Pneumatic nailer and/or stapler

Helpful hints on how to build 'em, and where to get the stuff you need.
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SoundInMotionDJ
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Pneumatic nailer and/or stapler

#1 Post by SoundInMotionDJ »

I assembled a T48 with a friend using screws. I liked the way the screw pulled joints together.

However, since pneumatic nail guns were mentioned, I'm defiantly going to have mine out for any future projects.

I also have a pneumatic stapler. It will shoot 1/4" wide staples up to 1-1/4" long. I'm wondering if staples would be a better choice in general for holding the parts together while the glue cures.

Would staples be a better choice with some of the thinner materials used in the DRs? Any thoughts?

--Stan Graves
10 T39S + 10 DR200 + 1 T48

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Tim A
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#2 Post by Tim A »

Try it and see. The stapler should work fine, although it has to countersink when you drive it or you'll end up with a lot of ugliness for a painted or Duratex finish.

I use a brad gun except on parts that get bent. I use screws on those. The brads just won't hold, the heads pull through the material.

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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#3 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

I use brads for everything except bent parts. You can use staples on the 1/4" sheaths of DRs, but not the 1/8", they go right through it, screws are still the only option there. I also use screws on the second side of Titans and Tubas in the middle of the side, to pull it together, but around the perimeter I use brads, using clamps to pull the side tight first.
Last edited by Bill Fitzmaurice on Wed Mar 28, 2007 7:36 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Harley
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#4 Post by Harley »

I bought a pneumatic 16g brad nailer. It was supposedly the best of the Chinese brands that the hardware store had and I hadn't made my mind up if it was going to be useful or not.

Well, 6 mths later I've found it's almost indespenable but the nailer is absolutely stuffed! I have to buy a new one tomorrow!

Although I can return it to the shop and get a replacement, the replacement will be the same shitty make and another 6 mths of frustrating malfunction,

So now I'll spend $NZ 400 instead of the original $NZ 160 and get a good quality industrial make.

Harley
ImageSemi-retired: Former Australia and New Zealand Authorised BFM cab builder.

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Art Coates
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#5 Post by Art Coates »

I got the Porter Cable BN125A, 18ga brad nailer. Yeah, its tiny. Well made, inexpensive - smaller brads are cheap too. I figure it's only pinning the panels in place while the glue cures anyway...

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Scott Brochu
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#6 Post by Scott Brochu »

Do you use dados also?
When I build kitch cabs, glue holds the whole thing together except for the back. Is this PL strong enough to hold, without brads. Or is it just to speed up production?
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LelandCrooks
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#7 Post by LelandCrooks »

[quote="BBDrums"]Do you use dados also?
When I build kitch cabs, glue holds the whole thing together except for the back. Is this PL strong enough to hold, without brads. Or is it just to speed up production?[/quote

Pl will hold without brads but will have to be clamped for up to 24hrs. Brads speed up production considerably. They just replace the clamps. No predrilling, no splits. Screws have to be pulled before routering, 18ga brads you just cut.
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