BillFitzmaurice.info

After drawing the lines on layout diagram one and two, do the half inch lines go on the inside or outside of the points drawn?

To the outside. To double check it take measurements on the side in the Sketchup model.

thank you!
Another one.. At 20" width, singe 12" driver, is this considered a wide cab? Trying to determine if i need panel 7.

EDIT: read the plans .... "A narrow cab is one made at the minimum width, wide is anything wider"

J_Dunavin wrote: ↑Sat Apr 16, 2022 5:41 pm thank you!
Another one.. At 20" width, singe 12" driver, is this considered a wide cab? Trying to determine if i need panel 7.

EDIT: read the plans .... "A narrow cab is one made at the minimum width, wide is anything wider"

Researching your question in the plans just further confirmed my belief that the old T39 plan was easier to build. Of course, if you use the Lab, you have to use the new plan.....too bad that the Neo drivers went sky-high back then and necessitated the new plan.

The old ones are purtier too.....

Lucky for me we have a really good group to answer questions

Cut the sides, all internal panels to width, and baffles.

I think I made a mistake
Looking in this thread the driver is sitting down in panel 2. I made panel 2 and the backing plate the same dia.
Do I need to take a router so the 3012 sits down on the backing plate?

Bill, maybe you could tell me what the implications are if this does not sit down a half inch? Will the brace on the door interfere with the driver? Or does it mess up the displacement at all?

Example from this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=25327

What we’ve got currently…
Is this wrong?

Sorry, but, yes, it is wrong. A fix would be to do the router trick that you were thinking of. Perhaps, you could put a support plate under the backing plate and pin a couple of layers on it to raise the level and thus give the router something to rest on.
All the best to you, in regards to the recovery.

Yes, the driver should be inset into Panel 2. The main effect will be to reduce how wide the brace on the access cover can be made. I wouldn't say it's a critical error, but fixing it would be best, which would require a deft hand with a router.

Thank you Bill for the quick response.
I’m going to give it a go, of which most I can do with the router on the face, except for the top 1/3 of the arc.
Tom you have a good idea there. I’ll have to cut and clamp a board the same height as panel 1. I did check, my handheld router will just have enough depth.
This is going to have to be surgical precision.

Some further progress tonight….

I still need the mouth brace but got the rest put together
A shot before I closed up the side.

Yeah, it's almost a shame to have to close 'em up.....nobody can see all the work that went on inside. I feel the same way about duratex......I love that pretty sanded wood, but ya gotta' cover it up.

Speaking of the pretty wood, I should emphasize how much nicer it is to work with Birch. Most of my previous builds have utilized ACX plywood from menards.
Birch is so much more stable, consistent, cuts nicer, and takes Brads from the nailer better.

J_Dunavin wrote: ↑Fri Apr 22, 2022 11:40 am Speaking of the pretty wood, I should emphasize how much nicer it is to work with Baltic Birch. Most of my previous builds have utilized ACX plywood from menards.
Baltic Birch is so much more stable, consistent, cuts nicer, and takes Brads from the nailer better.

Fixed it for ya.