Modern driver options for Table Tuba build?

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Hi!

I purchased the Table Tuba plans some years ago. The plans are from back in the days, and the suggested drivers seem to be obsolete.

Do anyone know of modern drivers that fit the following criteria:

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"Preferred T/S specs for the eight inch driver are fs 28 to 40Hz, Qts .30 to .50, Vas 15 to 45L, xmax 8mm or more. The least expensive recommended driver is the MCM 55-2421 (mcmelectronics.com). Other suitable drivers include the Dayton (Parts-Express.com) DCS 205-4, the Tang Band W8-740 and the JBL GTO 804. You may also use a ten-inch driver with similar specs, so long as it is less than 6 inches deep. One suitable ten is the Dayton DCS 255-4. "
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Thank you in advance!

Best regards

John

[AntonZ]

Don't know about the others, but the Dayton Audio drivers are still available. Parts-Express have both the recommended 8" as well as the 10".

[Seth]

I don't have a Table Tuba, but I'll vouch for the performance of the MCM 55-2421 which I've used in two builds. Any gains in output other drivers offer may be measured but would likely be unnoticed by the naked ear and unused the vast majority of the time. That said, I know what it's like wanting a project to be the best it can be. I can't find my notes on the subject at the moment, but I recall there being a Dayton driver that had similar specs to that of the MCM, but had massive Xmax. Something like 22mm. Not sure that's the exact number, but it was questionably large. If I can figure out which driver that was, I'll post it up.

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Thank you!

I got a tip online about the https://loudspeakerdatabase.com/

Nice tool!

There was another driver that looks like it would fit the criteria:
https://loudspeakerdatabase.com/Focal/SUB_P25FE, its about twice the price, but 14mm xmax instead of 8,3mm on the Dayton driver.
Is a larger xmax desirable?

[Join]

I don't have a Table Tuba, but I'll vouch for the performance of the MCM 55-2421 which I've used in two builds. Any gains in output other drivers offer may be measured but would likely be unnoticed by the naked ear and unused the vast majority of the time. That said, I know what it's like wanting a project to be the best it can be. I can't find my notes on the subject at the moment, but I recall there being a Dayton driver that had similar specs to that of the MCM, but had massive Xmax. Something like 22mm. Not sure that's the exact number, but it was questionably large. If I can figure out which driver that was, I'll post it up.

Thanks!

I would be interested to see the spec!

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

https://loudspeakerdatabase.com/Focal/SUB_P25FE, its about twice the price, but 14mm xmax instead of 8,3mm on the Dayton driver.
Is a larger xmax desirable?

It is, but unless you plan on using yours for a stadium concert you'll never make use of it. The Dayton LS10-44 is as much driver as anyone needs.

[Join]

https://loudspeakerdatabase.com/Focal/SUB_P25FE, its about twice the price, but 14mm xmax instead of 8,3mm on the Dayton driver.
Is a larger xmax desirable?

It is, but unless you plan on using yours for a stadium concert you'll never make use of it. The Dayton LS10-44 is as much driver as anyone needs.

Thank you for your reply.

I found another driver here. I think spec is correct for the plans:
Seas H1288-08 CA22RNX: https://www.seas.no/index.php?option=co ... Itemid=461

It doesn't say Xmax, it says linear voice coil travel @12mm and max coil travel @26mm. IDK how Xmax is defined.

It looks like it need less power to do the work, and it is priced as the Dayton driver price point.

My plan to use the Table Tuba for creating earthquakes in my home cinema setup, but hope it can do the job in my Lowther Fidelio setup as well.

Is there a way to calculate the amplifier RMS power requirement for the specific driver in the Table Tuba?

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I don't know why you're saying it requires less power. In any event the LS10-44 will reach at least 125dB with a 200w amp.

[Rich4349]

My first build was the Auto-tuba with the MCM 55-2421, which was a mere $35 at the time, now $75. I chose that driver on purpose as the advertised "cheap ass driver" that produces amazing bass - and it does. Question: I see its QTS is way at the low end of the range, .219, while several of the others are up in the mid 40s. What effect does the lower QTS value have on driver behavior / end sound result? I know we're always hitting you up for these things, Bill. I ought to start a notebook.

[AntonZ]

My plan to use the Table Tuba for creating earthquakes in my home cinema setup, but hope it can do the job in my Lowther Fidelio setup as well.

John, will you hear us when we say the seemingly modest drivers are likely to give you more earthquake than you have wished for. Just a tad more might theoretically be achievable with a driver 3x the price or more. It may require modifications to the design because the hefty drivers tend to be taller than the 6"-ish deep room there is in the driver chamber.

If you absolutely must, consider making the cab just 1/2" taller/deeper, make a larger cutout and have a replaceable baffle plate so you can swap different drivers, even swap between 8" and a shallow 10" if you feel so inclined. My guess is you will happily enjoy plenty of earth quake sensations with the standard driver options.


(btw: that's an educated guess - I own two horn loaded subs with the silly cheap Tang Band 8" and have never wished for more output)

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

My first build was the Auto-tuba with the MCM 55-2421, which was a mere $35 at the time, now $75.

Huh?
https://www.newark.com/multicomp-pro/55 ... dp/88C7835

[Rich4349]

Whoops. Since I wasn't looking for a source from which to actually BUY one, I did the most cursory of searches. First one I saw was on Amazon, not the best source for the best price on electronics.

www.amazon.com/WOOFER-HIGH-EXCURSION-12 ... B00DKF48CI

[Bruce Weldy]

Whoops. Since I wasn't looking for a source from which to actually BUY one, I did the most cursory of searches. First one I saw was on Amazon, not the best source for the best price on electronics.

www.amazon.com/WOOFER-HIGH-EXCURSION-12 ... B00DKF48CI

I think that's a screwed-up listing. Look a little closer.....it says $37.77 per item....that means 2 would be $75.54. That makes the pricing just like the one Bill referenced. However, since it doesn't say there's two in the package - I'd stay away from it...

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Thank you guys! All your replies are very much appreciated.

I got this amp: https://www.ebay.com/itm/176034779249 ad is not mine.

It is 2x100wrms @8ohm, or 2x150wrms @4ohm and bridgeable at 300wrms @8 ohm.

Is it a valid point to choose a 8 ohm driver and bridge it?

Thanks.

[Join]

My plan to use the Table Tuba for creating earthquakes in my home cinema setup, but hope it can do the job in my Lowther Fidelio setup as well.

John, will you hear us when we say the seemingly modest drivers are likely to give you more earthquake than you have wished for. Just a tad more might theoretically be achievable with a driver 3x the price or more. It may require modifications to the design because the hefty drivers tend to be taller than the 6"-ish deep room there is in the driver chamber.

If you absolutely must, consider making the cab just 1/2" taller/deeper, make a larger cutout and have a replaceable baffle plate so you can swap different drivers, even swap between 8" and a shallow 10" if you feel so inclined. My guess is you will happily enjoy plenty of earth quake sensations with the standard driver options.


(btw: that's an educated guess - I own two horn loaded subs with the silly cheap Tang Band 8" and have never wished for more output)

I hear you guys. No need to spend more than necessary when results are the same or similar.