Cutting compound angles on a table saw
Cutting compound angles on a table saw
Does anyone have tips for accurately and safely cutting compound angles on a table saw? I'd like to find a better way to cut angled top and bottom horn planes such as those in the OT12, WH, etc. I've been doing it by tilting the blade to the desired angle and then pushing the work through using the miter tool, but I'm having problems with it slipping sideways.
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Panel jig and bevel square. Use the bevel square to transfer the angle to the face of the jig. Screw down a guide board on the line at the desired distance. Cut away.
I don't even use the square. Mark the board full length. Line up on the kerf, then screw or clamp your stop board to the jig butted up against the to be cut piece. You need a pretty big panel jig.
I don't even use the square. Mark the board full length. Line up on the kerf, then screw or clamp your stop board to the jig butted up against the to be cut piece. You need a pretty big panel jig.
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- Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Cutting compound angles on a table saw
Panel jig. A miter slide might have six inches of contact with the rear of the sheet. A panel jig has as much contact as the width you make the jig, often more than the width of the panel you're cutting. To cut compound angles screw the workpiece to the jig, fill the holes with adhesive when you install it. .DaveK wrote: and then pushing the work through using the miter tool, but I'm having problems with it slipping sideways.
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Re: Cutting compound angles on a table saw
Great advice. It took me a while to get over drilling "unnecessary" holes in my pieces. The Anal Purist in me wanted only those holes required.Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:To cut compound angles screw the workpiece to the jig, fill the holes with adhesive when you install it.
Dead end.
Drill the holes, make your life easier, fill the holes with PL or Bondo. This is only a problem on finish surfaces. Nobody here uses the Birch finish as the end result, so the filled holes are a non-issue.
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Re: Cutting compound angles on a table saw
I hardly ever use clamps any more to fix sleds or guideboards to either panels or cabinets for sawing or routing. Screws are faster and easier, and since I end up filling and sanding the cab exterior anyway a few more holes don't add any time to the job, whereas fumbling with clamps adds both time and a few 'oh shits' to the job.bgavin wrote:
Drill the holes, make your life easier, fill the holes with PL or Bondo. This is only a problem on finish surfaces. Nobody here uses the Birch finish as the end result, so the filled holes are a non-issue.
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You can make a dedicated jig for 0 degree cuts, and one for up to 45 degree, or use the 45 degree for everything.DaveK wrote:Do you use the same panel cutter for all different blade angles or have a separate one for each? The way my saw blade tilts moves it to the left somewhat. After cutting 0, 18, 22, and 38 degree bevels I would have a kerf in the panel cutter about an inch wide