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As predicted it’s great!

It is a step up from my t-line in terms of output and it blends into my front stage better too, that surprised me about it. I am currently using same sub from the t-line, Image Dynamics ID8 dual 2 ohm voice coil version. FS is lower than requirements so I don’t know how much of a compromise that is. I have it standing up against the back seat so still have access to spare tire. Horn to passenger side. Tuba has to side to side to fit the car.

It’s running off of the factory Ford Sony amp. I did replace the amp with a Ford/Sony “AA” version, and crossed over the tuba at 70hz with a shallow drop off. If I understand correctly horns increase the impedance? -so it is actually ‘only’ seeing 35 watts total. The amp has bass limiter at 25% volume, it does not reduce bass just stays the same level from 25-100% and can be taken to max volume with no audible problems, though will never really go that high for me, but nice to know it. I have a loud car and am building a SQ car, so I won’t be abusing the tuba at all.

Tuba sounds great with my test music. No interest in tones for me. To my ears it sounds wider band than my t-line. I wonder how high up in frequency it plays with the crossover at 70/6db. It goes audibly deeper than my t-line.

The only deviations from the plans are I did bracing in a 6” deep horn, and a sheet of sound deadener in the sub chamber. Neither are necessary but this is my first time working with 1/2” birch vs 3/4”. I did 2 layers of Granotone on the outside; Then a custom grille with LED lighting to protect the sub.

I won’t need an additional amplifier as I am satisfied with it as is. Can always try a few more 8”s that I have but the ID8 is best of them in terms of Bills required specs with exception of the Fs being too low. The Ford amp is two 2 ohm sub channels.

Thanks to everyone for all your patience and advice and huge thanks to Bill for sharing his designs (and putting up with us car audio folks!) Now I have to get back to work on my infinite baffle build; another first for me!

Very Glad to have truck tuba in my daily car!

Glad it worked out for you. As for the sound deadener, if it needed it the plans would say so. Car doors need to have added mass to control vibrations because they can't be braced. Properly braced cabs don't need added mass, and they don't need to be made from 3/4" material. 1/2" with even minimal bracing is as vibration free as 1" without bracing. I don't settle for that. For the most part my bracing schemes make 1/2" work as well as 2" without bracing.

PTCary, thanks for your review! When I first got my AT going, I used an off-spec 8" auto door speaker, and was pleasantly surprised. After a few months, I got the MCM driver and an Alpine 150w sub amp and was thrilled. Hopefully, you will get to enjoy your TT for a long time!

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Thu Sep 28, 2023 10:14 am Glad it worked out for you. As for the sound deadener, if it needed it the plans would say so. Car doors need to have added mass to control vibrations because they can't be braced. Properly braced cabs don't need added mass, and they don't need to be made from 3/4" material. 1/2" with even minimal bracing is as vibration free as 1" without bracing. I don't settle for that. For the most part my bracing schemes make 1/2" work as well as 2" without bracing.

Thanks Bill!
I had leftover deadener from doing the rest of the car. I have always braced my other enclosures, even though plans did not call for it, I figured it would not hurt.

Day 2 working through my test songs and I am really happy with tuba!

Tom Smit wrote: ↑Thu Sep 28, 2023 10:12 pm PTCary, thanks for your review! When I first got my AT going, I used an off-spec 8" auto door speaker, and was pleasantly surprised. After a few months, I got the MCM driver and an Alpine 150w sub amp and was thrilled. Hopefully, you will get to enjoy your TT for a long time!

Thanks Tom,
I have been reading every auto and truck tuba post that I could find for past several months. Truck tuba just fits my car better for me by allowing better access to spare tire without having to come out of the car. Sacrificed some rear visibility but car has a rear camera.

I had my eye on an Audio Control 175w amp but now think I won’t need it. With an external amp that would open up driver choices for me, including the MCM. There will always be the curiosity of 10” drivers, too. I kinda prefer 8”s though. Gonna leave things as is while I work on my other project car, can always add an external amp and swap sub later down the road.

PTCary wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2023 5:51 am Sacrificed some rear visibility but car has a rear camera.

The rear view mirror in my BMW might as well not be there for all the good it does. I installed one of these:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0855GMKMD/re ... F9kZXRhaWw
The view is wider than what I can see through my side view mirrors. It has front and rear view cameras, with recording capability, so it does the job of a dash cam as well. You can even use it as a rear view camera with parking guide lines if your car isn't equipped with one. I highly recommend it. The cable length is twice what you need, but it's easy enough to cut and splice to get rid of the excess.