Mock dr250

[billynoband]

I found some old shelves made out of 7 ply birch so I managed to finish my dr. Its made out of scrap just for practice before I make four with expensive ply so I can make my first mistakes cheaply. I did buy two small sheets of 3mm hardboard to practice the butt crack and horn sides etc and this worked fine. I then covered these parts with fibreglass tape and leftover pva glue to reinforce.
Loaded with a old beta 10 it sounds big. A bit like a very good 12" speaker, loud and clear. There is plenty of volume and no vibration. Its made without piezos for bass guitar. Even though though its a mock up I am going to paint it matt black and use it for bass because it doesnt matter if it gets nocked about.
I think it sounds slightly clearer than the Tuba 24 I had the same speaker in. Reccomended, and not really that hard to build.
I used a Handsaw. I got around the 3 degree cut problems by cutting out the sides then drawing the 3 degree shape of the top and bottom on a old peice of chipboard and layed it flat. I levelled this then fixed the top and bottom upright to this with screws, squared them up, fixed a piece of wood to the top to brace it. So with it all jigged up I was free to cut normally and fit everything inside with the expanding glue filling up the angles I missed out on cutting. I released it from its jig when the horn and speaker baffle was complete. I must admit its looks very straight and square, apart from the 3 degree angle of course.
Think what you like I am on a budget.

[DAVID_L_PERRY]

Well done !
Sounds like you have had some good success with your first DR build and had goo dlearing experience to iron out the construction bugs, and managed to do it on a cheap budget as well...which is what this intire process is about in the long run.

Once you can get together some funds I would suggest trying to source some power tools. You can get some very cheap jigsaws and circular saws from the likes of Screw fix, B&Q and even Aldi/Neto. These will save you masses of construction time in the long run. Dont be concerned about getting cheap tools to start with, they will work well enough to make a massive difference...Its nice to have expensive tools, but if you cant afford them I would rather have a cheap one than none at all, you simply have to be realistic in what you can afford.

I still have some very cheap drills and a very cheap router that have done stearling service for me over the years....

The Tuba 24 is a sub, not a full range cab, so you would not be getting a full range sound out of it at all....you could use the Tuba 24 and the DR250 together for a killer bass rig.....

Dave

[Strapping Young Stu]

Just dont buy a table saw with a guide that isnt straight like I did.

B&Q Macallister! BAD thing, anyway I fixed it but be careful of stuff like that.

Stu

[bgavin]

I have a Sears cast iron table saw from the early '70's, and always check the parallel of the fence before every cut. I do this by measuring fence to channel distance at the saw tooth point (middle), then making sure it is the same at both front and rear ends of the fence.

If I adjust the fence for parallel at the 20" distance, it is incorrect in close, and vice-versa. It's just life with a table saw. This extra step saves a lot of crying after the piece is cut.

[JazzyRick]

You can always spring for one of these:

http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/incrats3.htm

[fender3x]

That is a cool thing, but you could get 6 BP102s for the discount price of one of those puppies.

Everything I use has to fit into an 5x4 closet...and so even if I was not so cheap to begin with I just don't have room for a full sized table saw. Instead, I have a Delta bench saw (the smallest and cheapest of their line...usually go for around $100 at box stores. I got mine used for $25. I have to check the "roll" and "yaw" regularly, but it cuts well using the BFD sled. I'd love to have a better saw. My point is that you can get good cuts from a cheap saw, if you have a good sled. Once you get your saw, cheap or expensive, the first thing I'd build is a sled.

The sled also serves as a good flat surface for doing the glue up on DR horn braces for those of us who don't have room for a work bench.

[Harley]

I have a ....cast iron table saw from the early '70's, and always check the parallel of the fence before every cut. .

+1

I even check the perpendicular of the blade with a square after I've done the angle cuts. Sometimes crap can get on the end of the stops and before you know it you're chomping out 3 degree bevels.

Harley