Previous discussion wrote:...that driver will be displacement limited to 95 volts. Using the equation V × V ÷ Ω = Watts, you'll need an amplifier capable of at least 1100 honest watts per channel.
That's the myth of underpowering. viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1886im a newbie and afraid i'll blow something using too weak amp
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=19292Also, bridging?
Oh, no no no no no... I'm still very much a grasshopper. But, thank you. I know just about enough to see the scope and vastness of how much I don't know. I'll take the compliment though.
Bill is right. In most venues the optimum placement for a subwoofer is off to one side or the other, pushed back into a corner or wall loaded. The frequencies that subs are used for are non locatable. You can hear them, but you can't tell where the subs are or where the sound is coming from. So, the sub wont sound like it's in the corner, even though it actually is in the corner. With your eye's closed, if you can tell where a subwoofer is in a room, it's either crossed over too high or (more times than not) it's undesirable harmonics or distortion you're hearing in the frequency range that we're capable of locating. Well designed horn loaded subs don't typically have that issue.I've read that using it as a sub i shouldnt go above 120 hz, am i wrong or from your resp. would i be able to use it up to 200 or so to support tops?
Build your cab as wide as you're able to transport. If you can transport a full 36" wide T48, build a 36" T48. Following the placement rules, you may find a 2nd cab is unnecessary for an indoor venue of 150. Although, more is nearly never a bad thing. While obviously not optimal, I don't think you'd have any trouble mixing drivers. Could be some minor phase differences, but not likely enough to do more bad than good.mixing elements and v-coupling? Since im on a budget and this driver i bought raised 40% in price the week after i bought it im looking for cheaper alternatives when i Will build a second cab and wonder if it is bad to mix
That amp should work well bridged in this application. However, you absolutely need to get a signal processor with a brick wall limiter you can set to keep your driver safe. Behringer DCX2496, dbx Driverack, Ashly Protea... something along those lines. Lately, the Driverack has been the go-to recommendation and reportedly they're fairly easy to find secondhand for less than $200. Beyond protecting your drivers, these units have crossovers, EQ, and a bunch of other useful audio tools incorporated in them and are a fantastic value.Also, bridging? I have a work zenith AB 1300 amp, it gives 1000w bridged in 8ohm..
if i'm guessing right, all depending of how Hard i'll run it?No, you don't need the crossover if you get a Driverack. It has the crossover, limiting, EQ, and more all in 1 rack space. There are amps with proper limiting, crossovers, and EQ - but they are very expensive. Cheaper Amps that say they have a built in limiter WILL NOT protect your subs. Those limiters protect the amp from thermal breakdown.
I'm new to this game as well. Built a few of Bill's designs so far, loved every one.Camillo wrote: ↑Wed Jun 08, 2022 10:07 am Ah, i see! Thank you! I Will check that dbx then but i'll still need the crossover for the whole system i guess.. Since i might get a new amp, are there amps, with an equal to the dbx driverack, limiter integrated?
But i am looking a little bit at Bills other plans to see if i find something there that fits better.
If you can send it back....do it. The 260 is an old model that is hard to program from the front panel. There's is a computer interface that's easier, but you have to have a special cable and even that has to be the right brand of it won't work. I used one of those on an install a while back and even after years of using driveracks, I had to call customer support to finally get it right.Camillo wrote: ↑Mon Jun 27, 2022 8:26 am Hi! Lucky you! Here it is impossible to get a hold of a pa2 in any time soon, new or used but i picked up a dbx 260. It does the job i guess? 70 page manual and a new world to open.. My thought is to run 1500hz/250/120 in a four way, making the subs mono and tops stereo. Any recommendations or video link how to set the limiter and compressor on the 260?:)
Will the 260 do the same job as pa2?
Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Mon Jun 27, 2022 9:27 amIf you can send it back....do it. The 260 is an old model that is hard to program from the front panel. There's is a computer interface that's easier, but you have to have a special cable and even that has to be the right brand of it won't work. I used one of those on an install a while back and even after years of using driveracks, I had to call customer support to finally get it right.Camillo wrote: ↑Mon Jun 27, 2022 8:26 am Hi! Lucky you! Here it is impossible to get a hold of a pa2 in any time soon, new or used but i picked up a dbx 260. It does the job i guess? 70 page manual and a new world to open.. My thought is to run 1500hz/250/120 in a four way, making the subs mono and tops stereo. Any recommendations or video link how to set the limiter and compressor on the 260?:)
Will the 260 do the same job as pa2?
As far a a 4 way system...it's really unnecessary. Tops have no problem going down to 100hz and subs can handle up to that. So, why add additional processing, amps, phase problems, etc. Remember.....just because you can, doesn't mean you should.
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