Plywood - can I go mdf ?

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jfr1111
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Plywood - can I go mdf ?

#1 Post by jfr1111 »

I'm building an O15 TB and I've called a few local places and none of them carry the wood specified in the plans in a sufficient quality. The best I've scored is veneered 1/2" 5-ply spruce but the outer veneer is only for "looks": it's thin and the plywood is not guaranteed to be void-free. It looks to be warp free, but I wouldn't hold my breath on it not delamniating/acting screwy.

What some guys have recommended is going to 3/4 mdf, but its very heavy and I'm not looking forward to schelping something like that ! The other alternative is a select fir: it looks good, to me, has no voids but it is not a specified essence in the plans. Would I need more braces inside if I used something like this ?

PS: I'm such a newbie :( Should've paid more attention in shop classes.

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Greenman
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#2 Post by Greenman »

Select fir would be better than MDF. MDF does not do well with moisture let alone abuse.
Cheers
Brent K.

jfr1111
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#3 Post by jfr1111 »

So select fir would be an option (or is it better but not suitable). I've been on the phone ever since I posted and it just gets worse and worse with people recommending all sort of screwy stuff (solid maple!).

I've had one guy say to me that he has Baltic Brich, it's void-free, but he doesn't sell sheets unless I buy something crazy like 30 of them ! He said he might let me come to the shop and buy scraps, but that'll be more of a hassle than necessary if I can go another route.

Thanks!

PS: If push comes to shove, my girlfriend's father has a portative sawmill, he's bound to know a thing or two about good, reliable plywood sources. Thing is, he lives 80 miles from me and I'd rather not pay the gas both way for somethign that can found local.

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Greenman
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#4 Post by Greenman »

Baltic Birch is the way to go. I would make a cut list and see if the guy has scrap large enough for your pieces. Once you go Baltic you'll never go back. :)
Cheers
Brent K.

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Tim A
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#5 Post by Tim A »

Any A/C or A/B 5-ply will work.

Take the time to dig through the guy's Baltic scraps. Well worth the effort.

Strapping Young Stu
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#6 Post by Strapping Young Stu »

Yeah I would look into scraps as a reliable source for materials, just go in there with a tape measure and plenty of time so you can sort through the stuff to find what you need.

With stuff like that he benefits cos he gets rid of bits he cant use, and you benefit because he will probably let you have them for far less than the normal retail price.

I dont think there is any harm in mixing and matching plywood so long as its got plenty of laminates.

Stu

jfr1111
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#7 Post by jfr1111 »

Any A/C or A/B 5-ply will work.
What does that mean ? God, I'm such a n00b :)

jfr1111
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#8 Post by jfr1111 »

The guy was a bit, shall we say, evasive about the size of the scraps. And from the way he answered the phone, I don't think I should be bothering him unless I really, REALLY, need to, if you guys get my drift.

Sydney

#9 Post by Sydney »

APA American Plywood Rating system:
A/C = 1 side grade A the other side grade C
A = Smooth Paintable
B = Solid surface
C = some broke grain and repaired splits and knotholes
Last edited by Sydney on Fri May 02, 2008 12:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Tim A
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#10 Post by Tim A »

Like Sydney said, it's a grading system.

A/C means one side (A) should be flawless, sanded smooth. The other side will have some knots, maybe a few voids, and will be relatively smooth.

With A/B you get one perfect side and one side sanded smooth with the voids filled (those 'footballs' you see in plywood) and sanded.

If you look, you can usually find good A/C at 2/3 the price of A/B.

jfr1111
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#11 Post by jfr1111 »

Okay, thanks guys. So I gather that void free is important, but that 95% void less is also acceptable as long as the wood has one perfect face and another good face AND is straight. Makes sense since if it's still structurally strong, it doesn't matter if there is some voids inside.

I'll probably go back and take a good look @ the fir. It wasn't all that more expensive than the crap spruce they had on hand. It was around 20$ CAN for a 4x8 sheet, wich is pretty cheap actually (was thinking of spending much more on wood) so I can choose somethign nice if need be. I just didn't spend much attention since it wasn't specified in the plans.

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Tom
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#12 Post by Tom »

Your large building supply center should be able to get something out of this list with a special order:

1) Arauco 5-ply (fom Chile?)
2) Baltic birch 5-7 ply (from European sources?)
3) SPF (Spruce/Pine/Fir) sheeting, in the A/B or A/C grades detailed earlier.

In the USA, Lowes has the Arauco for 25 USD for a 4' x 8' sheet.

Canada produces some of the world's finest plywood, which should be available domestically. The trick is to get five or more plies in whatever you buy.

IME, the sheeting grades have more voids. The Arauco is nearly void-free, lighter, strong, straight. It is worth special ordering a few sheets if you can.

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DJPhatman
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#13 Post by DJPhatman »

Tom wrote:In the USA, Lowes has the Arauco for 25 USD for a 4' x 8' sheet.
Not everywhere! Here in SE Michigan, arauco is not stocked, and to order it, you MUST buy the whole pallet of 72 sheets! :shock: At a cost of <drumroll> $1730 USD! :shock: :roll: :shock: :roll: :shock:
I have a source for A-C 5-ply, at $25.25 USD per sheet, nice looking stuff, will work with it once my shoulder repair is rehab'ed.
I know money often seals the deal, but seriously, quality is an investment, not an expense... Grant Bunter
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice

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Tim A
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#14 Post by Tim A »

DJPhatman wrote: once my shoulder repair is rehab'ed.
How's that going DJ? Any improvement?

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Tom
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#15 Post by Tom »

DJPhatman wrote:
Tom wrote:you MUST buy the whole pallet of 72 sheets!
Was the salesman named Ben Dover? He used to work at Home Depot.

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