H-nut spun...repair options?

[SoundInMotionDJ]

I have and H-nut that spun in a location that is not accessible. The nut spun as I was tightening down a brace tonight. I was eventually able too extract the bolt...but it was not easy.

It is on the side of a DR200, "inside" the enclosed back. I'm debating doing some kind of gorilla glue "injection" to see if I can stabilize the nut...but I figured that I'd ask first.


Thanks,
--Stan Graves

[Tim A]

Stan, Stan, Stan....Always Gorrilla Glue those inaccessible T nuts when you install them!

Anyway, try drilling a small hole on each side of the bolt hole. Position it so it hits the flange but doesn't penetrate it, then smoodge some GG in there as best you can. It should only take a dot on each side.

The other option is to hole saw the entire thing out, create a patch for the hole and mount the new nut in the patch, then install the patch and refinish that part of the cab.

[SoundInMotionDJ]

Stan, Stan, Stan....Always Gorrilla Glue those inaccessible T nuts when you install them!

Anyway, try drilling a small hole on each side of the bolt hole. Position it so it hits the flange but doesn't penetrate it, then smoodge some GG in there as best you can. It should only take a dot on each side.

The other option is to hole saw the entire thing out, create a patch for the hole and mount the new nut in the patch, then install the patch and refinish that part of the cab.

There is G-glue all over this thing on the inside....I swear!

The pinhole approach was what I was thinking...so I'll start with that and progress to the holesaw if I need to. What a pain!!!

--Stan

[msprague]

For an extreme emegency repair on a Titan, I had to plug the old T-nut hole, and put two sturdy wood screws with a metal bracket that clamped down on the rim of the driver on each side of the old hole. Seems to still be working. For "sturdy wood screws" I mean a short 3/16" lag bolt with a proper drilled pilot hole.

[fender3x]

Since this is not on a driver... The simplest alternative might be to drill out the hole, pop in a 1/2" dowel, and then use a wood screw. A 1" dowel would give a wood screw a lot of "meat" to bite into. When I spun a couple of t-nuts on a T39 lid, I replaced them all this way. It's holding really well, with no leakage.

I spun a hurricane nut on a DR250 driver mount. I drilled it out, put in a 1/2" dowel, sanded down both sides, re-drilled, and replaced the hurricane nut. Worked like a charm. I was using the commercial dowels with the splines along the edges and that may have helped. In any case, it held in place really well--certainly better than the original. Of course, the h-nut was still accessible at the time I spun it...

If you really wanted to go nuts, you could put in a dowel that is larger than your t-nut--like 3/4". Drill the hole for your bolt in the dowel and mount the t-nut before you glue the dowel into place. You'd have to be really careful that you got the hole for the bolt in the right place, but I think that could work... And is the nutty sort of thing I might try...

So, that's three ideas from easy to nuts-o

[msprague]

If you really wanted to go nuts, you could put in a dowel that is larger than your t-nut--like 3/4". Drill the hole for your bolt in the dowel and mount the t-nut before you glue the dowel into place. You'd have to be really careful that you got the hole for the bolt in the right place, but I think that could work... And is the nutty sort of thing I might try...

That is an excellent idea! I will remember that for future repairs. Plus, if you use a hardwood dowel and really seat and glue in the t-nut, it could be stronger than original.

[Tim A]

The pinhole approach was what I was thinking...so I'll start with that and progress to the holesaw if I need to. What a pain!!!

--Stan

Stan, if that holds ok, make sure you run the thread 'gently' with a tap to clean them out and lessen the chance of spinning it again. You probably already thought of that, but just in case....

[SoundInMotionDJ]

Update...

The problem is that the hole I drilled for the H-nut split out just a little on the outside of the box. That was enough that the teeth did not have the full amount of wood to grab onto. The nut will not "push out" of the hole - it is at least that secure. There is also a glob of Duratex about halfway through the nut. That is what the bolt hit that made the H-nut spin...darn the convenience of that darned drill/driver...

So, I *carefully*, with a hand cranked drill that I didn't know why I kept until today... drilled three 1/16" holes around the H-nut - 12, 4, and 8 o'clock. I squeezed in enough G-glue to fill those holes, plus some more. There is good foam and squeeze out all around the barrel of the H-nut, and from all three holes. At this point, I'm going to give the G-glue "overnight" (technically, I'm probably going to give it "overweek") to cure.

Once the G-glue cures, I'll use a 1/8" bit to drill out the duratex (with the hand drill), and then it gets the tap...

I ran all the other H-nuts with a tap. The amount of Duratex and G-glue that came out was astounding. And this is *after* I passed a bolt through them!!!

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Update...

The problem is that the hole I drilled for the H-nut split out just a little on the outside of the box. That was enough that the teeth did not have the full amount of wood to grab onto. The nut will not "push out" of the hole - it is at least that secure. There is also a glob of Duratex about halfway through the nut. That is what the bolt hit that made the H-nut spin...darn the convenience of that darned drill/driver...
:

I always drive bolts by hand, a power driver will strip a nut before you realize that too much resistance is present.

[Dave Non-Zero]

i set the clutch on the cordless very light. then again, ive not yet spun a tnut to teach me the lesson.

[fender3x]

ive not yet spun a tnut to teach me the lesson.

I have spun a bunch. First, by accident. Then I began some experiments to see how much force would break them loose with gg (lots and just a drop) PL, epoxy and bare necked. Least force broke loose the naked ones (of course). Small amount of g-glue worked best. Just as hard to spin as with epoxy or lots of g-glue. Better than PL. Not too scientific these tests test...I didn't use a torque wrench...but enough to get a feel for how much it would take.

As a result... I use 1 drop of gg just like Tim says. I use a T or an L handle driver (advice from Leland). I hand tighten, three turns per bolt so that I tighten them down evenly (advice from Bill). I use just three fingers on the tool to tighten--that one I learned in my breakage tests. Any bolts that bind, even slightly, get re-tapped (advice from Leland). I keep bolts in the holes at all times (including when painting) so that foreign objects stay out (I think that came from a republican presidential candidate).

I have learned to always remember that they are truly female. You have to treat them carefully and with respect--or oh, how you will pay!

I have also learned not to use them unless I need them. Wood screws spin easier, but are easy to fix.

[SoundInMotionDJ]

Update.

The repair worked! I ran the H-nut with a tap over the weekend, and all is well.

--Stan Graves

[Tim A]

Jeez, are you sure the glue was cured?

[SoundInMotionDJ]

Jeez, are you sure the glue was cured?

I said I was probably going for the "overweek" cure period....