Simplexx 1x12 Build - Woofer only
Simplexx 1x12 Build - Woofer only
S12 Build Day One
1. Materials
1 off 12mm ply sheet 6 ft by 2 ft
2. Tools
Saw horses (pair)
Cutting frame
Circular saw
Clamps
Square
Pencil
3. Objectives
Cut main cabinet panels oversize by ¼” to ½” to allow for trimming
4. Method
Ruled dimensions on board.
Cut long strips first – to be used to make jigs.
Cut back, baffle, top, bottom ½” oversize:
To allow for errors because circular saw isn’t precise (blade housing has play even when locked tight).
To be trimmed to final size when smaller & easier to handle / clamp.
5. Results
All main panels cut oversize
Several 2” wide strips will be used for jigs / bracing
Approximately 4ft x 2ft left from 6ft x 2ft sheet left over – plenty for remaining pieces needed.
6. Lessons learned
Circular saw isn’t precise
Saw sled creates slightly off-set (0.5 mm) cuts even though it was made with the same saw.
7. Next
Cut panels to finished size with circular saw.
Trim saw cuts with flush-trim bit using saw sled as a fence.
Finish paired panels with router using one panel as template for flush-trim router bit.
Cut remaining pieces – braces, ports, jack panel
Make right-angle jigs
Photos:
1. Materials
1 off 12mm ply sheet 6 ft by 2 ft
2. Tools
Saw horses (pair)
Cutting frame
Circular saw
Clamps
Square
Pencil
3. Objectives
Cut main cabinet panels oversize by ¼” to ½” to allow for trimming
4. Method
Ruled dimensions on board.
Cut long strips first – to be used to make jigs.
Cut back, baffle, top, bottom ½” oversize:
To allow for errors because circular saw isn’t precise (blade housing has play even when locked tight).
To be trimmed to final size when smaller & easier to handle / clamp.
5. Results
All main panels cut oversize
Several 2” wide strips will be used for jigs / bracing
Approximately 4ft x 2ft left from 6ft x 2ft sheet left over – plenty for remaining pieces needed.
6. Lessons learned
Circular saw isn’t precise
Saw sled creates slightly off-set (0.5 mm) cuts even though it was made with the same saw.
7. Next
Cut panels to finished size with circular saw.
Trim saw cuts with flush-trim bit using saw sled as a fence.
Finish paired panels with router using one panel as template for flush-trim router bit.
Cut remaining pieces – braces, ports, jack panel
Make right-angle jigs
Photos:
Last edited by LankyJohn on Sun Feb 11, 2024 3:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
JPbass
Re: Simplexx 1x12 Build - Woofer only
Got my popcorn 
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Re: Simplexx 1x12 Build - Woofer only - Day2
S12 Build - Day Two
1. Materials
Parts from day one: top, bottom, two sides, back, baffle.
PU Glue
2. Tools
Saw horses (pair)
Cutting frame
Circular saw
Hand plane
Brad nailer – 18g 25mm brads
Clamps
Square, pencil, knife etc.
3. Objectives
Cut main cabinet panels to size
Refine edges.
4. Method
Cut parts to size with saw.
Planed edges with a hand plane (easier, quicker & quieter with hand plane than the router).
Baffle cut to nominal size. Needs trimming to a slack fit to allow for glue up.
5. Results
Cabinet glued & pinned
6. Lessons learned
PU glue is fierce. Cures quickly. Oozes all over the place from the nozzle (Bill tells you this).
Read plans carefully – don’t glue panels incorrectly, like I did (top and bottom must overlap the sides), so that you have to undo your work before the glue cures & re-do it.
Brad nailer is essential.
7. Next
Shape & fit baffle to allow for glue.
Cut back to size, make & fit braces etc.
Cut port pieces (shape edges with 45º chamfer bit),
Order parts: La Voce driver, recessed jack plate, 2 off Neutrik Speakon 4-pole sockets
Speaker grille
Feet
Strap handle
Cab paint
1. Materials
Parts from day one: top, bottom, two sides, back, baffle.
PU Glue
2. Tools
Saw horses (pair)
Cutting frame
Circular saw
Hand plane
Brad nailer – 18g 25mm brads
Clamps
Square, pencil, knife etc.
3. Objectives
Cut main cabinet panels to size
Refine edges.
4. Method
Cut parts to size with saw.
Planed edges with a hand plane (easier, quicker & quieter with hand plane than the router).
Baffle cut to nominal size. Needs trimming to a slack fit to allow for glue up.
5. Results
Cabinet glued & pinned
6. Lessons learned
PU glue is fierce. Cures quickly. Oozes all over the place from the nozzle (Bill tells you this).
Read plans carefully – don’t glue panels incorrectly, like I did (top and bottom must overlap the sides), so that you have to undo your work before the glue cures & re-do it.
Brad nailer is essential.
