BillFitzmaurice.info

Ha! They've replaced them all a number of times. I bet at least 8 to 10 drivers over the last year and a half. If we could find something even close that won't just blow up at the drop of a hat they'd be happy. I can't obviously control what goes on when I'm not there, but I keep a very close eye on...

When I go there I'll pop out the drivers and make sure there's nothing weird going on inside the box and measure it.

Best guess is about 10000 cu inches

Vent hole size about 28 sq inches, but I can measure it from the inside to be exact...

I understand they are designed around a specific driver, but I don't have the driver specs and it's just a box...it's not some special super baffled design. I would think I could get the volume of the box and the vent size and at least get in the ballpark. I'm not new to speaker building, I have bui...

Here is what they look like. I can't imagine it'd be hard to determine what kind of driver specs would be acceptable for a box with a vent. They aren't horn loaded or band pass or anything at all. Here's a pic.

Yes I know Bill that they are crap...LOL, but it's what they have and short of building a new stage it's what they have to deal with as well unfortunately...

All that's on the driver is a part number and some other numbers on the magnet....then a small sticker with order number and serial number on the basket.

P/N 0010140
LC12/3007-B

are the numbers on the magnet...

Do I need the specs on teh original driver other that the mounting holes to determine if I can put something better in there? These things are pretty crappy, so I'd bet I could put almost anything in there and they'd be better... I think even the listed sensitivity is about 92, but that's with proce...

They are literally just a box with a rectangular vent in the top(side) depending on orientation. Do I just need the dimensions of the box and vent size? I'm just trying to help them out as it seems they blow a driver about every couple of months, and the OEM EAW drivers they are putting in there are...

I work at a small music venue where they are having a problem with blown subs. They are installed under the stage, so building new ones or replacing them with better stuff isn't an option really without rebuilding the entire stage. My question is is there some software or suggestions for replacement...

While I agree that BFM designs are pretty damn good, you have to remember the most important parts of the signal chain are the musicians making the noise and the person controlling how that noise gets to the audience. I've heard million dollar rigs sound like crap and I've heard a couple beat up spe...

This has been a long time coming! I bought the plans probably 2-3 years ago and had to get updates to the DR280 before I built them for sure. I finished the wood on the DR280s probably nearly a year ago, but the empty boxes sat in storage until about a month ago. I had a gig on a Saturday and finish...

I haven't heard much good about the xTis. The Lab Gruppen is a ridiculously expensive amp for what it it($2500 USD+). The crossover functionality of an xTi amp has no influence on my as I'm looking for a 4 channel amp for strictly monitor use, and none of my monitors are bi-amped. Why doesn't someon...

Which 4 channel amp are you using for the wedges?

This particular model would have been nice if I would have known about it before building my DR280s:

http://www.usspeaker.com/sh-tophat-ch-1.htm

These would rock for any DR cabinet that was going to have a pole mount, and much easier than the router trick shown in the plans for a regular top hat.

I built a pair of Tuba 24s a while ago, and finally decided to bite the bullet and build myself some tops. The DR280 was my choice. This was due to power handling, flatter response than the DR250, output, and some protection from overpowering(I used the Delta Pro 12). They are to the point of needin...