Guide board PL issue...

[GirlyHandedDog]

Okay, I completely overlooked the possibility that the guideboard might get glued in place by the squeeze-out from the panel joint...and now i can't get my guide board off. Any tips?

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Any tips?

Remove the guide board immediately after fastening the joint. As for what to do now, use a universal fitting tool:

[GirlyHandedDog]

Any tips?

Remove the guide board immediately after fastening the joint. As for what to do now, use a universal fitting tool:

I just happen to have a few UFTs lying around. Thanks for the info.

[GirlyHandedDog]

It worked! Time to go build a new guideboard...

[bzb]

A large chamfer on one edge of the guideboard might help in some cases.

[subharmonic]

Okay, I completely overlooked the possibility that the guideboard might get glued in place by the squeeze-out from the panel joint...and now i can't get my guide board off. Any tips?

After I did the same thing the first time I scoured the forums until I found someone talking about wax paper. Buy a roll and put that between the joint and guideboard, or anything potentially touching PL. Works like a champ. I keep a roll in the garage now, in fact I just used it to put a stain can on and it is under the caulking gun resting place when using PL.

Also a multi-master is a good way to remove stuck objects, buy will scar one or both ajoining pieced of wood. Heck of a tool to have on hand. Bronco would have one!

[Bruce Weldy]

Build you a couple of these....much better than guide boards.

Easy to build. Cut a notch on the back corner and the glue will never touch 'em. Plus, they keep the panels much straighter the a 2 inch guide board can.

[jcmbowman]

I tried the wax paper and didn't like the way it kept trying to unroll. So I just got some plastic food wrap (Reynolds Wrap, Saran Wrap, etc.) and it works like a charm. The PL will NOT stick to it.

[GirlyHandedDog]

Hopefully my wife doesn't need wax paper any time soon, as it has been moved permanently from the kitchen to the garage. I'll give the plastic wrap a try if needed.

Bruce, that is an awesome idea! No more trying to clamp an 1/8th" thick framing square to my panels. Thanks for making my life easier!

[Bruce Weldy]

And no wax paper needed. With the inside corners cut off, glue isn't an issue.

Bill really ought to put those W-jigs in the Jig plans. They are easy to make and way better than a guide board for panels.

[Tom Smit]

Bruce, what do you use for the inner panels on a sub, or, how do you install the inner panels of a sub using the W-cauls? Do you have pics?

[Bruce Weldy]

Bruce, what do you use for the inner panels on a sub, or, how do you install the inner panels of a sub using the W-cauls? Do you have pics?

Here's the cool part. You don't have to attach the caul/jig to the side (the panel laying down as you build). Just attach it to the upright panel and it acts like a foot. Also, since the interior panels are being attached to other panels - that holds them square.

In fact, after the T39s, I've used 'em many times - and I rarely clamp to the bottom board, just the one standing up. They are very stable just acting as a foot and the weight keeps them from falling over the other way......

Hope that makes sense.

[Tom Smit]

Thanks.

But what do you do when the panel leans away from the W-caul? Do you put it on the other side instead?

[Bruce Weldy]

Thanks.

But what do you do when the panel leans away from the W-caul? Do you put it on the other side instead?

The panels always stand straight up. The weight of the W-caul keeps the panel standing up most of the time. Sometimes I'll put one on opposite sides and opposite ends. But mostly, it just keeps it perpendicular while you attach it to another upright panel.

Here's an example that I found where I used it on the case braces for a WH10. In this case I attached it to the bottom board since the brace was too small. It served as an alignment tool - held it tight against it while tacking it in place with the brad nailer.

[Tom Smit]

Thanks!