Journey - DR200 Build

[Bman]

(Cont.) Now for the back braces. Since I've already made a cutting jig for the tops and bottoms, I used the same jig to cut out the back braces, since they are the same radius and shape.

For a more sturdy connection, I used a pocket hole jig to assist in making the joint mechanically stronger.

Using the same technique that I used to cut the tops and bottoms.

Using my Kreg pocket hole jig, it made making this joint support a snap.

The back braces installed.

[billkatz]

Thank you for the detailed pictures - this is the best explanation I've seen of how to make these little pieces.

[Bman]

(Cont.) Next up was to cut and install the drive chamber sheaths.

Each were rough cut as per the plans and then trimmed to fit and installed. I elected to use crown staples to hold it together. Once the PL dries, I'll fill all the holes and sand smooth.

Quite a bit for the day. Hope you're all enjoying this as much as I am.

Back braces complete.

Trimming up the sheath panels.

One down...

Both finished.

[biggerrigger]

Looking good. You are coming into the home stretch now.
I did the same with the crown staples.
I used Bondo brand glazing putty to fill in the voids left by the staples. It dries fast and sands easy.

Just a tip. When you get to the point of installing your PVC pieces make sure you ruff up the area's on the PVC where the hot glue will join them to the cab. If not the hot glue will not adhere to the pipe very well.
I used a 1" belt sander to make a filet on all edges of the PVC and a hand sander to ruff up the edges of the PVC for the hot glue to bite onto. Once the glue has cooled a sharp chisel takes care of any extra glue on the joint.

[Bman]

Thanks for the tip bigerrigger! I'll just do that.

Today, I cleaned up the PL squeeze out where needed and filled and sanded all the staple and screw holes where required. Then time for the PVC installation to finish up the driver chamber. I got the PVC part precut to rough length from speaker hardware.com. Since the 3 degree was already cut, I just trimmed to size on the 90 degree side with the table saw. Today the humidity is 6% in So Cal, so the static electricity was high. Couple that with cutting PVC, made for an electrifying and shocking time!

I trim cut and dry fitted all the pieces. I marked each one for their respective places. You'll also notice that I marked the (90 degree) end to trim off. It's SO easy to cut off the 3 degree end since it's so close looking to 90 degrees.

Here they are all dry assembled.

Side view.

Using biggerrigger's advice, I used the belt sander to chamfer all the edges along the sides and ends to get a good gap for the hot glue. More static and dust.

Sanding the long edges.

[Bman]

(Cont.)

Sanding the other long edge.

Getting at the ends.

Lots and lots of hot glue.

With all the PVC pieces glued in. I remember one of the things I don't like about hot glue... all the "spider webs" that you have to clean up.

I was getting ready to start on the Melded Tweeter Array section, but during the rough cutting, the table saw decided to catch one of the pieces and fling it back at me. It hit my thigh pretty good and tossed me back a couple of feet. Felt like someone hit my left thigh with a baseball bat. That's gonna leave a mark... well a bruise anyway. After that, I decided to call it a day, before I do any more damage to myself. Can't wait to see how it's gonna feel tomorrow.

[Tom Smit]

I was getting ready to start on the Melded Tweeter Array section, but during the rough cutting, the table saw decided to catch one of the pieces and fling it back at me.

Woah! Even with the zero clearance insert! Yikes.

[miked]

Hope you are OK, BMan. Thankfully your hands did not get in the way. Years ago, I had an industrial-sized 5HP table saw fling a 2x4' sheet of 3/4" MDF back at me. It was like getting kicked by a Clydesdale horse. It just goes to show everyone reading this thread that this stuff can happen to the best of us, and it's obvious BMan knows his way around a woodshop.

Get well soon BMan...the DRs ain't gonna finish themselves!

[biggerrigger]

Glad to hear it did not go any worse with the table saw. I have caught a large piece of kick back right in the guts and can tell you it was no fun at all. It took over 3 weeks for the bruising to go away.

On a brighter note your PVC looks spot on. That is exactly what I was talking about.

Excuse me if you have already stated it but are you doing a full back on this build or the butt cheek version?

[Harley]

....the table saw decided to catch one of the pieces and fling it back at me. It hit my thigh pretty good and tossed me back a couple of feet. Felt like someone hit my left thigh with a baseball bat. That's gonna leave a mark...

Hope it's not like this then;

Kick back time ( some years ago );



Now;

[kekani]

I know there have been more than a fair share of sub builds, and a number of DR builds. Between this one, and Grant's 250, you guys are awesome. The level of detail you're sharing makes me more confident when my time comes.

