First post. Got the O10 and T39 plans, and intend on the O10.5 for first build. I searched and found only a couple references to the use of CNC for cutting panels. I've been thinking of using the Laser I operate every day to do the initial cuts. I have zero experience in working with wood, and I realize that there is subsequent cutting I'll have to do.
So, anyone have any experience they'd like to offer?
p.s. yeah, it's a laser capable of cutting 1" plate steel, so it's overkill, but it's what I've got. a proverb comes to mind: "Don't use cannon to kill mosquito."
Greetings Coyoteboy, wont the laser burn the wood? I don't weld or torch things but.....laser=heat.......wood+laser=fire....right?
I know you want to get to building but please read than read and read the instructions again, you wont regret it. A lot of mistakes happen when people are excited to do something.
Just a couple of steps a day. IMO
but I'm sure a lot of people will chime in and tell me I told you correctly.
Good luck and ask questions and please post pictures of your build as your doing it.
If you do it right, the laser will cut plywood just fine. you use nitrogen instead of oxygen as the assist gas. It turns the edges black, but that's easily removed, and you have nice square cuts.
Don't worry, I'm not in a hurry, and will wear out the plans reading them before I get started, but I have a hard time not thinking about dado and box joints!
coyoteboy wrote: but I have a hard time not thinking about dado and box joints!
Speaking from an extensive amount of experience in woodworking, and as someone who's made just about any joint imaginable, including dovetail, box (finger) dado, rabbet, drawer, dowel, mortise and tennon, biscuit, etc. etc. ad nauseum, I have absoluely no problem with using butt joints on these cabinets. The PL is extremely strong, and there are so many panels that get joined anything else is rendered unecessary.
Tim Ard wrote:Speaking from an extensive amount of experience in woodworking, and as someone who's made just about any joint imaginable, including dovetail, box (finger) dado, rabbet, drawer, dowel, mortise and tennon, biscuit, etc. etc. ad nauseum, I have absoluely no problem with using butt joints on these cabinets. The PL is extremely strong, and there are so many panels that get joined anything else is rendered unecessary.
+1
I've built several kitchens worth of cabinets over the years, and more built in book cases than I care to count.
It felt wrong to just be using butt joints on the speakers. But it really is OK. PL is much stronger than I would have expected, and the speakers have so much internal bracing and support that anything more than a butt joint is a waste of time.
coyoteboy wrote:Thanks Tom. They are kinda heavy...
is there a higher wattage capacity alternative to the 2510 that's suitable?
You don't need higher wattage with them. Need more noise? Build more cabinets! I built and use 2 O10s dual driver loaded, and, indoors, I can't give them more than 300WRMS or else they are too freaking LOUD!
They were built using the 2510 and 2 banks of 8 1016 piezos in a cross-fired array (before the melded option).
I know money often seals the deal, but seriously, quality is an investment, not an expense... Grant Bunter
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice
Hmm "higher wattage than the 2510..." OK, les' straighten youse out befur youse get too fur afield: I'm gonna make an edgumacated guess and assume you have been dealing with direct radiators most of your life.
Horns is different. Since you mentioned Bag End speakers, I'm pretty sure youre thinkin' this way. (They make very nice but very inefficient speakers and you need a huge amp to make them puppies sit up and bark.) You are most likely used to speakers that are 84 - 87 dB efficient (typical home audio) the most efficent direct radiators are somewhere in the neighborhood of 90 dB (give or take a couple dB) Some musical instrument speakers claim 100-102 dB (rarer indeed) with those numbers as a reference, look at the BF SPL charts again. Horns are much more efficient than direct radiators. The gains you get in dB are like tripling your amplifier power. (THis is why the tube audiophile tweekers use horns on their 3 watt SET amps, they wouldn't be able to hear them otherwise!)
The 2510 is a very decent driver that will handle 150-200 watts very well without much compression. It's easy to get significant dB gains by pouring in more watts - up to 200 watts (+23 dB). For 3 dB more you need to keep doubling power till you go bankrupt! +26 dB needs 400 watts, +29 dB needs 800 watts! (and you are well on the way to VC flambe' ignoring the fact that as the VC temp goes up- your efficiency goes down ... in flames!) This is why you are gonna hear people tell you over and over "if you need more dB, build more speakers". In the 'real world', if you need to put more than 150 watts into your top, then you need more tops. Same rule for subs.
There is no technical problem however complex, that cannot be solved or finessed by a direct application of brute strength and ignorance.
"Gimme the hammer... Naaaw not that one, the freakin' big one- I'll MAKE it fit!"
Addendum: Paul W. Klipsch used to say (about his Klipschorns) "what the world need now is a good 5 watt amplifier". What he implied was that the efficiency of the speaker is everything!
There is no technical problem however complex, that cannot be solved or finessed by a direct application of brute strength and ignorance.
"Gimme the hammer... Naaaw not that one, the freakin' big one- I'll MAKE it fit!"
Yeah, yeah, I know. That question was more in regards to dealing with the output of my amplifier than wanting more sound out of the same speaker. I could get a smaller amp, but I promised myself it was the last amp I'd buy. It's an Aguilar DB750 and me likey.
Thanks again, I knew it was a differn't world 'round here.
coyoteboy wrote:Yeah, yeah, I know. That question was more in regards to dealing with the output of my amplifier than wanting more sound out of the same speaker. I could get a smaller amp, but I promised myself it was the last amp I'd buy. It's an Aguilar DB750 and me likey.
Thanks again, I knew it was a differn't world 'round here.
1 word.....LIMITER!!!!!!!!!!!
I know money often seals the deal, but seriously, quality is an investment, not an expense... Grant Bunter
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice
Frankenspeakers wrote:Addendum: Paul W. Klipsch used to say (about his Klipschorns) "what the world need now is a good 5 watt amplifier". What he implied was that the efficiency of the speaker is everything!
Back in the 1970's, when I was in a Physics & Astronomy Explorer Post sponsored by the Physics & Astronomy Dept. at the Univ. of Arkansas at Little Rock, we made several yearly trips down to the Klipsch Speaker factory in Hope, AR. Paul Klipsch would personally conduct a tour of the Engineering and Manufacturing facility, take us to Lunch at a local restaurant, and then take us to his home. In his living room, he had three grand pianos - a Steinway and a Bosendorfer at one end, and an antique upright Grand (can't remember the brand) at the other end. He also had his three channel sound system - two Klipschorns, with a Belle Klipsch between them. The source material he played for us was Reel-to-Reel tapes that he had personally recorded of the Arkansas Symphony Orchestra. His amplifiers were a pair of Crown D-60's (35W/Ch), with one driving the K-Horns and one channel of the other driving the Belle. That system would play plenty loudly, even in his pretty good sized living room.