7. Next
Shape & fit baffle to allow for glue.
Cut back to size, make & fit braces etc.
Cut port pieces (shape edges with 45º chamfer bit),
Order parts: La Voce driver, recessed jack plate, 2 off Neutrik Speakon 4-pole sockets
Speaker grille
Feet
Strap handle
Cab paint
JPbass
- Bill Fitzmaurice
- Site Admin
- Posts: 28916
- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm
Re: Simplexx 1x12 Build - Woofer only
I hope you didn't glue the baffle in before cutting the driver hole, and the port holes if you're going to port, which you must with a low Qts driver.
Re: Simplexx 1x12 Build - Woofer only
Thanks Bill.
No glue on the baffle yet - just a friction fit, to help support the cab geometry while the glue cures.
Need to cut the driver hole, port corners & trim to give relief to allow for glue without scraping too much off.
No glue on the baffle yet - just a friction fit, to help support the cab geometry while the glue cures.
Need to cut the driver hole, port corners & trim to give relief to allow for glue without scraping too much off.
JPbass
Re: Simplexx 1x12 Build - Woofer only
How did you make sure the ooze out from curing glue did not permanently glue your baffle in place while it supports the cab geometry? I'm starting a S10 soon and intend to cut the port corners first for this reason.
-
- Posts: 8538
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: Simplexx 1x12 Build - Woofer only
Or, just use these......I've got 4 of 'em that I made from scrap and have been using for almost 15 years. Corners are square every time....
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Re: Simplexx 1x12 Build - Woofer only
I removed the alignment strips that were tack-nailed to the edges of the top & bottom of the cab, before the glue had cured enough to stick them on (less than 3 minutes), then scraped away any internal ooze-out & tapped in the baffle.
HTH
JPbass
Re: Simplexx 1x12 Build - Woofer only
That's a great idea - more clamps ordered (one can never have too many clampsBruce Weldy wrote: ↑Mon Feb 12, 2024 7:07 pmOr, just use these......I've got 4 of 'em that I made from scrap and have been using for almost 15 years. Corners are square every time....
052410 Subs3.JPG
DSCF1745.JPG

JPbass
Re: Simplexx 1x12 Build - Woofer only
Progress update after days 3,4& 5 (not complete days. Few hours here & there.) Been busy with life - rehearsals, organising gear etc.
S12 Build
Days 3,4 & 5 (Condensed progress report)
1. Materials
Parts from previous days.
PU Glue
2. Tools
Saw horses (pair)
Cutting frame
Circular saw
Hand plane
Hand drill /bits
Router / bits
Brad nailer – 18g 25mm brads
Clamps
Square, pencil, knife etc.
3. Objectives
• Cut back to size, make & fit braces etc.
• Cut port pieces (shape edges with 45º chamfer bit),
• Order parts:
◦ La Voce driver
◦ recessed jack plate
◦ 2 off Neutrik Speakon 4-pole sockets
◦ Speaker grille
◦ Feet
◦ Strap handle
◦ Cab paint
4. Method
• Cut back, port pieces & braces to size with saw. Routed 45º chamfer on port pieces.
• Planed square edges with a hand plane (easier, quicker & quieter with hand plane than the router).
• Cut baffle to nominal size: trimmed & planed to a slack fit to allow for glue-up.
Obtained parts: driver, jack plate (Blue Aran, UK) handle & feet, Speakon connectors (Penn Elcom, UK). Bolts / nuts (M5, M6) for feet; machine screws / nuts for Speakon connectors (M3) obtained locally.
• Routed baffle aperture:
◦ Drilled a 6mm hole (in the 6mm thick temporary router “table” at the radius distance from the appropriate edge of a 6mm straight router bit.
◦ Drilled a 6mm hole in the centre of the baffle aperture
◦ Fastened baffle to a piece of scrap backing 12mm ply using double sided tape: making sure centre waste portion & baffle will remain glued to the backing piece when cut.
◦ Drilled attached backing through baffle centre hole with same 6mm bit.
◦ Removed bit & inserted it in the hole in the router table.
◦ Adjuster router plunge/depth to give enough travel to cut through baffle, but not the backing.
◦ Placed baffle / backing sandwich on drill-bit pivot & cut the baffle aperture.
• Glued / pinned all parts (baffle / port pieces / braces) in place. Used brad nailer with spacing scrap to facilitate easy(ish) removal of nails near radius corner edges.
• Removed nails after 24 hours
• Sanded cabinet & rounded corners
• Installed & wired driver, jack plate, feet, handle
• Tested cab. per instructions – no leaks. Been too busy to run it with 30Hz tone.
Needed to sort amplifier(s).
• Ordered grille (www.speakergrills.co.uk ) and cover (https://www.hotcovers.co.uk/) Tuff Cab speaker paint (Blue Aran, UK)
5. Results
• Cabinet functionally complete
• Took it to band rehearsal – excellent – clearer, louder for same input with more extension than existing commercial sealed 1x12 (as expected / anticipated.
