Finally starting my build
- LelandCrooks
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Re: Finally starting my build
These are the directions from a guide I wrote for another cab.
Remove the bolt. Repeat for all 8 holes, remixing epoxy as needed. After the glue dries, and before installing the driver, spin a bolt through each nut to make sure the threads are clean. If not, you will need to get a 10-32 tap to run through the nut.
Apply a little epoxy to the barrel ONLY of the hurricane nut, DO NOT GET EPOXY ON THE BOLT THREADS!
Holding the hurricane nut, tighten the bolt with the wrench just until the flat part of the hurricane is tight against the baffle. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, just pull it snugly.
Remove the bolt. Repeat for all 8 holes, remixing epoxy as needed. After the glue dries, and before installing the driver, spin a bolt through each nut to make sure the threads are clean. If not, you will need to get a 10-32 tap to run through the nut.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com
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Re: Finally starting my build
Thanks, that was fast.
I need to get a few of those brushes. It looks like I should put on more epoxy than I have been.
I got a set of taps to chase out the threads.
I need to get a few of those brushes. It looks like I should put on more epoxy than I have been.
I got a set of taps to chase out the threads.
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Re: Finally starting my build
Well, hurricane nuts still suck boulders.
I'm having to apply enough force that my 3/16" allen key got bent.
Even when it's getting in there, as often as not the nut spins with less than 1/16" to go, which means I haven't a prayer of stopping the spin with a pair of pliers.
Not to complain, but this is an area where the standard solution isn't good enough.

I'm having to apply enough force that my 3/16" allen key got bent.
Even when it's getting in there, as often as not the nut spins with less than 1/16" to go, which means I haven't a prayer of stopping the spin with a pair of pliers.
Not to complain, but this is an area where the standard solution isn't good enough.

- LelandCrooks
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Re: Finally starting my build
How big a pilot hole did you drill? 1/4" for a #10 nut. You should not be pulling anywhere near hard enough to twist an allen wrench.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com
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Re: Finally starting my build
Next question: if you absolutely ruin the hole for the h-nut, what do you do? I'm just lucky I didn't end up having to hacksaw out the bolt.
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Re: Finally starting my build
Well, that explains a lot I was using 3/16" holes. I suppose that's just a tad smaller than it wants to be.LelandCrooks wrote:How big a pilot hole did you drill? 1/4" for a #10 nut. You should not be pulling anywhere near hard enough to twist an allen wrench.
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Re: Finally starting my build
well, I drilled a 1/4" pilot hole, and the SOB spun on me. Then I couldn't back out the bolt without spinning the nut. So I had to punch the bolt out in the other direction, and use channel locks to get the nut off the bolt.
Miserable.
I guess I'll try hammering the H-nuts into a 1/4" hole with some epoxy to lube thing up.
Miserable.
I guess I'll try hammering the H-nuts into a 1/4" hole with some epoxy to lube thing up.
- LelandCrooks
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Re: Finally starting my build
Too much muscle. It's a real feel thing. Just pull it flush to the ply, just till the epoxy oozes out. I set them with my drill and the torque clutch set to 5 IIRC.
Are you going in to baltic birch or regular ply? In regular ply the spline type tee nuts work best.
Are you going in to baltic birch or regular ply? In regular ply the spline type tee nuts work best.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com
http://www.speakerhardware.com
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Re: Finally starting my build
Going into BB.
The bolt will usually spin well before the H-nut is all the way in.
My first baffle I did with 3/16 holes and minimal amounts of epoxy. My thumb was sore afterwards, so I left it for a while. but they did all go in. But when I chased out the threads with a tab, quite a lot of metal came out.
Maybe I should chase the threads out before mounting the h-nuts.
The bolt will usually spin well before the H-nut is all the way in.
My first baffle I did with 3/16 holes and minimal amounts of epoxy. My thumb was sore afterwards, so I left it for a while. but they did all go in. But when I chased out the threads with a tab, quite a lot of metal came out.
Maybe I should chase the threads out before mounting the h-nuts.
Re: Finally starting my build
Yes - use the tap on your h-nuts before mounting them. Then again once the epoxy has set, and generally it's not a bad idea to oil or grease them after you're done with the tap, just to keep rust from being an issue.
And, I use a 7/32" bit to drill my pilot holes.
And, I use a 7/32" bit to drill my pilot holes.
Low End Junkie for over 20 years.
4 DR250s
4 Tuba36s @ 30" wide
2 ATs
...and a very serious addiction to the smell of BB sawdust and curing PL.
4 DR250s
4 Tuba36s @ 30" wide
2 ATs
...and a very serious addiction to the smell of BB sawdust and curing PL.
- LelandCrooks
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Re: Finally starting my build
Doh!jcmbowman wrote:And, I use a 7/32" bit to drill my pilot holes.

If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com
http://www.speakerhardware.com
- Drey Chennells
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Re: Finally starting my build
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... r=081-1094
I haven't read the full thread so threaded inserts may have been mentioned already. I haven't had those spin on me..
Coarse thread wood screws with washers through a drop of silicone have worked great for applications with additional baffle thickness..
I haven't read the full thread so threaded inserts may have been mentioned already. I haven't had those spin on me..
Coarse thread wood screws with washers through a drop of silicone have worked great for applications with additional baffle thickness..
"Things happen, but music stays in your blood forever~." bf
InfraCoustik
Consulting/Design/Fabrication
Authorized BF Builder
http://www.infracoustik.com/
info@infracoustik.com
InfraCoustik
Consulting/Design/Fabrication
Authorized BF Builder
http://www.infracoustik.com/
info@infracoustik.com
Re: Finally starting my build
This may seem like an odd tool to use for setting t-nuts or h-nuts, and it was used in a pinch, Turned out to be the best tool for the job. An infant carseat belt clip. It doesnt warp, fits in and around tight spaces, and keeps the bolt head off the wood while setting so it doesnt leave a dent, better than a washer, aaaand you dont have to set it in place before tightenning the bolt. Just hook one of the 4 claw slots around the screw, perfect straight inserts every time. I have'nt had a single nut spin on me.
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Built: T-60's, T48's, T-39's, DR250's, DR200's, Pro SLA's
Re: Finally starting my build
Actually, no "Doh!" required, they're specced for a 1/4 hole, I just wanted an extra tight fit since the first time I did hurricane nuts for the T36s I wound up spinning 3 of them on one driver when I went to take it out.LelandCrooks wrote:Doh!jcmbowman wrote:And, I use a 7/32" bit to drill my pilot holes.
Low End Junkie for over 20 years.
4 DR250s
4 Tuba36s @ 30" wide
2 ATs
...and a very serious addiction to the smell of BB sawdust and curing PL.
4 DR250s
4 Tuba36s @ 30" wide
2 ATs
...and a very serious addiction to the smell of BB sawdust and curing PL.
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- Posts: 931
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2010 11:46 pm
- Location: Minneapolis, MN
Re: Finally starting my build
So, I'm having trouble chasing the threads out on h-nuts: I don't have enough finger power to do it without vise-grips to hold them, but the jaws leave nasty ugly marks on the edges. Any suggestions besides a bench vise (I have one I inherited from my brother, but no place to mount it)?