Tuba HT low profile

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Fatso
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Tuba HT low profile

#1 Post by Fatso »

Well I decided to chronicle my project. Seems no one here at home cares, they think I'm nuts. So every now and then some one say something so I will feel motivated :D .

Got the Dayton 15" RSS390HF-4 and the O-audio 300 watt amp (looks like a nice amp) when I ordered my BB ply. I sent a 10V 25 hz tone thru the driver for 12 hours. Waiting on the wood.

Problem #1 ordered wood didn't come. Supplier said he could get it elsewhere for $70 a sheet. I scraped out my pants and told him I'd study on it. Lucky for me I stopped in a Lowe's in the next town and found the Auraco for $30 per.

Got 3 sheets and ripped them to make an 18" x 24 1/2" cab. 1st side is marked and sled made. Think that'll do it for today. Thank you all for your help so far. Cussing starts tomorrow. I think I'm going to opt for pneumatic brad nailer rather than DW screws. I think they will be more forgiving (smaller diameter) with less chance of splitting.

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subharmonic
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#2 Post by subharmonic »

I was hoping you would start a thread.

Sounds like you are off to a good start. Acuaro makes a fine horn, take your time to clamp it well as you cut to push/pull any warp out.

Safety reminder with brad nailers. Sometimes you will "wing" the board, if it is bad enough you will hear the brad pinging around your work area. If it is really bad you will feel it hit your hand, holding the board from the far side. KEEP IN MIND WHERE YOUR BODY PARTS ARE IN RELATION TO THE DIRECTION OF THE NAILER.
2x T39, 1x T60, 1x THTLP, 1x AT(not built by me) 6x DR250
I need more bass

But this gal's built like a burlap bag full of bobcats
CW Mcall

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Fatso
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#3 Post by Fatso »

Thanks for the advice.... I'll watch out for that.

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Jon Barnhardt
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#4 Post by Jon Barnhardt »

I've sent my share of Brads flying around the shop, in fact almost hit the dog the other day :shock:

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LelandCrooks
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#5 Post by LelandCrooks »

Clamp that stuff down somehow. It warps after you cut it. Especially with the size of panels a tht requires Cut some 1 1/2 wide strips, stand them on edge, put on the face and clamp it all together until you take sheets out to build the box.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com

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Jon Barnhardt
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#6 Post by Jon Barnhardt »

+1

I clamp everything cut and even have 4 tires laying over the stack of uncut

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Fatso
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#7 Post by Fatso »

panel 1 on. That was an effort! I hope this gets easier.

You scared me with the brad projectile threat. I will use screws

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Dan30
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#8 Post by Dan30 »

Always lay the pieces that you cut flat. I made the mistake of laying them on their side when building my T39 and the top panel and a few others warped. It wasn't pretty.

I also find that assembling the cabs as fast, and as square as possible to be the best method when working with Arauco. No matter how much you keep it clamped straight it wants to fight against you.
T39 24" 3012lf (1 built 1 in progress)
SLA Pro x 2
Yamaha S112V x 1
QSC RMX 2450
dbx Driverack PA

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subharmonic
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#9 Post by subharmonic »

Fatso wrote:panel 1 on. That was an effort! I hope this gets easier.

You scared me with the brad projectile threat. I will use screws
Don't be scared, just practice a bit and respect the tool. When I ... .... er the other guy did that he was being stooooopid and hurrying, possibly accident prone and sleep deprived too. Any of these tools can hurt you if your in the wrong place at the wrong time.
2x T39, 1x T60, 1x THTLP, 1x AT(not built by me) 6x DR250
I need more bass

But this gal's built like a burlap bag full of bobcats
CW Mcall

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Jon Barnhardt
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#10 Post by Jon Barnhardt »

Fatso wrote:panel 1 on. That was an effort! I hope this gets easier.

You scared me with the brad projectile threat. I will use screws
I was nailing a angled butt joint. My approach wasn't steep enuf and the nail glanced instead of penetrated.

(wow, with adjectives like that, I could write porn novels!)

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Fatso
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#11 Post by Fatso »

Panels laid flat with weight on them. I think the screws will be easier. Lets me spend a minutes lining things up before fastening. Using the nail gun I would be tempted to aim and shoot.

Hoping to make some progress today!

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Fatso
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#12 Post by Fatso »

Panels 1-5 now installed. Almost cut off a hand trying to make a 52 degree cut. Complimentary angles are nice with wood thicker than 1/2 inch. Will someone come over and cut my driver panel? I can't find my jigsaw and I do not have a plunge router.....

Oh well back to Lowe's I guess.

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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#13 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

Fatso wrote:I do not have a plunge router.....
Any router can plunge cut. Just raise the body to full height, leave the depth lock loose, turn it on, hold it firmly with one hand, use the other hand to turn the depth adjustment and lower the bit through the workpiece.

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Fatso
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#14 Post by Fatso »

thought about that. I guess that would be easier than a jig saw and a spiral bit would be cheaper than a jigsaw. I may give it a try.

On second thought attaching the base of the router to a home made jig may be tricky. I will have to see how brave I feel in the morning.

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Fatso
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#15 Post by Fatso »

As I sit here contemplating tomorrow I have a question / fear. :shock:

I have 1/4" bolts and T-nuts to mount the driver. There is zero wiggle room (bolt abd hole in the driver), good I guess, but no margin for error. What would be wrong with mounting the driver on the panel and then mounting the 2 together. I could use a spreader to support the backside of the driver while the PL cures.

Any tips for getting 8 holes perfectly aligned to mount the driver. I'm thinking screw 2 down opposite of each other and then mark the rest.

Seems like there will be very little wood between the edge of the cutout and the center of the t-nut. It appears that I will have to be careful with the rotation of the t-nut to keep the driver surround from contacting it.

I think this will be the biggest challenge of the build!?

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