). My IT contract that I have been working on for the last year is expiring in 2 weeks, so I thought it best to use the time off to build another couple of subs. 
I didn't want to build another identical speaker at 24" wide, so I decided to build a couple of slim T30s (= 16" = the minimum for Lab12s), and see what they sound like compared to the 24"s - although more importantly, see what they sound like WITH the 24"s 
As I will be
until I get paid in about 10 days, I am currently only really doing prep work. I have an 8x4 sheet of 9-ply BB (minus a V-plate-shaped 'bite' out of it), so I will be using that to get started on panel 3 as well as some braces and whatever else I can squeeze out of the sheet. I will attempt to make the most labour intensive bits before the contract end, so that assembly will go much quicker once I have all the bits. I am hoping to do a party with them a week after I finish my job, but I have a distinct feeling that this will be too soon and I won't be rushing them even if I have to delay the party for a week (or 2!).So, that's all the basics of the build. Onto panel 3. I thought I should share my tee nut experiences in case I can help anyone in mounting theirs. When I have mounted tee nuts in the past, I often ended up with the teeth bending, so this is what I do to avoid this. I firstly drill the bolt holes (which I never seem to be able to get accurate, therefore I have to break out the sandpaper to avoid cone slap). This is done with a 6mm drill to match the bolts. After this, I separate the baffle from the spacer (at this point, they are only held together with 4 screws), and redrill the bolt holes in the baffle with a 7mm drill to provide space for the tee nut to sink into the wood. Then I drill 4 small holes for the teeth to sink into like so:
Then I use a long bolt and get it through the hole and out of the other side. I then screw a tee nut on this bolt (note the lining up of teeth and holes):
NOTE: Pretend that there is a bolt going into the tee nut - I didn't get a pic!
Then I use a pair of beefy pliers (don't know the correct term for them) and hold the tee nut exactly where the holes line up with the teeth:
I then use a 10mm socket and wrench to start pulling the tee nut into the wood. When it has a few mm to go (1/16"), I get out the epoxy and slap it underneath the nut like so:
Then STILL HOLDING ONTO THE TEE NUT WITH THE PLIERS, I continue to drive the nut home. I hold onto the nut with the pliers until the last possible moment, otherwise bent teeth and a bust tee nut is what usually results
Once done it should look something like this:
Wait for the epoxy to dry and then you can drill some small pilot holes and then drive a few "Harley Screws" home to really make sure. Then a slather it all over with some more epoxy for good measure (as you really don't want these suckers EVER coming loose... trying to get to them once the sub is built would mean chopping into the cab and a total PITA).
NOTE: Picture is pre-slathering!
I figure that my(?) method of pre-drilling the tee nut teeth holes makes the tee nuts less likely to bend (as I originally had big problems getting them to bite cleanly into BB). Even if your holes are not perfectly lined up with the teeth, it provides a 'weakness' in the wood which the tee nut can exploit. In this instance the teeth will displace the wood in its way into the void of the drilled hole and a nicely seated tee nut will result. I am slightly worried that this weakness may make the tee nuts slightly less secure then if you just tried to drive them home without these holes, but once you drive a couple of screws into the assembly, it will 'tighten' up (compress) the wood and close any small holes/voids in the wood.
) and 'Harley Screws'. I decided to use the circular spacers, as I now know how to use my router a little better (last time it was a jigsaw job!).
Pump pliers, Water-pump pliers or Multi-grip pliers.
