got my order in with Leland at Speakerhardware so hopefully by the time my order comes in i will have made it to the back panel,i ordered a different jack plate from what i have been buying so i dont have a template for it.

[Mark Coward]

On the other cab's baffle,i clamped a piece of plywood where the Baffle would be installed,leaving about a 1/8 inch gap as a guide so the panel wouldnt waver as it was being installed.

I do something similar for this and other situations to line things up. I keep a bunch of cleats cut up from scrap wood. Wrap them in plastic wrap or wax paper, shoot them right against the pencil line with 5/8" brads. Strong enough to let you hold the panel against them while shooting through the other side, once secure they pop off easily.

[djtrumptight]

I just used the caul long enough to shoot brads in the panel then remove it,thats why it had no waxed paper on it'

Access panel flanges installed.

Access Panel flanges installed side view

Baffle and flange braces installed,view from cab top

Panel 7's installed

I have my backs and bottoms prepped already,hand holds cut out,the only cutting left to do is 1 set of back braces,1/2 inch off the bottom panels and the access covers.Im gonna try to do the backs,back braces,panel 10 and possibly the mouth braces today.That will allow me to get a break for a couple of days until my hardware comes in from Leland

[jswingchun]

I do something similar for this and other situations to line things up. I keep a bunch of cleats cut up from scrap wood. Wrap them in plastic wrap or wax paper, shoot them right against the pencil line with 5/8" brads. Strong enough to let you hold the panel against them while shooting through the other side, once secure they pop off easily.

Thats a good idea!

[djtrumptight]

I got my order in with Leland at Speakerhardware so hopefully by the time my order comes in i will have made it to the back panel,i ordered a different jack plate from what i have been buying so i dont have a template for it.

I love it when a plan comes together,my order from Leland arrived today and i have installed the back panels and braces.Again,sliding the braces into place doesn't work so well for me so i like to attach them to a panel first then install the panel.

Braces installed on the back panel

Back installed

I should be able to close these up today,tomorrow depending on the weather possibly take them outside,bondo the holes,route the edges,do the sanding and start priming and painting,add the hardware saturday,recheck the driver screws sunday,put the access cover's on,leak test the covers,then sit and wait impatiently to play all 4 T-48's together.

Question to those using 4 subs,I have 4 rubber feet on the side of my current T-48's for when i lay them on their side.Should i add rubber feet to the new cabs or use the corners to lock them together when i V plate all 4 together ?

[djtrumptight]

1/2 inch quarter round installed

Panel 9 installed

speaker wire stapled outside of the cab

Speaker wire hole filled with PL

Panel 10 installed

Today's mission will be to finish the assembling process,6/10 braces are already cut out,panel 11's angle's have already been cut,the only cutting left is the access panels and caster cutouts,add hurricane nuts to the access cover then i can start the sanding and bondo process then get the painting done,providing it doesnt rain,then i can install the adjustable tophats in my flat aray DR's,there have been times when i have only needed 1 set of DR's and the flat array would fit the bill better.I had some BB left over from a previous build and i used some of that to make my baffles and the anchors so i have a nice amount of wood left over,i'm debating if i should do another SLA system since i already have the drivers or order some of those Daytons and build some SLA Pro's,decision,decisions