new DR250

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fender3x
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new DR250

#1 Post by fender3x »

Took me a while, but I think this came out OK. This is the 3rd cab I have ever built, hardest project by far...but worth it.

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It joins an O10 and a T39 (my first and second builds). I don't know if I had the skills to start with DR250, but man if I had, I might never have built the T39. I might have built a 2nd DR250 instead. Don't get me wrong, the T39 is great too...but I am just astounded at how good this cab is on its own. I can't imagine any gig that two of them couldn't handle...but that's probably also true of the DR250+T39 combo.

So far, I've tried it with a mid 70's Fender Precision, and with a G&L ASAT bass. The P bass sounds just like it should. But the ASAT is even more of a tone monster with this cab. Man, you really hear the differences in settings and definition in the tone.

Not up to the highest (the BFM/Crooks/Ard/Gavin/Perry/Harley...should I go on?) standards of construction or aesthetics. But it's sound and doesn't rattle, and that seems pretty good for a guy who'd never even picked up a circular saw or soldering iron before his first BFMD cab.

Thanks for all the help, guys. And Bill, thanks for a great design, and manifold patience!

Oh! If forgot to mention. The whole thing with 2510 driver, crossover and eveything, weighs in at 44 lbs! This is just the standard build...not the 3/8" light build. My back would like to thank Mr. FM for that as well!

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David Carter
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#2 Post by David Carter »

Very nice! I'm about to get started on a pair of these. My only previous cab build has been one Omni 10, so I may be looking for advice as I go.
Dave

Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)

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LelandCrooks
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#3 Post by LelandCrooks »

Looks pretty damn good to me. 8)

Harley and I finished retrofitting a DR with the melded array, phase plug, throat filler, and xover about an hour ago. Only took about 3 tries to get it all right.

It is definitely a better cab than the original. Mids are cleaner, highs are smoother. Extended listening review vs original design next week.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com

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Tim A
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#4 Post by Tim A »

Nice, very very nice. You're getting pretty good at this!

bgavin
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#5 Post by bgavin »

LelandCrooks wrote:Looks pretty damn good to me.
+1 to that.

Very clean, very tasty. Like the rear handles a lot.
My biggest worry is that when I'm dead and gone, my wife will sell my toys for what I said I paid for them.

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MYork
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Looks better than mine!

#6 Post by MYork »

That looks great! I like the switch/speakon panel on the back. Did you cut the segment out of the back, drill three holes, place another piece of plywood on the back, then reinstall it, after putting in a "lip" frame? MY

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DAVID_L_PERRY
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Re: new DR250

#7 Post by DAVID_L_PERRY »

fender3x wrote: ....Not up to the highest (the BFM/Crooks/Ard/Gavin/Perry/Harley...should I go on?) standards of construction or aesthetics. ....
Think again !!
Thats a great looking build, add youself to that list, very neat switch arrangement, love the handles....and after the DR, don't you just know that building pretty much any other speaker would be a piece of cake... :D

Dave

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fender3x
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Re: Looks better than mine!

#8 Post by fender3x »

Thanks, guys! I'm overwhelmed. David's right. After this, any other project is a whole lot less intimidating ;-) It took me a very long time, but listening to it--it's really worth it.
MYork wrote:That looks great! I like the switch/speakon panel on the back. Did you cut the segment out of the back, drill three holes, place another piece of plywood on the back, then reinstall it, after putting in a "lip" frame? MY
Yes, that's basically what I did. For the speakon I glued one piece of 1/2" and then drilled down with a forstner bit so that the jack would be flush with the back. I didn't want the switches to stick out, so I laminated two pieces of 1/2" for them, drilled through with the forstner bit, and then glued a piece of 1/8" to the back for the switches to mount through.

Definitely would have been easier to just buy a jack plate from PE, but I couldn't think of a way to get the switches far enough recessed with a normal jack plate.

I haven't tried alternative handle placement, but so far I am liking where these are placed.

So far, this just seems like a great bass cab, and I am really looking forward to taking out to play.

Thanks again for the props and for all the help along the way!

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David Carter
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Re: Looks better than mine!

#9 Post by David Carter »

fender3x wrote:
MYork wrote:That looks great! I like the switch/speakon panel on the back. Did you cut the segment out of the back, drill three holes, place another piece of plywood on the back, then reinstall it, after putting in a "lip" frame? MY
Yes, that's basically what I did. For the speakon I glued one piece of 1/2" and then drilled down with a forstner bit so that the jack would be flush with the back. I didn't want the switches to stick out, so I laminated two pieces of 1/2" for them, drilled through with the forstner bit, and then glued a piece of 1/8" to the back for the switches to mount through.

Definitely would have been easier to just buy a jack plate from PE, but I couldn't think of a way to get the switches far enough recessed with a normal jack plate.
I'm thinking of doing something similar for my DR250's. I used a P.E. jack plate for my O10, but, like you, I don't want the switches sticking out this time, and I was afraid I'd ruin a perfectly good jack plate if I started cutting holes in it for switches. :)
Dave

Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)

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vlad335
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#10 Post by vlad335 »

Awesome build and very innovative approach. I would love to hear that cab with my rig!
Currently running:
Four Titan 48's, Six Omnitop 12's, Two Wedgehorn 10's, Omni12 2-10

Also Built: Omni15 Tallboy, Omni10.5.

'The hardest material on earth is the human skull'. How do we know this? Try pounding a new idea into one.

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N.Webber
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#11 Post by N.Webber »

I'm thinking of doing something similar for my DR250's. I used a P.E. jack plate for my O10, but, like you, I don't want the switches sticking out this time, and I was afraid I'd ruin a perfectly good jack plate if I started cutting holes in it for switches.
David,
This is the jack plate I prepared for the 10.5 I built.
I used a short stem mini toggle that didn't stick out over the height of the dish.
Image

fender3x,
As others have mentioned you did a great job, especially as a first timer.

Only thing I would change are the eight non-black screws holding the Jack plate... :wink:

:)
Authorized Builder
- 6 DR290
- Omni10.5
- AT, TAT
- Tuba 48
- 2 WH10
- Truck Tuba
http://www.boniton.co.il
http://www.bt-12.com Balanced Tilting Sounds Better...

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Tim A
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#12 Post by Tim A »

So tell us, Vlad. Has your band heard the system yet? Have the naysayers recanted? I never heard the final outcome, if you posted it somewhere I didn't see it.

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David Carter
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#13 Post by David Carter »

N.Webber wrote:This is the jack plate I prepared for the 10.5 I built.
I used a short stem mini toggle that didn't stick out over the height of the dish.
Nice job on the jack plate! What did you use to label the switch?
Dave

Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)

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vlad335
Posts: 471
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Location: Latrobe, PA

#14 Post by vlad335 »

Tim Ard wrote:So tell us, Vlad. Has your band heard the system yet? Have the naysayers recanted? I never heard the final outcome, if you posted it somewhere I didn't see it.
Hey Tim! I posted an update on the soap opera in the "Everything Else" section.
Currently running:
Four Titan 48's, Six Omnitop 12's, Two Wedgehorn 10's, Omni12 2-10

Also Built: Omni15 Tallboy, Omni10.5.

'The hardest material on earth is the human skull'. How do we know this? Try pounding a new idea into one.

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N.Webber
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#15 Post by N.Webber »

What did you use to label the switch?
Brother's P-Touch.

:)
Authorized Builder
- 6 DR290
- Omni10.5
- AT, TAT
- Tuba 48
- 2 WH10
- Truck Tuba
http://www.boniton.co.il
http://www.bt-12.com Balanced Tilting Sounds Better...

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