BillFitzmaurice.info

S12 Build Day One
1. Materials
1 off 12mm ply sheet 6 ft by 2 ft
2. Tools
Saw horses (pair)
Cutting frame
Circular saw
Clamps
Square
Pencil
3. Objectives
Cut main cabinet panels oversize by ¼” to ½” to allow for trimming
4. Method
Ruled dimensions on board.
Cut long strips first – to be used to make jigs.
Cut back, baffle, top, bottom ½” oversize:
To allow for errors because circular saw isn’t precise (blade housing has play even when locked tight).
To be trimmed to final size when smaller & easier to handle / clamp.
5. Results
All main panels cut oversize
Several 2” wide strips will be used for jigs / bracing
Approximately 4ft x 2ft left from 6ft x 2ft sheet left over – plenty for remaining pieces needed.
6. Lessons learned
Circular saw isn’t precise
Saw sled creates slightly off-set (0.5 mm) cuts even though it was made with the same saw.
7. Next
Cut panels to finished size with circular saw.
Trim saw cuts with flush-trim bit using saw sled as a fence.
Finish paired panels with router using one panel as template for flush-trim router bit.
Cut remaining pieces – braces, ports, jack panel
Make right-angle jigs
Photos:

Got my popcorn

S12 Build - Day Two
1. Materials
Parts from day one: top, bottom, two sides, back, baffle.
PU Glue
2. Tools
Saw horses (pair)
Cutting frame
Circular saw
Hand plane
Brad nailer – 18g 25mm brads
Clamps
Square, pencil, knife etc.
3. Objectives
Cut main cabinet panels to size
Refine edges.
4. Method
Cut parts to size with saw.
Planed edges with a hand plane (easier, quicker & quieter with hand plane than the router).
Baffle cut to nominal size. Needs trimming to a slack fit to allow for glue up.
5. Results
Cabinet glued & pinned
6. Lessons learned
PU glue is fierce. Cures quickly. Oozes all over the place from the nozzle (Bill tells you this).
Read plans carefully – don’t glue panels incorrectly, like I did (top and bottom must overlap the sides), so that you have to undo your work before the glue cures & re-do it.
Brad nailer is essential.
7. Next
Shape & fit baffle to allow for glue.
Cut back to size, make & fit braces etc.
Cut port pieces (shape edges with 45º chamfer bit),
Order parts: La Voce driver, recessed jack plate, 2 off Neutrik Speakon 4-pole sockets
Speaker grille
Feet
Strap handle
Cab paint

I hope you didn't glue the baffle in before cutting the driver hole, and the port holes if you're going to port, which you must with a low Qts driver.

Thanks Bill.


No glue on the baffle yet - just a friction fit, to help support the cab geometry while the glue cures.
Need to cut the driver hole, port corners & trim to give relief to allow for glue without scraping too much off.

How did you make sure the ooze out from curing glue did not permanently glue your baffle in place while it supports the cab geometry? I'm starting a S10 soon and intend to cut the port corners first for this reason.

AntonZ wrote: ↑Mon Feb 12, 2024 4:56 pm How did you make sure the ooze out from curing glue did not permanently glue your baffle in place while it supports the cab geometry? I'm starting a S10 soon and intend to cut the port corners first for this reason.

Or, just use these......I've got 4 of 'em that I made from scrap and have been using for almost 15 years. Corners are square every time....

AntonZ wrote: ↑Mon Feb 12, 2024 4:56 pm How did you make sure the ooze out from curing glue did not permanently glue your baffle in place while it supports the cab geometry? I'm starting a S10 soon and intend to cut the port corners first for this reason.

I removed the alignment strips that were tack-nailed to the edges of the top & bottom of the cab, before the glue had cured enough to stick them on (less than 3 minutes), then scraped away any internal ooze-out & tapped in the baffle.
HTH

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Mon Feb 12, 2024 7:07 pm

AntonZ wrote: ↑Mon Feb 12, 2024 4:56 pm How did you make sure the ooze out from curing glue did not permanently glue your baffle in place while it supports the cab geometry? I'm starting a S10 soon and intend to cut the port corners first for this reason.