6. Lessons learned
• Use off-cut from routing speaker aperture as a protector when fastening speaker.
• Clamp port pieces firmly to prevent any movement when nailing.
7. Next
• Remove driver, handle, jack plate, feet.
• Paint baffle & port interiors matte black spray paint (Amazon)
• Paint cabinet with TuffCab paint & rollers
• Allow to dry & refit parts
• Print & fit BF logo on baffle (so it is protected)
• Obtain / make stand-off mounts for baffle
• Mount / fit baffle
Pics:
Baffle routed Jack plate in back
Baffle, internals/braces (not in order of construction)
Showing as much of wadding as possible
Cabinet front
S12 Build
Days 3,4 & 5 (Condensed progress report)
1. Materials
Parts from previous days.
PU Glue
2. Tools
Saw horses (pair)
Cutting frame
Circular saw
Hand plane
Hand drill /bits
Router / bits
Brad nailer – 18g 25mm brads
Clamps
Square, pencil, knife etc.
3. Objectives
• Cut back to size, make & fit braces etc.
• Cut port pieces (shape edges with 45º chamfer bit),
• Order parts:
◦ La Voce driver
◦ recessed jack plate
◦ 2 off Neutrik Speakon 4-pole sockets
◦ Speaker grille
◦ Feet
◦ Strap handle
◦ Cab paint
4. Method
• Cut back, port pieces & braces to size with saw. Routed 45º chamfer on port pieces.
• Planed square edges with a hand plane (easier, quicker & quieter with hand plane than the router).
• Cut baffle to nominal size: trimmed & planed to a slack fit to allow for glue-up.
Obtained parts: driver, jack plate (Blue Aran, UK) handle & feet, Speakon connectors (Penn Elcom, UK). Bolts / nuts (M5, M6) for feet; machine screws / nuts for Speakon connectors (M3) obtained locally.
• Routed baffle aperture:
◦ Drilled a 6mm hole (in the 6mm thick temporary router “table” at the radius distance from the appropriate edge of a 6mm straight router bit.
◦ Drilled a 6mm hole in the centre of the baffle aperture
◦ Fastened baffle to a piece of scrap backing 12mm ply using double sided tape: making sure centre waste portion & baffle will remain glued to the backing piece when cut.
◦ Drilled attached backing through baffle centre hole with same 6mm bit.
◦ Removed bit & inserted it in the hole in the router table.
◦ Adjuster router plunge/depth to give enough travel to cut through baffle, but not the backing.
◦ Placed baffle / backing sandwich on drill-bit pivot & cut the baffle aperture.
• Glued / pinned all parts (baffle / port pieces / braces) in place. Used brad nailer with spacing scrap to facilitate easy(ish) removal of nails near radius corner edges.
• Removed nails after 24 hours
• Sanded cabinet & rounded corners
• Installed & wired driver, jack plate, feet, handle
• Tested cab. per instructions – no leaks. Been too busy to run it with 30Hz tone.
Needed to sort amplifier(s).
• Ordered grille (www.speakergrills.co.uk ) and cover (https://www.hotcovers.co.uk/) Tuff Cab speaker paint (Blue Aran, UK)
5. Results
• Cabinet functionally complete
• Took it to band rehearsal – excellent – clearer, louder for same input with more extension than existing commercial sealed 1x12 (as expected / anticipated.
6. Lessons learned
• Use off-cut from routing speaker aperture as a protector when fastening speaker.
• Clamp port pieces firmly to prevent any movement when nailing.
7. Next
• Remove driver, handle, jack plate, feet.
• Paint baffle & port interiors matte black spray paint (Amazon)
• Paint cabinet with TuffCab paint & rollers
• Allow to dry & refit parts
• Print & fit BF logo on baffle (so it is protected)
• Obtain / make stand-off mounts for baffle
• Mount / fit baffle
Pics:
Baffle routed Jack plate in back
Baffle, internals/braces (not in order of construction)
Showing as much of wadding as possible
Cabinet front
Last edited by LankyJohn on Wed Mar 13, 2024 12:25 pm, edited 2 times in total.
JPbass
Re: Simplexx 1x12 Build - Woofer only
Forgot to add - glued T-nuts into driver-mounting blocks
Works very well with other sealed cabinet
Works very well with other sealed cabinet
JPbass
Re: Simplexx 1x12 Build - Woofer only
I have that 12" GK extension cabinet as well.
I predict you will notice a considrable difference between the two..
I predict you will notice a considrable difference between the two..
Re: Simplexx 1x12 Build - Woofer only
Thanks. Yes. Definitely very different beasts, but they do work well together
JPbass
Re: Simplexx 1x12 Build - Woofer only
Paint & rollers have arrived today - waiting for grille & matte black spray for baffle & ports
JPbass