Having trouble cutting wood like me? Now you can!!

[NCcrashman]

I know my drill bit device wasn't a "hit" too everyone, but this device WILL BE!! I've having a lot of trouble cutting wood too spec's but this thing is THE coolest!! The reviews I've read are amazing and it truly does the job of a table saw if you don't have one. It is a bit pricey but it does the job of a full-sized table saw for a fraction of the price and no electrician too run a 240 line. This thing will save my bacon!! I hope you guy's like it too!!http://www.eurekazone.com/content/ez-track-system-108
~Patrick~

[Dan30]

I have one of these. It works pretty good. My problem is compensating for blade width with my cuts.

[Jon Barnhardt]

I have one of these. It works pretty good. My problem is compensating for blade width with my cuts.

Cut your piece you want to keep on the left side of the track. (if you are right handed) Then the kerf won't matter...

[NCcrashman]

Off topic, but I've always been curious as to which side of your line too cut. I've always assumed dead middle but someone told me outside too compinsate for the kerf.

[NCcrashman]

I have one of these. It works pretty good. My problem is compensating for blade width with my cuts.

Do you have to use a square to align this thing or does it have something built in? I'm also curious if having excess track hanging off the end matters? I want a bigger track for larger pieces but some pieces are 3' or smaller too.
Thanks for the input!!
~Patrick~

[Radian]

Off topic, but I've always been curious as to which side of your line too cut. I've always assumed dead middle....

Pick a side, but not dead center. On the workpiece side of the line, you'll have to account for the saw kerf. If you stay on the scrap-side of the line, you don't have to account for the kerf. The saw should be cutting so that your pencil or chalk line is just being grazed by the edge of the teeth. Enough to fuzz up or cut the mark in half. That'll keep you within +/- 1mm.

[Jon Barnhardt]

Off topic, but I've always been curious as to which side of your line too cut. I've always assumed dead middle....

Pick a side, but not dead center. On the workpiece side of the line, you'll have to account for the saw kerf. If you stay on the scrap-side of the line, you don't have to account for the kerf. The saw should be cutting so that your pencil or chalk line is just being grazed by the edge of the teeth. Enough to fuzz up or cut the mark in half. That'll keep you within +/- 1mm.

+1

[NCcrashman]

Off topic, but I've always been curious as to which side of your line too cut. I've always assumed dead middle....

Pick a side, but not dead center. On the workpiece side of the line, you'll have to account for the saw kerf. If you stay on the scrap-side of the line, you don't have to account for the kerf. The saw should be cutting so that your pencil or chalk line is just being grazed by the edge of the teeth. Enough to fuzz up or cut the mark in half. That'll keep you within +/- 1mm.

+1 is right. Thank you very much for the tip!!!!

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

it truly does the job of a table saw if you don't have one.

So does the circular saw sled in the Panel Jig plans, at 1/50 the cost.

[Jon Barnhardt]

So does the circular saw sled in the Panel Jig plans, at 1/50 the cost.

+1

But the above, when teamed with the bridge and DIY table, becomes one quick, straight line cutting machine...