Or, just use these......I've got 4 of 'em that I made from scrap and have been using for almost 15 years. Corners are square every time....

052410 Subs3.JPG

DSCF1745.JPG

That's a great idea - more clamps ordered (one can never have too many clamps )

Progress update after days 3,4& 5 (not complete days. Few hours here & there.) Been busy with life - rehearsals, organising gear etc.
S12 Build
Days 3,4 & 5 (Condensed progress report)
1. Materials
Parts from previous days.
PU Glue
2. Tools
Saw horses (pair)
Cutting frame
Circular saw
Hand plane
Hand drill /bits
Router / bits
Brad nailer – 18g 25mm brads
Clamps
Square, pencil, knife etc.
3. Objectives
• Cut back to size, make & fit braces etc.
• Cut port pieces (shape edges with 45º chamfer bit),
• Order parts:
◦ La Voce driver
◦ recessed jack plate
◦ 2 off Neutrik Speakon 4-pole sockets
◦ Speaker grille
◦ Feet
◦ Strap handle
◦ Cab paint
4. Method
• Cut back, port pieces & braces to size with saw. Routed 45º chamfer on port pieces.
• Planed square edges with a hand plane (easier, quicker & quieter with hand plane than the router).
• Cut baffle to nominal size: trimmed & planed to a slack fit to allow for glue-up.
Obtained parts: driver, jack plate (Blue Aran, UK) handle & feet, Speakon connectors (Penn Elcom, UK). Bolts / nuts (M5, M6) for feet; machine screws / nuts for Speakon connectors (M3) obtained locally.
• Routed baffle aperture:
◦ Drilled a 6mm hole (in the 6mm thick temporary router “table” at the radius distance from the appropriate edge of a 6mm straight router bit.
◦ Drilled a 6mm hole in the centre of the baffle aperture
◦ Fastened baffle to a piece of scrap backing 12mm ply using double sided tape: making sure centre waste portion & baffle will remain glued to the backing piece when cut.
◦ Drilled attached backing through baffle centre hole with same 6mm bit.
◦ Removed bit & inserted it in the hole in the router table.
◦ Adjuster router plunge/depth to give enough travel to cut through baffle, but not the backing.
◦ Placed baffle / backing sandwich on drill-bit pivot & cut the baffle aperture.
• Glued / pinned all parts (baffle / port pieces / braces) in place. Used brad nailer with spacing scrap to facilitate easy(ish) removal of nails near radius corner edges.
• Removed nails after 24 hours
• Sanded cabinet & rounded corners
• Installed & wired driver, jack plate, feet, handle
• Tested cab. per instructions – no leaks. Been too busy to run it with 30Hz tone.
Needed to sort amplifier(s).
• Ordered grille (www.speakergrills.co.uk ) and cover (https://www.hotcovers.co.uk/) Tuff Cab speaker paint (Blue Aran, UK)
5. Results
• Cabinet functionally complete
• Took it to band rehearsal – excellent – clearer, louder for same input with more extension than existing commercial sealed 1x12 (as expected / anticipated.
6. Lessons learned
• Use off-cut from routing speaker aperture as a protector when fastening speaker.
• Clamp port pieces firmly to prevent any movement when nailing.
7. Next
• Remove driver, handle, jack plate, feet.
• Paint baffle & port interiors matte black spray paint (Amazon)
• Paint cabinet with TuffCab paint & rollers
• Allow to dry & refit parts
• Print & fit BF logo on baffle (so it is protected)
• Obtain / make stand-off mounts for baffle
• Mount / fit baffle
Pics:
Baffle routed Jack plate in back
Baffle, internals/braces (not in order of construction)
Showing as much of wadding as possible
Cabinet front

Forgot to add - glued T-nuts into driver-mounting blocks

Works very well with other sealed cabinet

Nice progress.

I have that 12" GK extension cabinet as well.
I predict you will notice a considrable difference between the two..

tallevan wrote: ↑Thu Mar 14, 2024 3:37 am I have that 12" GK extension cabinet as well.
I predict you will notice a considrable difference between the two..

Thanks. Yes. Definitely very different beasts, but they do work well together

Paint & rollers have arrived today - waiting for grille & matte black spray for baffle & ports