I guess I can hijack my own thread, right?
 A small router table (AKA Benchtop Router Table) is infinitely useful.  Some things, like putting the edge roundover on bass cabs like Tubas or Titans, can only be done with a handheld router.  But almost everything else you can do w/a benchtop router.  The frames I've made for this facade are a perfect example.  Even if you don't use pocket screws and the corners don't align 100%, you can still bring the rounded-over edges into alignment quickly and easily either with sandpaper or the sanding tool of your choice.
  A small router table (AKA Benchtop Router Table) is infinitely useful.  Some things, like putting the edge roundover on bass cabs like Tubas or Titans, can only be done with a handheld router.  But almost everything else you can do w/a benchtop router.  The frames I've made for this facade are a perfect example.  Even if you don't use pocket screws and the corners don't align 100%, you can still bring the rounded-over edges into alignment quickly and easily either with sandpaper or the sanding tool of your choice.I mentioned above about the procedure when rounding over these frames using a handheld router. "Clamp, pass the router, unclamp, rotate workpiece, clamp, pass the router, etc." What a pain in the ass (spelled out for emphasis). I've used a benchtop router table before. Passing all the pieces for this facade, both inner and outer roundovers would take less than 5 minutes, total, vs. about an hour it took me doing it "the old fashioned way." I'm a huge proponent of "Work smarter, not harder." Rounding over the pieces before gluing/screwing them into a rectangle would save a lot of time and work.
I'm sort of doing three things at once...trying to get as much work in while I can. Here's a sneak peek at another yet-to-be-created thread. I bought some lights for dance-area lighting. I bought pairs, as to have equal lighting on both my light stands. The LED washes I bought have a non-standard mounting bolt pattern, and don't line up with the existing mounting bolt/hole locations on the light stands...probably b/c they are intended to be wall-washes/uplighting and not stand-mounted washes. But they are more than bright enough for that. So I am "repurposing them." The mounting holes in the brackets are 41-3/8" apart, on-center, which didn't quite line up with the upper bar on my light stands. So I drilled new mounting holes for the brackets. More pics of it all lit up later...someday soon. For now, just some pics.


Looking down on the bars, the two innermost bolts are the stock locations. There are two more corresponding holes (barely visible in pic) towards the ends. I wanted the LED bars facing/mounted on the front of the bar, so I drilled two new holes. Those two new holes are where the bolts that attach the lights to the bars are located.

Hope to have a few pics of the facade later tonight. I am planning on 3 coats of rolled primer on the fronts, then 2 sprayed coats on the fronts.

 Off to the material shop tomorrow as per your instructions
  Off to the material shop tomorrow as per your instructions 
 
  
 














 
 




 Ugly as sin but who cares?  The top edge would be open and the folded facade would slide down into it.  Of course, I'd like a lid for it.  I'll think on that part.  But methinks I've got my case built already!
  Ugly as sin but who cares?  The top edge would be open and the folded facade would slide down into it.  Of course, I'd like a lid for it.  I'll think on that part.  But methinks I've got my case built already!   And this thing NEEDS a case.  That fabric is like an accident waiting to happen.  I can't believe people pay $400+ for these things and they don't come with a case.  The box it shipped in will only last so long, you know?
   And this thing NEEDS a case.  That fabric is like an accident waiting to happen.  I can't believe people pay $400+ for these things and they don't come with a case.  The box it shipped in will only last so long, you know?


















 
 

