yet another T48 and OT12 build thread.....

[David Raehn]

After a couple well deserved days off.... I just started breaking in the 3015LFs. It is so exciting to see the cones moving! One step closer to..... ummmm..... Oh yeah! LEAK TESTING!

[hifibob]

After a couple well deserved days off.... I just started breaking in the 3015LFs. It is so exciting to see the cones moving! One step closer to..... ummmm..... Oh yeah! LEAK TESTING!

Sweet! Im dying to hear what your impressions are.. Hurry up and let em rip!

[David Raehn]

Continuing the break-in process. No repeat on this particular CD deck (allows me to check in once an hour). 3 hours to go.....

Oh Yeah: The DCX arrived in the mail today!

I am also making the decision that if I get them tested out in time, the will have to debut this weekend nude. Clothed in naught but a black sheet!

[miked]

I am also making the decision that if I get them tested out in time, the will have to debut this weekend nude.

I'm feeling the same way about mine! There's no way I won't primer and Duratex them...but there's no rule that says I have to do that before I let'em rip.

[David Raehn]

Just a quick question for all of you 3015lf-in-T48 people out there: I had read that the recex screws would be sufficient for driver mounting but the ones in my kit seem a little on the long side (1-1/2") and the threads don't start until halfway down the shaft. That doesn't leave much thread engaged in the wood, in my opinion. What do you folks think? Buy shorter or try it out as-is?

[sine143]

you should have a solid inch of wood behind the driver (panel 1, plus the baffle ring) plus a half inch of driver itself. this gives you 1.5 inches of material (with 1/2 inch of it not requiring thread).

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Just a quick question for all of you 3015lf-in-T48 people out there: I had read that the recex screws would be sufficient for driver mounting but the ones in my kit seem a little on the long side (1-1/2") and the threads don't start until halfway down the shaft. That doesn't leave much thread engaged in the wood, in my opinion.

Eight screws supporting about a pound each don't need much.

[David Raehn]

Current plans: panel 2 hole I.D. is the driver O.D., driver mounts to driver anchor. 1/2" of mounting thickness, unless LAB driver is used and driver anchor is doubled resulting in 1" of mounting thickness.

Thanks Bill, I'll take your word for it. You haven't let me down!

[miked]

I have the same 8 Recex screws supporting 2 pounds each in my OTops. No probs at all. Keep in mind that the driver gaskets WILL compress. When you initially install the screws, make them tight, but don't torque them down as tightly as you can possibly do. Make them "tight" and let them sit 24 hours. If you want to play the cabs a little w/the access covers off, that's fine too.

Then, the next day, torque them down tight. Then you're good to go.

[Tom Smit]

If you want to play the cabs a little w/the access covers off, that's fine too.

-1
This statement can be a little scary. If one is not totally aware of the voltage and excursion, the driver may fry.

[sine143]

how else is one to leak check around the driver gasket tom?

[Tom Smit]

I tried to keep my statement valid by saying "if one is not aware of voltage and excursion". If one is aware, then ..no problemo.

[David Raehn]

Build docs say 30Hz @10v for leak checking with the cover off. That is what's planned for tonight!

[miked]

Yep, I should've clarified my statement by adding "Be aware of voltage." Good catch, Tom. And definitely retorque the screws about 24 hours later! Mine all took another full turn or slightly more.

[David Raehn]

I've noticed that the gasket on the back side of the basket is a lot thinner than the one on the front. Mine will mount to the rear one, yours to the front. I may add a layer of weatherstrip to it.