Which Amp for a THT?

[phenixdragon]

So I decided on getting a THT built, but I am unsure about an amp. I really like the idea of a rack mounted amp over a plate but I am open to either. I was looking at the Dayton Audio SA1000 which is $400 but also was looking at a Bash 500W Digital Subwoofer Amplifier for $240. I can afford $400 but I wouldn't mind saving $160 either, so I am conflicted. I do like how the Dayton also will shutoff and turn back on automatically when being used or not. Granted the power savings would never end up to be $160 in my lifetime. But I am open to suggestions on these or if anyone else has any other options I should look at.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Get the BASH. The 300w version is plenty.

[phenixdragon]

There is a fallacy in that. There is never plenty.

But I guess what I am looking for is if there is any other brands/models I should look at or that also could be rack mountable. If not, I think I will pick up the Bash and save a few bucks.

[Drey Chennells]

bash_300_001_phixr.jpg (25.63 KiB) Viewed 2654 times

[phenixdragon]

Ended up ordering the Dayton SA1000. Having the ability to rack mount it was too much to turn away from. Makes it much more conveniente for me to access.

However, though, not really sure why you guys recommend the Bash 300 when the drive can handle the Bash 500 and it matches better.

[Drey Chennells]

The Dayton 1000 is great with the eq and such, but dial in at least minimal protection with your gain settings to moderate your voltage since you have enough to overdrive your sub. Spikes will still get through especially with lfe so take it easy on the gas until you're familiar with the voltage vs. output levels. You also have a subsonic filter there which would be prudent to use if you're going to push it. I have one cinema system using an array of THTs and EP4000, each has 60volts+ available per but they don't ever see near that much (high passed and limited).

It's not about a drivers' thermal /mechanical power ratings, it's the system as a unit.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

However, though, not really sure why you guys recommend the Bash 300 when the drive can handle the Bash 500 and it matches better.

The same reason why I don't use premium gasoline in my car: it goes just as fast, rides and handles just as well, and I spend less money.

[phenixdragon]

Gas is a bad comparison. I can get into a lot of details on it but using a higher octane in a motor designed for lower octane actually hurts the performance of what you are getting. Higher octanes burn slower but are more powerful. The problem is with running higher octane then what a motor was designed for is that it is not made to have a slower burn and a slower burn also decreases the amount of explosions thus decreasing the overall performance from that motor. It’s really more detailed then that but that’s the basis of it. Now running a lower octane then what a motor was designed for actually harms the motor and overtime, ruins the motor prematurely. I can go on and on about this. Huge pet peeve of mine.

But in regards to audio, I do know that running an amp that is not pared properly to the speakers can turn out lesser sound then if you match amp properly. I would go with the Bash 500 over the 300 because of that, and it’s just a few bucks more. But I do trust you in saying that the 300 will work just fine. It’s not all cases that having a underpowered amp will create lesser sound from the driver. All in all though, I was more interested in another rack mount amp cheaper then the SA1000 but I think I will be happy with it.

[DJPhatman]

Octane rating is actually gasoline's resistance against premature detonation, also known as spark knock. Not really a problem in your standard average compression ratio engine, but is a real problem in a high compression, high revving or forced induction engine. I drive a high compression, supercharged Impala SS that simply cannot run on any gasoline with an octane rating lower than 93 (spark knock/pre-detonation robs power and damages engine internals). It's a factory engine with a few "fixes" added on.

On topic, The reason the Bash 300 is sufficient is because:
1) after 100 watts you only gain 3dB for every doubling of power, until power compression sets in.

2) you will do structural and hearing damage before you get to the Bash 300's peak.

3) if you really want more noise, you need to add cabinets and mouth area.

[phenixdragon]

Octane rating is actually gasoline's resistance against premature detonation, also known as spark knock. Not really a problem in your standard average compression ratio engine, but is a real problem in a high compression, high revving or forced induction engine. I drive a high compression, supercharged Impala SS that simply cannot run on any gasoline with an octane rating lower than 93 (spark knock/pre-detonation robs power and damages engine internals). It's a factory engine with a few "fixes" added on.

Yes, you just said what I said. But also what I also said is with a higher rating, you have a slower burn. Slower burns means less detonation per minute thus, depending on the motor, lowering the overall output of performance. Going too low of an octane degrades the motor prematurely, not just knock but other ways too. I know all too much about this. And speaking of cars, 2010 Camaro SS Twin Turbo here. None of that weak supercharger stuff for me since I like low end power and having a high torque spike at low RPMs that turbos give you is amazing. And also a Gixxer 750, but I always feel there is never enough torque on that though.

[dholcombe]

Earlier in this thread Bill recommended the BASH 300. What about a couple Daytons below? I like them because they have continuous phase adjustment, but haven't used either brand

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=300-813 Dayton 230External 85 dB S/N
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=300-807 Dayton 500 Plate 98 db S/N
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=300-750 Bash 300 Plate 105 S/N

The Dayton's have 0-180 phase adjustment. The Bash has either 0 or 180 phase. Otherwise the Bash seems to be better based on specs alone. I see a lot of people using Behringer Europower amps, but those seem completely overpowered so I can't figure out why.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I see a lot of people using Behringer Europower amps, but those seem completely overpowered so I can't figure out why.

Because they're used to inefficient direct radiator boxes.

[dholcombe]

Thanks for the fast reply. I've been looking around some more and found the O Audio 300W Bash amp. It's similar to the Bash amp at PE, but has continuous 0-180 phase adustment. http://www.oaudio.com/300W_SUBAMP.html I think I'll probably go with this one. They have a 500W for not much more, but I don't see any reason to get it other than "just in case" I plan to swap it into some other future project.

[robbbby]

I know that because these subs have such great efficiency it is recommended to go with a low wattage plate amplifier, but i'd rather not have a plate laying on the floor or fabricate a box for it. Can you guys recommend an external amp for a THT that isn't overkill and has a simple face design that will fit in with my other components.

[BrentEvans]

I know that because these subs have such great efficiency it is recommended to go with a low wattage plate amplifier, but i'd rather not have a plate laying on the floor or fabricate a box for it. Can you guys recommend an external amp for a THT that isn't overkill and has a simple face design that will fit in with my other components.

Behringer A500. It does not have a lowpass filter though.