Another duratex question

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EW
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Joined: Sun May 14, 2006 10:44 am

Another duratex question

#1 Post by EW »

Hey all! for you duratex guys out there, how well does it hide boo-boo's compared to carpet/tolex? I have some slight issues with mismatched joints (all at or less than 1/16th) & wondered if the textured finish would hide some of this, or is there some quality time with a sander in my near future? Thanks!

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MYork
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It's pretty thin

#2 Post by MYork »

I guess that depends on how you apply the Duratex. With a roller, it is pretty thin. It's a nice finish, but doesn't cover much up. I would imagine sprayed-on will hide more. Better off sanding IMHO. MY

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SoundInMotionDJ
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#3 Post by SoundInMotionDJ »

A very old trick for preparing wood for stain is to raise the grain. The process is to:

1) Sand with 100 grit.
2) Wet the whole structure - use a spray bottle, or a wet sponge. Let dry overnight.
3) Sand with 120 grit.
4) Repeat Step 2.
5) Sand with 150 grit.
6) Remove any sanding dust.
7) Stain.

Stain is a lot less forgiving than paint. But, if you're planning to pain, Steps 1-3 would still be a good idea.

--Stan Graves
10 T39S + 10 DR200 + 1 T48

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Art Coates
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Re: It's pretty thin

#4 Post by Art Coates »

MYork wrote:I guess that depends on how you apply the Duratex. With a roller, it is pretty thin. It's a nice finish, but doesn't cover much up. I would imagine sprayed-on will hide more. Better off sanding IMHO. MY
Thin? The Duratex I use is like Jello Pudding! I sand with 40 to 60 grit on the random orbital and then start rolling paint. I know Bill uses a thinned primer coat - but I've always rolled on 3 coats full strength. The increased viscosity of DuraTex is what allows you to get the texture effect, and hides many defects as well.

IMHO, most people use too fine sandpaper when prepping to paint wood - it burnishes the wood and causes it not to accept paint well. A reasonably rough surface has more "tooth" (surface area) and holds paint nicely.

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LelandCrooks
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#5 Post by LelandCrooks »

Sprayed will hide defects as well as carpet will. You can build the coat as thick as you like. It will run, but it takes a pretty deep coat before it does. I still finish to paint grade, but it's really not necessary. Fill and sand the deep spots, only to about 100g, then spray.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: It's pretty thin

#6 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

Art Coates wrote: I know Bill uses a thinned primer coat -
Only when spraying. Rolling it go full strength.

Clinco
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#7 Post by Clinco »

Is there any value to treating interior wood parts (DR250) before the final assembly, e.g. polyurethaning everything inside before mounting drivers? Here in AZ the humidity can have huge swings, and my guess is, this would reduce wood stress. But would such a treatment have any effect on sound quality?

Thanks --

-- Paul

chad
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#8 Post by chad »

Carpet is a lot more durable but takes more time and if you have cats it will get torn apart :x Duratex is super easy to use and touch up and looks awesome if you are a good woodworker. Duratex can get a pitchers of beer spilt on it with no ill effects, where one beer spilt on a carpeted unit might stink pretty good. Duratex is the easiest way to get a professional finish and the easiest to touch up, probably the cheapest too. 1.5 gal got me 4dr250's (2 coats) and 2 wedgehorns(1 coat) with a roller.

Sydney

#9 Post by Sydney »

Is there any value to treating interior wood parts (DR250) before the final assembly, e.g. polyurethaning
I was told that an unsealed surface of wood will absorb moisture and perhaps cause warping - I've seen mold & mildew on the inside of speaker cabs & I live in a high humidity area - SO - I seal all surfaces of all wood projects.

sddj
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#10 Post by sddj »

Wanted to mention what we have been doing with our T30S builds and Duratex.

We are carpeting the cabs, to match our DJ booth and such we are currently upgrading. This is done to match everything in the systems, tour cases, etc... but what we have done is actually use Duratex (1-2 coats) on the finished cabinets... THEN, carpet over top after dried and cured. I know it's time consuming and probably overkill... but if the carpet ever gets spilled on, or cut... the Duratex will protect the wood from warp, or from showing through. Plus, when you carpet it's a lot easier to mend the seams with no "white" woods showing in the seam.

Since I was ONLY rolling, and could not spray it... I didn't like the "slip" that Duratex gives after drying. Was tough the way we pack our trailers with stuff on top of the subs, etc... so I had to go the carpeting route in the final stage.

I also personally like the way Super 77 grabs on dried and cured Duratex for the carpeting. We are also using Duratex inside our racks, and inside our tour cases. It's much better in those locations vs traditional spray paints.

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