Cutting out midrange horn sides on the O-15.

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vlad335 · #1 Post by **vlad335** » Sun Nov 04, 2007 11:32 am

Looking over my O-15TB plans I come to this...

I am no woodworker but how in the hell do you cut out these pieces with the angles? I can run the 28 degree angles through the table saw but the 7 degree sides? Certainly a circular saw would be used but the pieces are so small that I don't think I can clamp an edge guide on top to make the cut straight.

It's probably pretty obvious to all you guys but I am racking my brain trying to figure this out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tim A · #2 Post by **Tim A** » Sun Nov 04, 2007 11:50 am

Use screws to attach them to the guide board, not clamps. Just patch the screw holes afterwards.

Or, set up your table saw miter for the correct angle and run them through.

Or, go get a taper jig for a table saw and use it. They're les than $20. Hint, they work great for cutting braces in the subs

Or, cut a scrap piece at the correct angle so the pieces sets against the table saw's rip fence at the correct angle and run it through.

LelandCrooks · #3 Post by **LelandCrooks** » Sun Nov 04, 2007 12:09 pm

You guys with xacta fences are really pissing me off.

I get out the square, measure twice on my fence before a cut.

DaveK · #4 Post by **DaveK** » Mon Nov 05, 2007 12:38 am

Here's my quick-n-dirty solution. It's a small sled for small pieces. Just set the blade angle, line up the cut line on the piece, and slide the sled through. It's quick, but don't let the piece slip or it goes on the scrap pile and you have make a new one. Also, keep your fingers away from the blade side of the sled!

vlad335 · #5 Post by **vlad335** » Mon Nov 05, 2007 1:33 pm

Thanks for the excellent responses. Great ideas here.

I decided to give it a go yesterday morning. A buddy of mine helped and we cut out the pieces with the table saw and circular saw using a clamped guide for the sides. Took a few trys but we finally got the dimensions right and to my horror... found out the 28 degree and 15 degree angles are supposed to face the SAME DIRECTION.

ARGGHHHH! I'm Stupid Stupid STUPID!

The way I read the plans it seemed as all the angles would fold under. Plans are not real clear here but I should have looked at the Sketchup anyway. Two hours gone to make some scrap... Oh well.

Busted out the shell and baffle in about an hour last night. Man, I love this table saw. Wife wanted to watch DVD's so couldn't get much done.

spiderbass · #6 Post by **spiderbass** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 3:47 am

I nearly finish the O15-TB and make somes photos during progress for a small tutorial. The plan are great but for the midrange horn, i check 4 times to be sure that i don't make errors. Sketchup is great to check...

For use with circular saw, i think the best method is to cut the part direclty in a big part of wood, it's more easy.

Somes pictures during process of this horn

For the midrange horn, i think it's not very hard... if you have good apparatus, or a good friend

In progress

vlad335 · #7 Post by **vlad335** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 4:35 am

Nice!

Thanks for the post.

AntonZ · #8 Post by **AntonZ** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 1:16 pm

Looks like a great shop to me, I wish I had the space and the tools you have there.

Tim A · #9 Post by **Tim A** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 2:52 pm

Three words, or a picture, which is worth 1,000 of them::

Look around. I got mine for $75 off craigslist. Makes life easy.

Les Webb · #10 Post by **Les Webb** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 3:02 pm

Tim Ard wrote:Three words, or a picture, which is worth 1,000 of them::

Look around. I got mine for $75 off craigslist. Makes life easy.

Life without fingers is easy I guess

Just kidding Tim, that looks like a great deal on a saw, but those types of saws are notorious for cutting off appendages. Be careful.

Les

Tim A · #11 Post by **Tim A** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 3:07 pm

Les Webb wrote: Life without fingers is easy I guess

Just kidding Tim, that looks like a great deal on a saw, but those types of saws are notorious for cutting off appendages. Be careful.

Les

No worse than any other saw. Keep hands and fingers clear, clamp small parts.

I can certainly see someone who's never used a RAS before getting into trouble due to the way the saw wants to run out across the cut. But once you get used to it they're top notch. I haven't done any crosscuts on my table saw in months.

BTW the one in the picture is newer than mine. Mine doesn't have the guard.....

Les Webb · #12 Post by **Les Webb** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 3:44 pm

Tim Ard wrote: I can certainly see someone who's never used a RAS before getting into trouble due to the way the saw wants to run out across the cut.

If at all possible you should extend the saw first, slide the wood in and cut with a push instead of a pull, but I'm sure you know that already. I've used them without problems, but an inexperienced woodworker needs to be very careful. IME the greatest loss of fingers comes from a RAS and a tablesaw operated incorrectly or haphazardly.

Les

Wed Nov 07, 2007 4:07 pm

Les Webb wrote:
If at all possible you should extend the saw first, slide the wood in and cut with a push instead of a pull,

Les

Always do so; if it's not possible don't even think about making a cut. It won't kick back like running a piece across a table saw from the wrong end, but the results can be just as disastrous.

vlad335 · #14 Post by **vlad335** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 4:57 am

I did it! Thanks guys.

I used Spiderbass' method using a newly aquired used bandsaw and it worked wonderfully. I did two of the angles on the tablesaw and kinda freehanded the slanted sides and it was a piece of cake.

Tim, I ordered the Taper jig on Monday via google from a company named Garrettwade. BTW... They suck. I got a confirmation that it just shipped on Friday! Should get it next week but I think I'll avoid them in the future.

Funny you should mention a RAS Tim. Yesterday afternoon my drummer took me up to his Dad's garage and provided me with one as well as the bandsaw. Both Craftsman with homemade hardcore stands. ( His father passed away last March.)

He wanted to give me all kind of stuff but the only thing else I was interested in was clamps. ( Didn't have any...) Seems I'm some kind of woodworking genius now.

Long story short hes had a 100% turn around since he heard Bill's designs.

I have turned the RAS on and that is it. Man, this is one impressive piece of machinery. (Big sucker. The scale on the side goes to 26".) However, I'm not doing a thing with it till I get it cleaned up, adjusted, and know what the hell I am doing.

Also, when looking for the manual I came across this interesting site.

http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com

Seems this saw qualifies by the serial number and I signed up. From what I gather, they are going to send me a blade guard and a new table for this thing for free! Might want to check it out since you have a Craftsman too.

Oh well... This cab was stuck in limbo till I could get the horn done. Wont be long to finish when I get some days off.

Can't wait to hear it.

Tim A · #15 Post by **Tim A** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 7:07 am

vlad335 wrote: Also, when looking for the manual I came across this interesting site.

http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com

Seems this saw qualifies by the serial number and I signed up. From what I gather, they are going to send me a blade guard and a new table for this thing for free! Might want to check it out since you have a Craftsman too.

I found that the same way you did. Unfortunately, mine is too old, all they want to do is give me $100 for the motor yoke so I can't use it. Nah.

The cool thing about old tools is the build quality. My saw is 100% cast iron, the only aluminum is the scale. It's probably 10 years older than the one pictured.