SLA's for the home.

[But it Hertz]

Are the crossover components 250 volt capacitors? I wasn't quite sure. Also, I know the plans say 18 ga. or 20 ga. air core induercs are fine, would 18 ga. make any difference?

Yep. All the larger caps are DMPC 250V Polypropylene Capacitors like this from Parts Express or Leland.

All the inductors are 20awg air core like this.

Not sure if 18 awg would make any difference on SLA's. They are very sensitive and don't need much power! Mine seem to be OK with 20awg but I haven't done a comparison.

[anikun07]

Thanks for the reply. I put in my shopping list at PE and it looks like three SLAs will be $320 for components. Not bad considering what their output Is supposed to be. Where do you have your crossover set to for yours? I'm getting really excited to build them soon even though I don't know where I'm going to put them in my living room yet.

[But it Hertz]

You are going to love them! Just started my curved center last night. Can't wait.

I experimented with 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95, 100 and I settled on 87! In the end I basically looked at the the REW curve and decided that was about right / and it kind of sounded best for me as well. I suppose it depends on your ear, how skillful you are at the art of EQ, your room and how the whole system chimes in together.

I think I read Bill say he crosses his over at 100?? He might chime in.

I just got my Onkyo TX-NR818 out of its box tonight. A can't believe how well the Audessy MultEQ XT32 works. It puts my countless EQing hours to shame

I think the 818 told me it crossed over at 80Hz. I need to read the manual to decifer the messages. It sounds fab anyway, that's all I care about.

[anikun07]

That sounds good, I'll probably crossover at 90Hz when I have them built. I bought Black Hawk Down this week, I'm waiting 'til I have my SLAs made to watch it though. My Yamaha AVR has YPAO but I don't think that does anything as far as true EQ to keep a flat SPL response. Do you use any kind of EQ like MiniDSP (I think that's what it's called, at least)? I've read in a thread or two that it helps make the speakers sound even better.

[But it Hertz]

Do you use any kind of EQ like MiniDSP (I think that's what it's called, at least)? I've read in a thread or two that it helps make the speakers sound even better.

Yes I have a miniDSP. It can make it sound better as well as worse!!

Great toy.... but allow 2 weeks for it to arrive from Hong Kong. I don't think they have any US based distributors yet.

[anikun07]

Can you explain how it works, I was looking at their website but didn't quite understand what I would need. I assume you have at least a 5.1 surround system, so what devices did you get? If I recall, you got a MiniDSP and MiniAmp? Which version does multi-channel?

[But it Hertz]

I contributed to a thread here. It has links to the miniDSP website. Hopefully it answers your questions. Happy to answer more if not.

I'm not using it right now as the receiver is taking care of everything in 5.1 world... but before I was running it in 2.1 mode with a 4 channel (2 plus bridged for the sub) amplifier.

I'm not sure if miniDSP has any 5.1 processing options... it would be a pain to implement even if it did. I would think in your situation if there is no sub DSP, you could use the miniDSP to wrestle the sub into submission and let your receiver take care of the rest.

Hope this makes sense!

[Patrick Mos]

your SLA's are looking awesome But It Hertz...

Could it be possible to link 3 mini dsp's together? And put them on your pre amp in? Looks to me you can alter your speakers seperatly. But a pain in the butt to get it right.

Looking into the minidsp myself, I've got a good deal on a second hand one.

[But it Hertz]

your SLA's are looking awesome But It Hertz...

Could it be possible to link 3 mini dsp's together? And put them on your pre amp in? Looks to me you can alter your speakers seperatly. But a pain in the butt to get it right.

Looking into the minidsp myself, I've got a good deal on a second hand one.

Thanks

It might be possible, and they have bigger versions with more in's and out's available as well... but having just spent $1000 on a receiver and then quickly learned that I can't EQ for shit versus the Audessy software, I'm inclined to leave well alone right now I finally have a system that I'm really proud of, and don't have to introduce as "here it is ... it's not quite there yet ...."

Having said that - you should definitely get the used miniDSP. You'll learn so much... and they do give good results.... but you'll loose hours though, I promise! And you'll never stop tweaking!

[anikun07]

Could you explain what you used for the driver baffle seal? Is that rubber you used available at the hardware store? For the THT I used the D shaped weather stripping to seal the driver access hole. I figured actual baffle sealer would get pricey for 18 of them. I'm about ready to place my order. . Oh, did the crossover boards come with the speaker wire leads already connected? They looked pressed into the board.

[But it Hertz]

Could you explain what you used for the driver baffle seal? Is that rubber you used available at the hardware store? For the THT I used the D shaped weather stripping to seal the driver access hole. I figured actual baffle sealer would get pricey for 18 of them.

Sure, I used this stuff from Ace Hardware for no other reason than I had an Ace store really close by!

