BP102 Mounting Template?

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wespaul · #1 Post by **wespaul** » Sun Mar 09, 2008 9:29 am

Does anyone know where I can find a mounting template for the Eminence BP102? I have begun the build of my Titan 39, but I can't get the drivers for another week or two. Without the drivers, I can't go much further than cutting panels to size and attaching the top to the side. If I had a mounting template, however, I could get the whole thing built before the drivers arrived. TIA!

Tim A · #2 Post by **Tim A** » Sun Mar 09, 2008 10:19 am

You can get the mounting info from Eminences's website. It gives you the diameter and C-C hole locations.

But, don't. Be patient and wait. One small slip-up and you'll have an extremely difficult task ahead of you trying to correct it.

wespaul · #3 Post by **wespaul** » Sun Mar 09, 2008 10:31 am

I recognize the wisdom of your advice, and chafe at the delay. Maybe I'll just have to go ahead and get the drivers and overnight 'em. Thanks.

Tim A · #4 Post by **Tim A** » Sun Mar 09, 2008 12:37 pm

It definitely sucks when you want to make tracks. I've built a lot of thes cabs and insitst on having the driver on hand before I get too far. Once I goofed on a D200 by a tiny bit. It scared me enough to just wait.

One thing you may be able to do is cut and dry fit everything. Screw the parts together and make sure they fit properly. Once you get the drivers just finish the baffle and glue up the parts. Thatway you can keep moving.

Th interior diameter for a BP102 spacer is 9-1/8". You can cut the spacer and set it, get everything else done, and wait to put in the T-nuts.

wespaul · #5 Post by **wespaul** » Sun Mar 09, 2008 9:17 pm

Thanks, Tim. I made a little sawdust today - got the top made and set to the side. I may have a few days' wait until the PL cures. The unheated garage is going to be bouncing between about 25 and 50 deg F based on weather forecasts. I can cut some parts, though, like you said.

#6 Post by **Bill Fitzmaurice** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 8:03 am

wespaul wrote:The unheated garage is going to be bouncing between about 25 and 50 deg F based on weather forecasts.

Between the cold and the lack of humidity the PL won't cure properly, and won't expand properly either. Wait for warmer weather or move to a heated place.

SoundInMotionDJ · #7 Post by **SoundInMotionDJ** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 9:20 am

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:
wespaul wrote:The unheated garage is going to be bouncing between about 25 and 50 deg F based on weather forecasts.
Between the cold and the lack of humidity the PL won't cure properly, and won't expand properly either. Wait for warmer weather or move to a heated place.

My first build was done with the shop in the 90's during the day. The temp for the next run was 70 during the day. That 20-25deg difference made a 2x difference in PL cure time.

Warmer=better...

--Stan Graves

David Carter · #8 Post by **David Carter** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 9:46 am

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:
wespaul wrote:The unheated garage is going to be bouncing between about 25 and 50 deg F based on weather forecasts.
Between the cold and the lack of humidity the PL won't cure properly, and won't expand properly either. Wait for warmer weather or move to a heated place.

I've built all three of my cabs so far in the unheated garage during the winter. On the nights that were real cold, I got a small space heater and let it blow for several hours directly at the joint that was in the process of drying. I could tell a difference in the amount of PL expansion between the heated and unheated joints. The other thing I tried to do was do as much gluing as possible in the morning so it would be drying during the day when the temps were a little higher.

Having said all that, humidity plays a factor, too (more being better), and there is a noticeable difference in the humidity between TN and UT. I'm used to it now, but when we first moved here (from UT) 12 years ago, it was quite noticeable.

wespaul · #9 Post by **wespaul** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:02 am

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:
wespaul wrote:The unheated garage is going to be bouncing between about 25 and 50 deg F based on weather forecasts.
Between the cold and the lack of humidity the PL won't cure properly, and won't expand properly either. Wait for warmer weather or move to a heated place.

Wow! I didn't know it wouldn't do its job at those temperatures. I'll have to try not to destroy the side/top joint and move it inside.

That 20-25deg difference made a 2x difference in PL cure time.

