BillFitzmaurice.info

If I understand correctly, you're trying to use google sketchup to get access to updated versions of the plans?? If that's the case, then here's the explanation, I hope it helps: Google Sketchup is just a software tool used for viewing 3D models of the designs. When you receive a plan from Bill, he ...

Most residential internet users do NOT have static IP addresses. The IP I'm on at the moment is 72.71.226.72, Fairpoint Communications, Manchester (US). I don't own Fairpoint Communications, I don't live in Manchester NH, and 72.71.226.72 does not in any way identify my computer or home address or ...

I got a kick out of Gregory East's post where he said something like, "Sometimes I'm motivated to read a big wall of text. Not today." I definitely wouldn't have read this post if I hadn't written it. Just to keep people from being overwhelmed I'll keep this short. Most residential intern...

Chemical engineering ;-) Besides, even engineers can be ignorant. Those miniDSP kits look awesome, lots of ability to manipulate the signals. I have three brothers who are Chem E.'s, and my dad was a chemist for 40 years. If you can manage that level of specialization, you have the learning skills ...

For splitting the signal, you may wish to consider one of the options here:

http://www.minidsp.com/

You are an engineering student, right?

The only way I could think of to do that would be to use something like the DCX2496 that will let you set a HPF for the sub(s) and then send a full-range signal to the buttkicker and let its internal X-over filter out the highs.

Okay - I should amend my statement - slow and easy works best when you're dealing with little pieces like a hurricane nut. If you're tapping the threads on a nut that's welded to your car frame, that's a different story.

jjohnson wrote:since the braces are glued on edge the veneered faces wouldn't matter. I know that you don't want to fasten to the veneered side but the edge should be fine.

+1

So, I'm having trouble chasing the threads out on h-nuts: I don't have enough finger power to do it without vise-grips to hold them, but the jaws leave nasty ugly marks on the edges. Any suggestions besides a bench vise (I have one I inherited from my brother, but no place to mount it)? If it's tha...

vann wrote:it's better to use even that veneered 12mm or slimmer ply for braces?

that's your answer.

First off - welcome to the the forum! unless I'm mistaken and there's another haven for engineering geeks in northern Michigan, you're hailing from wonderful Michigan Tech. I have a lot of friends who wen to school up there, and considering the sheer volume of snowfall you get, I'm not surprised you...

And, I use a 7/32" bit to drill my pilot holes. Doh! :oops: Actually, no "Doh!" required, they're specced for a 1/4 hole, I just wanted an extra tight fit since the first time I did hurricane nuts for the T36s I wound up spinning 3 of them on one driver when I went to take it out.

Yes - use the tap on your h-nuts before mounting them. Then again once the epoxy has set, and generally it's not a bad idea to oil or grease them after you're done with the tap, just to keep rust from being an issue.

And, I use a 7/32" bit to drill my pilot holes.

Every pair of Monster Cable RCA to RCA wires I've had (purchased, left by a DJ at a gig, etc..) has lasted less than a year with regular use. I suppose if you just plug them in once and never move them, they'd be fine. But for me, they always come apart or short out at one of the ends. They always p...

A good starting point for a ballpark estimate is 10% of the -replacement- value. So for DIY boxes calculate the cost of materials, PLUS the time it took to build (assuming that an experienced woodworker was doing the work). But... you need to factor in what other people around you are charging for s...