Since then I have used proper speaker gasket from Parts Express and I have to say it works better and is cheaper.... but the Ace hardware is a good quick fix if you want to finish something quickly! The Parts Express gasket stuff is softer, cuts easier, is more kinda sticky to the touch and squashes down more as you tighten the bolts. I prefer it.

Oh, did the crossover boards come with the speaker wire leads already connected? They looked pressed into the board.

They are spade terminals riveted onto the board. You'll need to make your own cables with crimp on spade terminals like this.

I used to have a really expensive ratcheting crimp tool which I loved but it went walking on a job. I got a Harbor Freight replacement and even though I feel dirty saying it, it actually works just fine! You can find it here. If you get one in the store, check that it works properly before you buy it. Some of them stick closed!

Hope this helps

[anikun07]

Yep, helped a lot. Thanks!

Oh, I and know what you mean about HF. Some things certainly are hit or miss. I was just there last weekend for a dust collector. I'm excited to get it set up for when I build the speakers. I also have to fix my panel jig because it's not resting flat on the table saw. I made my THT about a year ago and I just got my table saw and it ran perfect. I made the subwoofer without any trouble. Then a month later I used the saw for something and it made a weird clanking sound like the bearings inside the motor were loose so I exchanged it and since then my panel jig hasn't fit properly. I even tried redoing it with the two have and oak backer, but it hasn't been the same.

So anyway, I have a little but of prep work to do before I get started on building but that will just help pass the time it takes for shipping. PE said they were out of GW-4028s last night, too. Since I don't have the drivers yet, I've been wondering/wanting to clarify the holes for the drivers. 3 3/4 inches is the diameter of the hole, and then 1/2 inch is taking out surrounding that hole for the seal and the driver mount to sit flush. I wish I had a plunge router because you make it look pretty easy. I was thinking about just getting a 3 3/4" hole saw and probably a 7/8" spade bit for the tweeters. I don't know if they make a 15/16" bit/blade unless I went with a wing cutter that I set to the specific diameter. I've never a wing cutter except on think acrylic plastic, is it a pain to work with on 3/4" wood? Again, thanks for the help.

[Zack Brock]

They also seem to play very well with the T18... Like they are a good match.... although I can imagine the t18 would be left behind a little watching a loud film with lots of low frequency content.

If your HT mains, center and surround out-power the T18, you could supplement it with a tactile transducer attached to your couch/chairs, something like the Buttkicker. I was skeptical about these until I recently bought one just for the hell of it. Works great, and gives you a perception of low frequency extension that you "hear" inside your body and head. Just food for thought. That or build another T18 and put it in an opposite corner. No crossover required for the Buttkicker by the way, just chain it off the signal going to your sub, or a full range pre-output on your receiver.

[But it Hertz]

I exchanged it and since then my panel jig hasn't fit properly.

Strange, you exchanged it for the same model, right?

So anyway, I have a little but of prep work to do before I get started on building but that will just help pass the time it takes for shipping. PE said they were out of GW-4028s last night, too. Since I don't have the drivers yet, I've been wondering/wanting to clarify the holes for the drivers. 3 3/4 inches is the diameter of the hole, and then 1/2 inch is taking out surrounding that hole for the seal and the driver mount to sit flush. I wish I had a plunge router because you make it look pretty easy. I was thinking about just getting a 3 3/4" hole saw and probably a 7/8" spade bit for the tweeters. I don't know if they make a 15/16" bit/blade unless I went with a wing cutter that I set to the specific diameter. I've never a wing cutter except on think acrylic plastic, is it a pain to work with on 3/4" wood? Again, thanks for the help.

Well, if you decide to do the same as me mounting wise here is a little jig / memory aid I made. I always make one of these so I don't have to do the leg work again. I wrote all the dimensions on the jig. Hopefully self explanatory. Ignore the little notches. This was me experimenting.

Getting a router was a turning point for me. They are expensive but oh, so worth it. Check out your local craigslist and cross reference with Amazon reviews. You might find a bargain!

PE said they were out of GW-4028s last night, too.

I have a pallet full of GW-4028's in my shop. I can sell some to you.

[But it Hertz]

If your HT mains, center and surround out-power the T18, you could supplement it with a tactile transducer attached to your couch/chairs, something like the Buttkicker. I was skeptical about these until I recently bought one just for the hell of it. Works great, and gives you a perception of low frequency extension that you "hear" inside your body and head. Just food for thought. That or build another T18 and put it in an opposite corner. No crossover required for the Buttkicker by the way, just chain it off the signal going to your sub, or a full range pre-output on your receiver.

Interesting about the Buttkicker. I'll look into it.

I feel the need to clarify my setup! I built the T18 for the office... I use my THTLP for the home theater along with my SLA's... and I'm currently going about building the center and surrounds.