I can see I have seriously underestimated the effect of cold weather on the adhesive. Freakin' cold weather!

wespaul · #10 Post by **wespaul** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:15 am

David Carter wrote:I've built all three of my cabs so far in the unheated garage during the winter. On the nights that were real cold, I got a small space heater and let it blow for several hours directly at the joint that was in the process of drying. I could tell a difference in the amount of PL expansion between the heated and unheated joints.

Now there's an idea. Will it help to apply heat now that the PL has been curing in the cold for some 16 hours? Humidity in UT right now is running around 35%. What if I got a spray bottle and misted the surface of the joint and the PL bead that has squeezed out?
Oh, and how do you like the country music state? Maybe that's not your kind of music, but that's what I play mostly (though I have started an alternative pop/indie thing lately).

Thanks -
Wes

David Carter · #11 Post by **David Carter** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:42 am

wespaul wrote:
David Carter wrote:I've built all three of my cabs so far in the unheated garage during the winter. On the nights that were real cold, I got a small space heater and let it blow for several hours directly at the joint that was in the process of drying. I could tell a difference in the amount of PL expansion between the heated and unheated joints.
Now there's an idea. Will it help to apply heat now that the PL has been curing in the cold for some 16 hours? Humidity in UT right now is running around 35%. What if I got a spray bottle and misted the surface of the joint and the PL bead that has squeezed out?

The ideal would be to mist the surfaces that will be in direct contact with the PL before gluing. I'm not sure what effect it would have after the fact.

wespaul wrote:Oh, and how do you like the country music state? Maybe that's not your kind of music, but that's what I play mostly (though I have started an alternative pop/indie thing lately).

Around here there's probably more bluegrass than anything, but neither one are really my thing. I'm more of a rock/pop guy who's stuck in the 80's. But I love East Tennessee. It's a great place to live (although I still miss my mountain with the "Y" on it down in Provo--hope to be back for a visit this summer).

Tim A · #12 Post by **Tim A** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:26 am

Misting the surfaces before applying the adhesive is a good idea when it's really dry. You could do it afterwards if the PL hasn't formed a skin yet.

Tech sheet for PL in the link. It says application temps are 20-100 deg F. Testing showed that it acheived 360lbs strength in 24 hours when gluing frozen Douglas Fir to frozen Douglas Fir, full strength after 8 days. It doesn't say anything about humidity requirments, just that curing will be faster or slower depending on humidity. Spritzing it will help. Some of the poly glues like Elmer's and PL's version of Gorrilla Glue both say to dampen the joints before applying the glue, and since PL will cure underwater it surely won't hurt anything.

So, I wouldn't panic about the joints you've glued up so far, but if you can take them in the house for curing you'll be further ahead.

http://stickwithpl.com/pdf/PL%20Premium ... 20Data.pdf

wespaul · #13 Post by **wespaul** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:19 pm

Tim, thanks for the advice and link. I hate to wiggle that joint around now that it is well into the curing process, so I may be stuck waiting for this to cure before moving it, but future joints will either be made outside and moved inside immediately, or made inside with much plastic sheeting down. That stuff has a way of getting everywhere. "Honey, I glued my project to the floor - sorry"

.

Dave, I grew up with bluegrass. Too bad it's not your thing if it's all over the place there. I hope you get to visit your Y mountain soon!

SoundInMotionDJ · Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:56 pm

wespaul wrote:
That 20-25deg difference made a 2x difference in PL cure time.
I can see I have seriously underestimated the effect of cold weather on the adhesive. Freakin' cold weather!

To be fair, the 2x difference made the difference between "two sessions per day" and "one session per day." In warmer weather, I was able to do some assembly in the morning, and after work. In colder weather, I was limited to one build session per day. IOW, "overnight" was still more than sufficient curing time for PL.

--Stan Graves

Mark Coward · #15 Post by **Mark Coward** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 1:15 pm

To my knowledge, only the HL10's were/are a different hole pattern to other Eminence 10's. The Beta 10's and 2510's are the same, I assume the 2010's are as well. I've used several different brands of 12", including Eminence 4012, and all of them fit the same hole pattern. It would be nice to have a full size image to print out for the purpose of laying the hole patterns, perhaps someone here proficient in CAD could produce this?