Of course, being the hack that I am, and the big "I gotta get it lighter" pussy, I have to ask. . .
The parts for the woofer horn seem to be non-load bearing; could these be done with 1/4"?
What about the center horn braces? Including the ones that wrap around and go the the front?
Heck, its only an 8" driver, what about the baffles, with some extra Jack Lite style bracing?

The reason I'm asking is not because I really want it light weight (well, yeah, I do), I just think after my Jack Lites, I like the staple concept of holding things together while the PL dries.
And, since I get a good price on BB ply, I don't mind another sheet of 1/4" for jigs, templates, etc.

Again, great build. Nice work.

[Grant Bunter]

Sorry to disrupt your thread a tad Bman, and hope you're not to sore today.
Enjoying your build immensely!

Kekani,
1/4" can be used in some places/parts, as per the plans lol.
There's some can be used in the horn mouth assembly for example.
Bill made the comment a while back the DR's are pretty much lightened as much as possible already.
Where you mention though, is the driver chamber, ie the most pressure, so I would just stick with the 1/2".
Don't let the fact that it's an 8" driver fool you...

[miked]

Excuse me if you have already stated it but are you doing a full back on this build or the butt cheek version?

IIRC, he said he's doing the full-back version. This thread is very interesting for me; I really enjoy and learn a lot from seeing detailed threads from very skilled builders.

[kekani]

Sorry to disrupt your thread a tad Bman, and hope you're not to sore today.
Enjoying your build immensely!

Kekani,
1/4" can be used in some places/parts, as per the plans lol.
There's some can be used in the horn mouth assembly for example.
Bill made the comment a while back the DR's are pretty much lightened as much as possible already.
Where you mention though, is the driver chamber, ie the most pressure, so I would just stick with the 1/2".
Don't let the fact that it's an 8" driver fool you...

Yup, plans on the way. I've not seen 1/4" used on DR's, but, I haven't really looked either.

I have a 12" Deltalite hanging off a 1/4" baffle, but, its not a sealed chamber, so yes, I get the logic of 1/2". If 1/4" is in the plans, then that's where it'll be used. I did that option on the Wedgehorn 6's, and I don't regret it.

[Bman]

Thanks everyone for the concern. I'm surprised that I'm not feeling all that sore. No bruising. Just a little tenderness, but nothing really all that bad. I think, more than anything, I was just surprised by the incident and more of my pride also taking a blow for not paying attention as I usually do. A very forceful reminder. And Harley... OUCH! I'm glad it healed. I don't get a battle scar like you though. My GF did mention to me though, that had it only been a couple of more inches over, I would be speaking in a higher pitch than her... if you know what I mean.

kekani - Going through this build, the 1/2" BB isn't that bad. As I've said earlier, I was surprised about how much smaller they are from what I imagined they would be before I started the build. Now I have the LA-8's and they are the premium driver option. So having it 1/2" vs. 1/4" seems reassuring to me, more for the reason that Grant pointed out. Besides, with all the intricate measurements that there are, I think recalculating and compensating for the 1/4" size would be a hassle, not to mention probably a nightmare. And miked is correct, I'm doing the full back version. Since these are being built just for me, my family, and friends, I need the full back version. With little tikes running around, them being knocked over is an inevitability. The plans allow the use of 1/4" BB for the back, but I'm sticking with 1/2" for that very reason.

Hey Grant, I tried to find your build of the DR250's, but couldn't find it. I would love to see how you built your cabs.

Well, on with more of what I did today. Since there was a lot of football today, I didn't get as much done as I probably would have. Now, I've also got a new motivation to get my build done. I have a friend who is getting married next month (November) and for the reception, he was going low key and just have a boom box hooked up to his iPod and just have Pandora playing in the background. Can't have any of that! So I offered him to bring these DR200's and have some really kickin' sounds for the reception party! Maybe, I might even be able to get the T45's built as well!

I am going with the ported option to take the response down to 80 hz. I'm also planning to build T45's to go with them and cross them at 100 hz (or lower). So I cut 2" x 1/4" PVC rings.

The OD was 2-3/8", so I went to Lowes and got a hole cutter for that size.

Since the room was tight, I put some extra hot glue as close as I could get, and then while the glue was still hot, I used a cut bamboo skewer stick to make sure the glue was properly spread and sealed any gaps.

All the port rings installed.